Wallrat

Or coil, or CDI, or I think TORS would do that too or just a wire came undone. Follow all the wires and check for missing connections and get a TORS removal kit if you still have that. If it still won't run, find somebody else with a banshee and swap out coils/cdi to see if that fixes the problem.

That's not exactly what I meant. What I meant was people that insist on making useless post after useless post get called out. This is hardly the first time that old threads have been brought back to life. I can remember more than a few times that an older member will bring a thread back just to say, "remember this one?" or "can you believe this was 2 years ago?". IMO that's cool, it brings back some memories and recirculates some classic discussions for the newer members. But bringing back random ass threads and commenting on them as if they were still a real-time issue gets annoying after about the 5th time in a row. Again, if you have something to add to the thread that's fine, but just posting to say "wow" or something similar seems rather useless to me. Wow, what a fucking dickhead. Oh and yeah I know you don't care how many people think that of you loco...we get to hear that in every other thread that you post in. Wait, maybe you should remind us again cuz you haven't stated it on page 3 of this thread yet.

Hubba Hubba! (edit) I can't believe I misspelled Charlize! What a dope.

Performance could decrease. It might be hard to start. But the only sure-fire way to determine if the problem is worn rings is to use a compression tester. There's a ton of other stuff that could cause the same symptoms as a worn top end.

No I've got 1 more. Last year will be it tho...no more west coast riding after around January or so of 2007. BTW, I'm planning a trip up to Oregon this spring - you down?

I emailed him but still haven't gotten a reply back from him or Jenn. I'll call tomorrow soon as I get out of Jury Duty.

To run HID's on a banshee you will need a battery and a DC conversion. I guess you can sometimes get by with just a capacitor but I tried running a 1.2AH battery this past weekend and it wasn't big enough to get the job done. Hey Justin, Jenn never got back to me. Guess I'll have to send an email to Jeff.

I shut my bike down when it hits 200 degrees. Ideally you wanna run around 145-155 since that's where you'll be most efficient.

No way in hell can you install a pipe and jet kit in under 30 min. It takes a good 15-20 just to remove the tank and plastics to get at the carb. Agreed it ain't hard, but it will take some time to do.

Yes you can swap plug wires with no ill affects.

I'll bet that 1 plug in the back hadn't been changed in a decade.

It has a 2 bike memory. You probably switched to the other bike inadvertantly. Since I only use my computer on the shee, I set my dirt tire reading on bike 1 and my sand tire reading on bike 2.

A long rod crank doesn't do anything for performance. The rods are simply longer to reduce the angles/side forces present. This makes for a more reliable engine. You compensate for the longer rods by either running 795 series pistons or blaster pistons. On a stroker the rod is moved further away from center on the crank. This gives you a longer stroke and more power. You have to accomodate for the added stroke by having the stock head milled, running a spacer plate or extra gaskets, or running stroker domes if using an aftermarket head. You can buy longrod/stock stroke, longrod + stroker, or shortrod + stroker.

Just stick a big vibrator in the chassis. Doubt you'll hear any complaints.

Do I get a consolation prize?

631 is the area code for Manorville, Huntington, Lindenhurst, Islip, Deer Park and Eastern Long Island, New York

I noticed a decent gain in power when I did mine. At the time I only had pipes and filter. Front end comes up a little easier.

Brookie said she didn't want the rugburns on her face. I figure that'll just take away from the discomfort she'd be feeling in her butt. Chili dog = poo + boobie fucking

No Brad. The housing is entirely different to accomodate the internal ballast. Just put your old Torches on ebay like I am.

Umm...pass. I did offer the ol' bulldozer to Brooke tho

You're right this is the internet and shit does get taken WAAAAY too seriously around here at times. But on the otherhand, the reason why the HQ isn't a piece of shit like BlueTraxx is because we don't put up with this kind of bullshit.

the screw on my v force 2 reeds backed out. Luckily it didn't go into the cylinder but it did get loose enough to let the reeds bounce around and destroy themselves. Which is perfect cuz that's a brand new set of petals.

I dunno that i'd want a rusty trombone. That shit would tickle.

I'm on my 3rd twist throttle since I got my shee and this one is starting to act up. I dunno what it is but it seems like most of the ones out there are plastic pieces of crap. The first one I had worked great but then the plastic cam on the inside that the cable attaches to broke. The 2nd one had a plastic body that practically fell apart on the install (I was at the dunes and in a pinch and it was all they had). The most recent one is this big clunky aluminum job that looks pretty hefty, but now its starting to stick at full closed throttle. Does anybody know of a high end, well made twisty?

I'd really like to setup a meeting with somebody running stock lights so I could do some side by side comparison photos. Not sure but I think Justintoxicated still has his stock lights. I'll have to see if he and I can meet up. They had the MR16 HID's setup at their booth at the SSSS, those things were BLINDING! There was definately alot of buzz around the display so you'll probably be seeing these lights taking over the market. I'm just stoked that I managed to get on the first shipment.