Wallrat

I always try to figure out what she's saying. I really think its "Buttercup piss".

NGK BR8ES

Voltage regulator is a little 2" square bastard screwed in under the rear of the seat, next to the larger, black CDI. If you look under the grab bar you'll see it on the right side.

Naw man I'm hardly a pro. I just know enough to be a danger to myself. Once you get that shock valved for your weight, terrain, and riding style you'll be very happy with it.

The post:pic ratio in this thread sucked. I for one think the suicide girls are a welcomed break from the norm. So here's a few I'm taking with me to my island:

I'd prefer the blonde myself. Hook us up with a name Wes!

tranny - after every weekend brake - once/season plugs - as needed carbs - as needed chain - as needed clutch - as needed Get a clymers.

You're wrong. That was me correcting you. Any shock needs to be setup for your type of riding. If you're cruising around the dunes taking it easy and never hitting anything hard, then you want as soft a shock as possible cuz all you're worried about it rider comfort over small bumps. Since the stock shock felt good to you with a +4, I'm guessing this is the type of riding you do. For myself, I bottom out my stock rear on a stock swinger whenever I pull off a decent jump. I'm over the limits of my stock valving. Small chop is hell, whoops are okay, small-ish jumps are okay, big jumps are brutal.

Did you mean octane BOOST? If so don't waste your money. Octane booster is a crock.

Those are good plugs, your jetting just aint right.

The diameter is about the same as the torch lights, but they're a little longer in order to fit the ballast inside. Justin got his in the mail last night, but he's in San Diego for the weekend. Might be installing them on Sunday night. Mine should be here on Tuesday.

Ah-ha! Hellz ya bitches I found it! The real science behind Boost Bottles

I've always been a big fan of black or silver plastics, but it really comes down to personal opinion.

Running the raptor rears with a maier race front would prolly look good. Anybody have that setup?

Problem solved. I'm just gonna drop $150 to get it tuned on the dyno at Wicked ATV. Works out well since I wanted to see what kind of HP I was making anyway.

32:1 is pretty much the norm. For the tranny I run regular old Castrol GTX 10w-30 and change it after every trip to the dunes. Welcome to the HQ

sea level, about 80 degrees, +4 stroker, mild dune port by custom creations, dual 35pwk air strykers w/ dual k&n's, +4 timing, t-5's, v force 2's, Trinity no crossover intakes carbs are sync'd perfectly

I started off at 48p, 165m, 1.5 turns out, middle position on the needle. I've been stepping it down one at a time so I don't think I made it lean. It would barely idle with the 48p.

I'm on 38 pilots, 155 mains, air screws are 2 turns out. It idles great, throttle response off the bottom is perfect, WOT is strong. I just have a nasty bog right smack in the middle. I moved the needle from middle to 2nd and it helped, then from 2nd to 1st and it got even better. There's still a bog though.

Whenever I have to explain electrical stuff to people I use water as a metaphor. People understand water, and since electricity is very similar, it usually makes the explainations easier to word. I really do think I understand what you're trying to say though.

Hmm dunno Rat, I aint that smart so maybe I'm just not reading these charts right. Am I correct then in thinking that a CGL on the middle clip is the same as my CEL on the 1st clip?

Use a measuring tape rather than just eyeballing it. You want a little bit of toe-in for stability. Most likely you're either toed out or your wheels are straight which causes high speed instability. I'm really not sure how much toe-in you need, so try an inch narrower at the front of the tire vs. the rear and see if that does it. If not try a little more until its stable.

Picture's worth 1000 words...

Try to adjust the left side float to match the right and see if that fixes your problem.

Found out a little from doing some searching: 1/4 TO 3/4 Throttle The JET NEEDLE is the most effective component in the range. Changing the STRAIGHT DIAMETER (D) will change the calibration in the transition range from the SLOW circuit to the MAIN circuit (1/8 to 1/4) throttle. A smaller diameter will make this range richer and a larger diameter will lean this range. TAPER (A) changes are only made if there is a problem balancing the calibration between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle. If the mixture is rich at 1/4 throttle and lean at 3/4 throttle, a JET NEEDLE with a larger taper is needed. If mixture is lean at 1/4 throttle and rich at 3/4 throttle, change to smaller taper. If the calibration is lean from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, raise the JET NEEDLE by lowering clip position, or use JET NEEDLE with shorter length (L1). If the calibration is rich, lower the JET NEEDLE with a longer (L1). Well my throttle is bogging right around 1/2 throttle, which I guess is mostly due to taper and length, with a little bit of influence from diameter. So I think I'm okay on diameter. Maybe BGL? Or should I go with CGL?