Wallrat

I remember somebody telling me that a needle on the 1st clip, is the same as the next leaner needle on the middle clip. Same applies if its on the bottom clip, it corresponds to the next richer needle on the middle clip. So I've been trying to clean up my midrange on my 35PWK's and the CEL needles I have are now at the top (1st position) and although its gotten better, it still bogs. So what's the correct size needle I need to go to? I'm thinking I should go 2 sizes since that would basically mean the bottom position equals where I'm at now. Crap I dunno. Help please!

I doubt you'll even be able to jet it.

If you've got Toomey pipes you could expand your search to include FMF Turbine Core silencers. USFS approved and they bolt right up to the toomeys.

Personally I think your money is better invested in a Clymers.

Hey man pull that shit apart now! I just hadmy screws back out on my VF2's and came to find out that loctite eats plastic. You wanna put the screws in with superglue or epoxy or something, but not loctite!

Well we all know the banshee is fast and will take most machines out there, even if they are modded. I was just saying that those mods are aimed more for low end. Granted some things like timing advance, compression, stroker, etc. are gonna help no matter what kind of bike you're building. Even with a low-end built shee your only competition will be other banshees, well built 250r's, dirtbikes, the 450's and maybe the new raptor.

I understand what you're saying 99, but I don't think wire gauge is the limiting factor in this case. The banshee is only running 14ga or so anyway and not very far so if it was an issue it'd be pretty simple to change it to 12 or 10 ga. What I think is the issue is that since there's no battery to keep the voltage up at lower rpms the amount of juice the stator is producing aint much. It should be plenty to run a couple spark plugs but start throwing in lights and crap and everything is going to dim. Having your lights dim isn't really a problem, but having your spark "dim"? Basically at lower rpms with the lights on the engine would run rough at best. It could definately be addressed, but for more money and more equipment that has to be bolted to the bike. Also add in more parts to fail and having 2 seperate circuits starts to make more sense.

Mine are on the way - got the LAST set for this production run. Any other company and I'd be a little nervous about having the first production run, with Trail Tech I know they'll back it up if there's a problem. Yeah I didn't end up having to be on a jury. My dad and his dad were both cops, so I knew they'd end up dismissing me. The Def. attorney tried to question me about my views of the law since I grew up around law enforcement. He asks me if I make mistakes, if the other people in the room make mistakes, if my dad makes mistakes, etc. Then he says so when your dad puts on his badge that means he can't make mistakes. I told him, this case is for resisting arrest, so pretty much if a cop says you're under arrest and your response isn't "yes sir, I am under arrest" then your butt is there for a reason - no mistake to make. Sucked tho...I ended up being there from 8am-4pm. Blech!

Personally I like the Graydon Proline 2 into 1 setup, but they don't make them anymore. You can still find them on ebay though. I think Trinity or making your own is the only other option available right now. Once you get that done, you just need to buy a carb, filter, and throttle cable. Use a 33mm carb if you don't plan on porting, or a 35mm carb if there's a chance you might get it ported eventually. I like the PWK's but there's alot of good carbs out there. For the filter you could get a clamp on uni or K&N - just match the measurements (I think the 35pwk is 2.25"). Last, pick up a throttle cable for a blaster. I really think a single carb is the way to go if you're not trying to get every HP or riding WOT much. Their simplicity alone makes them worth a slight loss in performance IMO. Jetting is super easy, there's plenty of room in the engine to work, you never have to sync, etc. Plus as an added benefit if you ever have a problem on one side it really narrows down the potential causes. Engine diagnostics are greatly simplified. For better low end and/or trail riding, the best mods are (in no particular order): timing advance more compression lightenned flywheel stroker porting single carb 2:1 pipe Just remember if you do all that your not gonna have a very competitive bike if you try to drag somebody.

Every post should include a pic like that.

Either that or your carbs are way out of sync.

If there was just one coil then you would have less power going to the spark when the lights were on. It probably wouldn't matter at higher RPM's but it could potentially make it difficult or impossible to start. That's the best explaination I can come up with anyway.

But how long did it take and how easy was it to keep it straight? I figure for the time involved + a rather costly repair if you fuck up, its worth it just to drop some coin on a jigsaw. Besides, a jigsaw is a pretty handy tool to have around. If you had one, you wouldn't have needed me for those speaker mounts.

I dunno if you can swap em out but the rear banshee shock actually isn't that bad. The body is good but the internals are pretty cheap. Several companies will rebuild your rear shock for around $400 or so. Do that and you'll have a better rear shock than the yfz.

I would try putting them on a new mount with new bolt holes just below the footpegs. You could go slightly lower and switch to allens or use a small wrench but that would be a PITA everytime you had to remove the bolts. Just watch how far you move from the shifter.

Just streamline?

I'd have to agree that Toomeys makes a much higher quality pipe than FMF.

I can't believe all of you guys have done it with anything other than a jigsaw! I mean I can understand trying to use what you have on hand, but seems like more trouble than its worth when you can get a jigsaw for about $25. I spent a total of about 15 minutes when I cut the stock plastics on the yfz, and that was for measuring/drawing with a dry erase marker, cutting, sanding, and then a quick run by with the torch.

He also said the guy beating the 450's was a kid. Rider weight can be a HUGE factor when racing. A 100lb rider on a raptor is gonna walk all over a 220lb rider on a significantly modded banshee assuming he can hang onto it.

Or instead of spending lots of coin on IMS pegs, you could pick up another set of stock pegs for about $25 on ebay. Then you just cut the peg part off the mount and weld it right behind your current peg. As far as moving them around. I'd just look at making a new mount and welding the pegs to that. Shouldn't be that hard if you've got the skillz. Little dirty but here's what I mean:

Dude don't worry its cake. You kinda gotta jump around in the clymers but it works. Basically you gotta remove the stator and all that crap from the left side, then the clutch, kickstarter, primary gear, etc. from the right side. Once you get there, you just unscrew 10 bolts, and at most, give a little tap to the cases with a rubber mallet while pulling em apart. If you've got the case sitting bottom side down on a workbench, then nothing is gonna spring out. Really the cases are surprisingly empty. All that's in there is the crank and a couple rows of gears that make up the tranny. At that point just pop out the crank (I'd replace it but that's up to you), pop out the tranny pieces, replace the oil seals and pop it all back in. At the very least you should Mic the crank to see how worn it is and if its still in spec. Anyway, then you slather on some yamabond #4 and stick the cases back together. Then its just a matter of doing everything in reverse. If you keep your parts seperate it'll be super easy. I used zip-loc bags and labelled each one with what part it went to. All the bolts, springs, and small parts went into the bag, and then all the bags went into a milk crate. The larger parts are easy to identify, especially if you do the repairs quickly and its only been a day or 2 since you pulled it apart. While you're in there, you might consider replacing: Crank (hell why not drop in a +4) Shift forks if worn all seals water pump impeller clutch if its gettin old modify the shift star get the flywheel lightenned Lastly, drill a hole in bottom of the right side of the case connecting the clutch area to the tranny area, about an inch to the rear of the hole that's already there that is blocked by the drainplug. This will improve oil flow to/from the clutch. Yamaha f'd up by putting the drain plug right there.

I'll never understand why people feel the need to set off fireworks around camp. I know all I want while I'm at the hill is to leave 20 gallons of gas sitting strapped to my truck/trailer back at camp while a bunch of drunk people set fireworks off all around. I'd have no issues whatsoever about fireworks in the dunes.

Do pipes and the filter first, maybe advance the timing, then I'd turn my attention to the suspension. After that, look into porting. Without porting you won't be able to beat the 450 in a drag - dunno about the 700r, but you will be able to keep up just fine around the dunes.

A single carb will give you slightly better low end and throttle response, but you'll lose some on the top. Also a single is easier to jet, doesn't have to be sync'd, and you get away from the crappy stock carbs and TORS.

I still say ur better off buying used. A brand new 06 is exactly the same as one a few years old. The only difference between a 95 shee and the 06 is the color and the brake light and yet the price continues to go up every year on the new shee's. Hmm. Better to get something a few years old that already has some mods and save a little money.