Wallrat

More than likely you got ripped off. Having a stuck float or one that needs adjusting will also cause the carb to overflow. Stuck floats can usually be fixed with a tap from a screwdriver handle, or if not that then just a quick pull apart and cleaning. A float out of adjustment takes a little bit longer but can usually be done in under 15 minutes per carb. Needles/Seats don't wear out too often. It happens but I've been riding offroad toys for 15 years and have yet to replace one.

I don't think I've ever seen a billet grab bar to be honest. Not sure that they make em. Cost would have to be pretty high to cover the cost of material - most of which would be removed.

The shearers I rode were on a 370 w/ a mild dune port. After riding my FMF's/stock porting I couldn't stand them. Sure there was tons of power on top, but it was too punchy and the lowend was almost non-existent. I think if you really like to drag then they're prolly a very good pipe but for my riding style, I was happy to get back on my FMF's. I've since changed to T-5's and I like those even more than the FMF's.

Generally you can get a better APR buying new but if you happen to be a member of a credit union be sure to check out their rates. I'm a big fan of buying used cuz its so much cheaper and easy to fix any problems from the previous owner(s). You could get a piped shee that's somewhat used and turn it into a stroker, replace all the bushings and bearings, new filters, new reeds, new clutch, etc. for cheaper than buying new. If you do go used, make sure you get something newer than a 91 so you don't have to deal with the old j-arms.

Yeah 37w will be fine.

T-5's are somewhat similar to the FMF's your running now. Shearers are a total lightswitch pipe - tons of power but there's nothing before the powerband. For general riding I'd go T-5's all the way.

I dunno yet if I'm even gonna bother with Pisa. Something tells me I won't be able to tear myself away from the sculpture in Florence! Incidentally, is David back on display again?

Dunno your mods but I wouldn't bother with compression or porting until you have pipes/filter(s). After pipes, porting is your best bang for the buck. Keep in mind though if you think you might build a stroker one day either tell your builder or wait on the porting. I had considered porting and was going to do it after the season was over but then my engine blew up and took the crank with it. Ended up dropping a +4 crank in it and was very thankful I hadn't done the porting earlier.

I agree with wesw. You never want to risk running the bike lean even for a few minutes since this can cause serious damage very quickly. I had clamp ons and went to the 2:1 and I think I had to change 1 or maybe 2 jet sizes.

My understanding is that the stock filter is a pretty bad design and can come loose under normal riding conditions. Someone else might wanna chime in here since I've never run a shee with an airbox. I've heard a few stories tho and actually read a magazine review where that happened.

Same thing here. Little bit of heat and those bolts are butter. I used a puller the first time I took mine off but the 2nd time I just used a small hammer, gave it a couple taps, turned 1/4, couple taps all the way around. Came right off.

Locogato had a CR500 Banshee till he sold the engine. Cotton Eyed Joe is currently building a shee with an F4i sportbike engine. Some guy on the net built an R1 Banshee. That's all I can think of right now but yes its possible. I dunno that you'd be able to fit any sportbike engines without cutting the frame, but I think the CR500 fits in with some added motor mounts.

I'm going to Italy in January (Rome, Florence, maybe a jump over to Pisa, and then Venice). Anybody want me to smuggle some parts over?

I ran a degree key for 1.5 years with no problems. As long as you torque to spec, you won't have it strip. But I agree that the timing plate is worth the extra $25 just for peace of mind (I went ahead and ordered one when I got my 200w stator).

I dunno if you're in SoCal but Wicked ATV in Garden Grove has a dyno and they'll tune your bike on it for $150. Might be worth it. But your issue might also be from trying to run a single 38mm on that setup in which case you'll never get it jetted right. But don't expect much low end. I've ridden on Shearer in-frames before and it frustrated the hell out of me - absolutely no power until the powerband.

WWCEJD...for a klondike bar?

Or wiseco 795 series pistons. If its indeed a stroker you'll have either multiple cylinder base gaskets, a spacer plate, or if you don't turn the engine until one of the pistons is at TDC, it will extend 2mm (on a +4 stroker) out the top of the cylinder. Alternatively, you could measure the total stroke. Stock stroke is 54mm so a +4 would be 58mm, +7 is 61mm, etc.

WWJD...For a Klondike Bar?

Have you called RS to ask what his reg/rect is rated for? Sounds like it was a chain reaction - overwattage blew the reg/rect, which than caused the LED's to blow.

I think nyuk would agree that war is obviously a form of trauma. Oh and no scientific evidence? That's a good one. I laughed pretty good! The irony of a christian saying that evolution has no scientific backing cracks me up to no end. I would say evolution is its own faith rather than religion, since 'religion' suggests either a supernatural power or spirtual leader.

I just noticed in that 2nd picture (the one that's all overexposed) you can clearly make out the rusted fuel oil tank about 100 feet away in the upper left corner whereas with the torches its pitch black. Kinda a better indication of how much brighter we're talking.

Yes the lowers are the same.

You're right there are tons of choices out there. I'll try to narrow it down some based on what I know. For A-arms Quicksand is insanely popular on this board. Gary makes a top-notch product and is an HQ member so he's a pretty good bet. Only drawback is it seems that he's been very busy lately so your arms might take awhile. SandDragon is also a member but I've never seen any of his stuff so I couldn't tell ya. For myself, I'm going with Custom Creations. Justintoxicated has a thread about "some new mods" or something over in the images section if you wanna see em. DUNEDEMON also runs those arms. The reinforced heims on those things are bulletproof! CC is a small shop located in SoCal but they turn out a beautiful product at a very good price. Might wanna look em up. For shocks my personal favorite for the money is TCS. Elkas are good as well but I'd still prefer TCS. I think TCS will rebuild your rear for $450 and make it tons better, and new fronts run $850 or so. With that setup you'll just float over everything! I haven't had the chance to try out the newer works shocks but I've heard they're pretty good. The old ones were better than stock, but not much. You've also got Axis and a few other companies that make awesome shocks, but are priced accordingly.

Air leak might be a good guess too. On my PWK carbs the clutch lever on the case hits the bottom of the left carb. If the boot was worn, when you pull in the clutch and it hits the carb, it might be opening up a hole.

Did that 18 years ago. Still don't believe in invisible people. And christianity isn't the only religion with a creator.