Wallrat

You might wanna try upgrading to yfz450 shocks. More than stock banshee shocks but cheaper than works. They're okay shocks, nothing to write home about but better than stock.

I wonder if that's a quality control issue. I'm running a longrod, +4 wiseco h129 crank and the welds were top-notch. I'm a welder so I know what to look for. Maybe its just some cranks aren't done as well as the one I had? Dunno... +4 stroker gives you considerably more HP and torque at all rpm levels. Longrods give you better reliability by decreasing the angle of the rods and reducing side stresses on the piston skirts.

They're like $70 I believe. I've got one as well as one of these: Garmin etrex IMO the GPS is WAY more useful. It does everything that the TrailTech computer does and more. The only thing it doesn't do is keep track of the maintenance mileage/hours - which I never use anyway. The TT is handy, but it won't help you find your way back to camp at night, it won't help you find your buddy that got hurt, or your bike that broke down. Also, the gps can be removed from the bike and used for other things. I've actually got the etrex legend, which I think is discontinued. They've got a handlebar mount for like $7 that works very well and helps waterproof the battery compartment. One of the most useful features is the GOTO mode, which puts a large arrow in the center of the screen. Whichever way you turn, the arrow continues to point to your pre-selected destination as well as displaying 2 other user selected parameters (usually I keep it displaying speed and distance to target). Granted, the GPS is way more useful in dunes, but it works fairly well on trails too.

Another thing is I dunno if the stock clutch can handle a +4 cub setup. You can run 3 heavy duty springs no problem on a +4 with ported stock cyls though.

The older TCS's used to sell for $750, they're $850 now. Whether thats because of a new design or just inflation/profit margins I couldn't tell ya. TCS makes a wicked shock, IMO better than elkas, but not as good as Axis. I'd definately recommend a set of fronts and send your rear shock to Todd to rework for $450.

I dunno how much of the engine you already have disassembled so I'll try to start at the beginning. I'm doing this from memory so some steps might be out of order. Remove the carbs and all the intake crap. Drain the oil Drain the coolant by popping off the hose going into the water pump (right side) Remove the exhaust. Disconnect the electrical Remove the engine from the frame Remove the stator cover Use an impact wrench or clutch holding tool to remove the flywheel unscrew the stator and timing plate remove the sprocket remove the water pump cover I think you might be able to remove water pump stuff at this point remove the clutch cover remove the clutch using an impact or clutch holding tool remove the kickstarter assembly remove the primary gear crap remove the shift assembly stuff loosen the head bolts by turning 1/4 turn at a time starting with #10 and working down to #1 remove the head loosen the cylinder bolts in a criss-cross pattern by turning 1/4 turn at a time remove the cylinders pull out the piston retaining pins push the needle bearings out of the pistons remove the pistons loosen the case bolts 1/4 turn at a time counting down (i think there's 12 or 14) try pulling the cases apart, you might need to TAP the cases with a rubber mallet. lift the top case half off remove the crank I think that's pretty much it. Make sure you put all the individual parts into labelled baggies.

Cubs are really nice if you wanna go that route. Really there's no downside to running cubs vs. ported stock cyls. The only drawback you might say is you might have to run a longer swingarm to handle the extra ponies. For some terrain this isn't a problem, but you will lose some handling and traction. If by Trinity carbs you're refering to these: http://www.trinityracing.com/products/yama...ee35mmcarb.html Those aren't made by Trinity, they're Keihin 35 PWK's purchased by Trinity through www.sudco.com.

I'm a friggin virgin...how much does that blow?

Shaft is bent.

RatBike something er other has that setup - +7 in cubs, w/ cpi's. He's using it as an all around duner but its actually almost too much power. Right now he's running a +2 swingarm but will definately have to get a longer one. What kind of terrain are you riding in?

This is the thread that never ends, yes it goes on and on my friends Some people started reading it not knowing what it was, and they'll continue reading it forever just because... (repeat infinitely)

Yeah mine vibrates but its still pretty easy to read while riding. It only bounces about 10 degrees in each direction so you just look at the middle point of the vibrating needle. Besides, I don't care if I'm running at 160 and its actually 165. I just watch for it to get up to 200 and I shut her down. I actually found a nice digital thermometer that I was gonna get but I've been too lazy.

I'd be amazed if your frame isn't trashed. Subframe should be at least, but it also looks like the front end is a little off. Swapping frames isn't as bad as you might think. You could actually do it in a day, 2 with beer.

Smells like sex to me!

I kinda have to agree. A +4 stroker is a very common route to go cuz it gives great all around power and is still easy to control. Plus then you don't have to deal with getting your cases trenched and a big ass swingarm to keep the front end down.

I ran the 2:1 for quite awhile and the fit was excellent. They offset the UNI filter so you just rotate it until its centered between the pipes. Maybe the older versions didn't have the offset? I have more issues with my clamp ons. I have a big ass ziptie pulling them together so they won't hit the pipes. Problem is that causes the outerwears to rub together and make holes.

That's what roosting is for. Can't complain if your kicking up a shitload of dirt in your own camp.

Hmm...maybe it disappeared during one of the updates. Dunno... Basically u need one of those $10 meat thermometers - just needs to go up to 210F. I think I got mine at sears. Some people have used vacuum fittings from an auto parts store for a T but I tried this and I snapped it. I dunno, maybe I'm heavy handed. Instead I welded up a Y shaped tube. Then all you do is locate the small 3/8" coolant return line that runs up from the head to the upper right part of the back of the radiator. Cut this line up near the radiator and install your T. Use some extra 3/8 hose and some clamps to position the temp gauge in the flow but not restricting it. Lemme know if this makes no sense whatsoever... edit: here's it visually

I 2nd wiseco for everything, v force reeds, and keihin PWK carbs. If you're replacing all that you might want to consider going with a longrod stroker. The cost difference would be minimal. A little extra for the parts, the milling of the stock head, and then porting. wiseco h129 crank (+5 longrod, +4 stroker) wiseco 795 series pistons (to accomodate the longer rods) You'll want at least 33mm carbs, but 35's would prolly be better. You'll need to get porting done to get the most out of the added stroke. Oooo...makes me wish my crankcase was clear:

Clarke and IMS both make oversized tanks. They're about the same price and while I believe the IMS is just slightly larger, the clarke looks alot better IMO. You won't run the tank shroud with either but the IMS is just a big uh...tank whereas the clarke has the side cutouts molded in. I've heard some people having to modify their bar mounts while others did not. I suppose it depends on what bar bend you're running. Rocky Mountain ATV sells both, but they're fairly limited on colors. Here's the Clarke: And the IMS: For duning...First of all I'm assuming you've got paddles. If not, get some - front and back. That's the best mod you can do. After that I'd advance the timing 4 degrees w/ a timing plate ($35 ricky stator) and then get some porting ($200-$600+ depending on what you want and who does it). Next to pipes, porting will give you the best bang for the buck. If you're running hot and think you need some additional cooling you can pick up a couple inline coolers for about $30 each on ebay. If you don't know if you're running hot, you might wanna spend $15 and do the meat thermometer mod (its on here, just search for it).

Yeah I've seen that stuff on ebay too. DUNEDEMON showed up at Glamis once and his damn bike smelled like (I shit you not), strawberries! Craziest thing... Personally I love the smell of Castor 927! The other oils out there are alright, but that 927! I wish they made cologne that smelled like that. My wife feels the same way. 1st time I started the shee after a long rebuild we both sat at the ass end sucking in that sweet smell. Ya, we're weird. Try switching oils a bit. Each one has its own unique smell - some better than others. Just drain the tank down all the way and clean out the carbs each time you switch. Some oils don't mix well with each other. I've never really noticed the smell on me until I've been riding alot. At that point I use unscented baby wipes to clean myself up. Not cuz of the smell but mostly the grime. I've got a pretty sensitive sniffer so I'm kinda wondering if you're starting the bike in an enclosed area or with the bike facing downwind. Either that or its possible that you might have an exhaust leak. I don't think changing the pipes is going to help much if any unfortunately - cept to make the bike a whole lot more fun to ride! I'd definately change that filter ASAP. Clamp ons give slightly better flow but are terrible if you ride through water. Also K&N's don't filter as well as a foam filter, but they are easier to clean. 2:1 is only slightly better with water but it does filter good if you get the UNI. If you ride in water I'd keep the stock airbox and get a filter designed for that - foam if you ride in alot of dust and want maximum filtration, k&n if you want better performance. Oh and man, please get a helmet. They're cheap.

i just woke up so I'm not even going to attempt to figure this one out. But you should be able to figure it out mathmatically by knowing the top speed, tire size, and gear ratio.

I agree. I have yet to get busted for anything on my shee and its technically not legal. Plus I've always got the glass bottles and crap at my camp. Being humble, showing some respect, and a whole heap of 'yes sir/no sirs" will usually get you out of any normal stops. Now if they nailed u cuz ur being a punk...well you might wanna dip ur finger into your tranny real quick for some pre-lube before you pull over.

If you've got a compressor just pick up a die grinder and some 3m loc discs. RNBrad did a polishing write-up awhile back that covered the whole process. I polished both my hubs to a mirror finish in about 3 hours.