snowprophet1

Where in Pa., and who did the mods?

I played w/alky, but I've heard the same thing that enFORCER just said. Expect a lot of bad things to happen. The klotz nitro additive smells nice, but doesn't pack much punch. Klotz makes cozox which, if you mix the 1 gallon of cozox (sounded out as ko-zok) w/4 gallons of premium or race gas, you will have 5 gallons of oxogenated fuel which DOES make more hp (jet up a little for it). Ultra 94 by VP racing fuels is oxygenated also. I know those will give more HP, and I know alky will give more HP, but I can't say how much of a difference there is. Alky probably has more potential because of all it's cooling, etc. The real Nitro is wicked and makes the power, but at a price while learning.

The tiny tach will give you a tach reading and is easy to wire, just like previously mentioned, but I think it gives a reading every second, which you are already through the gear by the time it reads that the rpms are rising! Handy if you are tying to see what it is taching when holding wide open, but not usefull othewise. I have a digatron gauge, which not only reads quick, but you can set lights to blink at you at whatever rpms you want, along w/reading egts, water temps, and mph. Very handy, especially when you download the info on the computer and check your progress. They are a little more costly than a tiny tach (more like 10 of them). If you wanted to find one used, dial yours in then sell it as used you may break even or make a buck or two AND have your banshee all dialed in. (Spending that kind of money, I don't think you'd want to get it muddy!) It taps into your stator wire, and reads pulses/rev, not from the spark plug pulses like some other tachs might. So far my gauge has SAVED me money and time by keeping me from running too lean, or running too hot. Helped me dial in my jets, and helped me get the cylinders running equal. Sorry about babbling about the digatron gauge, but it is the best tuning tool I've ever spent money on.

"Porting" is when you change the highth, width, or shape of any of the cylinder's openings inside. This will change the characteristics of how your motor runs. If done wrong, it can be slower, but done correctly can gain more power down low, more mid, or more top end. Usually on banshees, people don't worry about trying for more power on the low end. You can still make a lot of power w/your stock carbs. You can port it and leave your stock carbs on, then later when you have more $, you can get bigger carbs if you want. You will notice a geat increase w/porting even w/stock size carbs. I'd do the porting first, carbs later.

Everyone else beat me to the choke connector tube, so how about this...after playing w/alky the other day, I grabbed a quick shot of the choke to settle it down, and the rpms actually went up! Didn't make sense. After some other things I'm trying to sort out, I tore into the carbs, and even though the choke pick up tube in the carb bowl (not to be mixed up w/the one between the carbs), will accept either float bowl, one float bowl has the choke tube pick-up line drilled to a spot in the bowl that will actually let it draw fuel, while the OTHER float bowl fits the tube in place just like the other bowl, but is not drilled through to get fuel!. Look at both float bowls from the outside, where the choke tube fits...one has a plugged spot where the hole is drilled to get the fuel to the choke, and the other bowl is not even drilled in that area. If you need a shot of the choke to get you going, and the bowl is switched, you are acutally leaner than if you didn't pull the choke at all. I hope I can figure out my other problems now.

Go with the templates. Low end was at least as good as stock, and everything else really made a noticable difference. You will need heavier clutch springs, which cost about $8 back when I did it. Some things you need to compare to side by side, but you can feel the difference, no doubt. They say it is optional to raise the transfers to their spec, (which I did), and I also matched the case to the cylinders, which helps. I bought about $700+ worth of porting tools back about 12 years ago, and I use them alot. The right angled tool is expensive, but necessary to do it right. The template setup is great if you still want to trail ride and race your buddies. If you want a little more power later, there are some changes you can make later if so desired, but is a little more "aggressive", which makes it a little harder to handle in the trails, but still trailable, just a little nutsier. Do the template job and you won't regret it. The owner of the template place is a great guy, and I delt w/him many times, and is very helpful.

Not to knock any aftermarket heads at all, since I have never had one, but I have always just modified the stock heads, since the more stock it looks, the more pissed the other guys get after buying all the"bling-bling" for their rides, and you beat them and yours looks stock. I have had 5 sets of pipes on my banshee and they never interfere w/the stock head, but some aftermarket heads can rub against certain pipes. I never had overheating problems w/the stock head either. If you are worried, run a little Redline "water wetter" to help keep temps a touch cooler, but don't use it w/anitfreeze...just w/water. There are other coolant products you can get these days too. One guy raced me that had the same color 'shee as me, same pipes, but he had a cool head, reed spacers, chrome this and that, but when we raced I beat him real bad. As far as he knew, I just had aftermarket pipes on mine!

If the seal or gasket between your water pipe or water pump is letting antifreeze by, it could start to fill up your case and oil may come out the overflow, where the water may sit on the bottom. I'd drain the oil out of the case and see if there isn't anitfreeze in it. It may only be getting into the oil after it warms up. After you shut it off, the coolant is still under pressure, possibly letting some by the o-ring or gasket. Also, I've seen somebody put waaaaaayyy too much oil in a blaster once, and the thing would barely rev, and it would piss oil out the overflow big time. This probably isn't the case in your situation, unless you had a young helper who may have put too much in by accident.

I'd be curious to see what kind of power output it has in terms of lbs of fuel per hour compared to a 2 stroke, 4 stroke, and diesel, and also what kind of rpms it can turn before it lets loose! Looks cool.

I use them. I bought them from the same person, and he is very good to deal with. When I switched my stock carbs to alky, I saved a ton of time while watching my egts and adjusting the powerjets. You want to try and keep your placement of the jets and hose lenghts as identical as possible. I started out w/them both opened up all the way, and turned them 1/2 to a full turn in after every 1/4 mile run. They did not run the exact same egts/per same amount of turns from side to side, but when you drill your own mains for alky, that throws another variable in for a chance of error. Once I matched the cylinders egts, and got the temps up, the times got better and better. A real time saver for tuners and tinkerers that know how to read the plugs or have egts to get the best out of their motors. I cleaned up the drilled areas and put a little JB weld around the fittings to make sure they wouldn't move or suck air, and I have not had any problems. A good investment for anyone who does any motor mods.

I'd love to go, but it's 300 miles from where I live. If anything else comes up near Erie, Pa., I'd like to do something fun like that this year. All work-no play sucks.

Once in a while CPI will have a set of pipes with maybe a blem in the chrome or something. I got mine from them at a little bit of a discount. Just ask if they have any used ones or blems. Still not cheap, but they are one of the main pipes people have good luck with. I've got an override tranny on ebay right now starting at $1 no reserve. I wanted to occassionally drag but still ride trails so I got the inframes. I am now addicted to drags, and got a different wheeler to ride for just trails. Nothing flys like a drag banshee!

I never checked out planet sand's site. I'll have to look it up! Thanks.

Unless you've experienced it, I don't think shooting it dirrectly into the crankcase would keep your reeds from opening and getting the regular carb mix. I work with a guy that used to cheat at the sled drags years ago. He would put huge mains in the carbs, and when he hit the throttle off the line, the N2O microswitch would turn on the nitrous (nitrous only...conveniently stowed away in a custom made bumper that plumbed through the frame dirrectly into the bottom of his crankcase!) Cheater! He must have injested the fuel to go with his nitrous shot. Matter of fact, I don't think his motor had reeds anyway, so if there was too much going in the crankcase, it probably would have come out the carbs if it was too much.? I guess it actually is a possibility though. One thing I just thought of...there would be a difference in fuel flow of the nitrous's fuel comparing crankcase injection to "before the carb" injection. The crankcase injection will brobably get a leaner mix because of the crankcase pressure possibly working against the fuel pump pressure. I didn't mean to make it seem like I'm beating up on your reply, (I appreciate your reply). I really would like to hide the nozzles somewhere out of sight, but may just have to do it before the carbs like most of you seem to do, which does work fine. Maybe the the total mix would be better going through the carbs anyway. So many theories...but so little money to do it wrong the first time! Anybody running colder plugs w/nitrous on their banshee?

SWEET! I like the part about still running alky and shooting the nitrous w/the race gas. I found my jets. They are 022's and 026's. Is that a little too radical to start with? It was in a 633cc twin sled, so I just worried it might be a little too strong for a 350? I hear a 30 hp shot metioned occasionally when talking about banshees, but I never heard what size jets that equates to. If anyone knows but doesn't want to make it public information they could pm me! Thanks everybody for the tips! I also like the idea of the clutch switch to disarm! Oh, I forgot to ask...I dialed in on gas, got the plugs colored right, and set my egt lights etc accordinly. Then I messed w/alky starting rich and leaning down until I got the egts the same as on gas. I am guessing if I turn my timing back to stock or a degree retarted w/nitrous, just shoot for the same egts and it should live? (what compression should I have or not have w/nitrous)?

Looking for a TZ. What are the numbers off that bad boy and how much are they? Did you have to put the groove in it for the locator or do they come that way? Thanks!

On a 350 stock stroke motor w/drag porting, I've switched to alky, will be cutting the gears soon, and my eventually try nitrous this year. From a previous sled, I have the nitrous bottle, the fuel pump, the selenoids, and two fogger nozzles w/pills. I thought of tapping some holes in the bottom of the crankcase now while it's apart, but I think the tips of the nozzles would interfer w/the rod. Is there any setups/mounting to hide the nozzles (or whatever can be used on a banshee) that are nice? Can you run alky and N2O at the same time, or blah, blah, blah? If someone with experience could PM me their ph #, I am mechanically inclined, and would like just a little guidence. If I can plan for the future as I am rebuilding everything right now, I'd love to try it. (There are a few non-banshee fans I'd like to punish on asphalt this year!!) THANKS!!!!!! Marc M.

Ditto.

Don't know if you checked this or not, but a kid couldn't get his started so he brought it over, and I checked compression, spark, etc., and all looked good. When I went to check his carbs, the small straight piece of rubber hose that connects the two carbs through the choke circuit was missing, and laying down under the carbs. After I put it in place, it fired right up.

I've seen one with similar mods like yours (but without porting) pull about a 15.8 but w/mild porting you could get into the mid/high 14's. Better have a little bigger tires than stock or a little more gear than stock to run the whole 1/4 though. A 15 or 16 in the front w/22" rear tires got me there w/no problems.

What is that mustang supposed to pull in the 1/4?

Like some others have suggested, unless you look at the whole porting job (exh, transfers, specs) etc, you can't tell for sure if it has been over-ported or just drag ported, etc. My intakes looked similar to these and I have done even more since, and I actually have more low end than ever before (w/the rest of my porting set up at least). If you have the stock carbs, throw them back on for a little more low end throttle response. I put the "UFO" inserts in the bottoms of my round slides, and even though I have raised my exh and transfers, my low end is the strongest it has ever been w/the UFO's in the carbs. I am certain I have more low end and throttle response w/my stock carbs w/ufo's than my 34 PJ carbs, whether on gas or alky. Try the cheap things first. If you ever take off your head and measure from the top of the cylinder to the openings of your exh and transfers etc with dial calipers (in inches is fine), pm them to me and I can tell you if it looks like anything is too far out to be fixed. I'm sure you'll get it running just the way you want it. There are lots of good people on here that are willing to help you.

So...did anybody see that guy "bonchclitstyle" and his cannondale anywhere, or did he not even show?

Yamaha pt # 4H7-16321-02. More surface area than stock banshee. It has more clutch material towards the ID. The rubber 0-ring spacers found in the stock banshee setup are discarded and the clutch material takes it's place. Good trade off!

Has anyone ever put snowmobile cylinders on a banshee? And if so, what kind of cylinders/pistons etc, and was it worth the effort? Somebody bought the family turbo sled the other year and was going to use it for his banshee. I don't know if he was going to use the turbo or the 670 cylinders or the whole motor.