snowprophet1

Anybody?

Does anybody know how I can get ahold of "raxen"? Trying to get some parts from him, but he seemed to fall off the face of the earth! Anybody? Thanks.

If you ever were going to experiment by making a ram-air setup, you would want to make sure you take your carb vent hoses, and plumb them into your airbox. This would make the pressure in the float bowls go up as the air pressure goes up. BUT, if your carbs are not tied in originally, your jetting would be off (probably too lean) if you don't jet up. Example: Polaris snowmobile...carbs tied into the airbox=difference in underhood air pressure has less effect on performance at changing speeds. Yamaha snowmobiles...carbs vented underhood (not to airbox) the underhood pressure does effect it's performance slightly, but jetted safe from factory so as not to have warranty issues. ATVs don't have hoods like snowmobiles covering their motors, but still would be more consistant if the carb venting was tied into the airbox. My $.02

Thanks!

Wow! I'd like to see those dyno sheets. I never thought a curve like that would hurt the top end w/7 degrees advance. Maybe they did their homework when making that timing curve. Thanks for all the help! Marc.

It's probably been posted 100 times before, but where do I find the info on how you mod your stock reed cages? I have a general idea, but want to have the real info before I attack mine. Thanks!

I only had it 2* advanced, but I just advanced it to 4* tonight. I can go more if I have to, but what puzzles me is why does the timing drop off so much the higher you rev it? Although the better the gas atomizes (higher velocity through the carbs) the better the burn, but gas only explodes at a certain speed period. The higher the rpms, the sooner you should be lighting it up (to a certain degree of course). Other factors come into play, but it just seems that the curve doesn't need to retard so much on top end . Any answers are welcome.

On round slide carbs, they fit into the underside of the slide, getting rid of turbulant flow atomizing the fuel better, making a gain of 1 hp per 100cc displacement and increasing throttle response and efficiency. I have first hand experience with two snowmobiles that we put these on, and it did work for sure. As a matter of fact, one snowmobile was an mxz 600 twin, and right off an IDLE, it would take off from under you. I have never come across another mxz 600 w/throttle response like that one. They worked on the two sleds we put them on, and would like to put them on my banshee, but the pilot size requirement is cut in half. I don't know what pilots are available for banshees in this range.

I found the timing curve in the banshee manual, and it really seems to drop off a lot! I advanced my timing a couple of degrees, but it drops off so drasticly, it should probably be re-curved instead of just advanced a couple of degrees?! What is up w/a timing curve like that? (I tried to attatch a picture but can't do it).

I have used UFO's on other machines, and I noticed now they are available for banshees. The thing is, usually you drop your pilot size in half among other things. My dealer knows crap about jetting. The banshees and blasters use those special little pilots unlike other mikuni carbs on sleds, etc. What size pilot jets are available for banshees, and where is a good place to get them? (Also, anybody running UFO's in their banshee?) Thanks!

Thanks for all the good info everybody!

If you are popping like when slightly trying to rev it or at about 1/4 throttle, you may have a piece of dirt in the pilot circuit, or the air screw needs to be opened up a little more. If you open the screw 1/8 turn at a time and that doesn't take care of it, take off the carb, unscrew the air screw, take off the bowl, remove the pilot jet, and spray carb cleaner through everything and blow it all out w/air. If you have it apart this far, it's not much more work to just unscrew that main jet also and push out the needle jet and clean all at the same time. Try a new plug first, for that is so much quicker to do, and plugs don't cost much. If a plug is on it's way out the door, it can pop like that too.

Today somebody told me a low #, say 20 durometer is very sticky but will not survive more than a couple drags or burnouts, because it's like a pencil eraser. I should use a #44 (harder tire) or maybe even a higher number for asphalt. Any truth to that? ? I want something that will last, but work. I will be running a stock stroker, but ported/pipes etc., and of course a wheelie bar like yours (but I'm sure it won't look quite as nice as yours!).

cb67rs1...I don't know whick one is giving me the woody, the picture of your wife there, or that banshee! Nice setup! What size/compound tires are those? Me likey! I can see where the bottom of the wheelie bar mounts, but the top is hard to see. Is it to the frame where the pipes used to bolt near the airbox, or is it on the top of the swingarm where the pivot for the shock "dogbone" is? THANKS!

www.racelogic.com

I did the race logic templates also. This is what you want! I let somebody ride my banshee today, and his is the next banshee I will be porting. It works! I never fouled a single plug since I ported it either! BUT...get the heavy duty springs for your clutch. The very first ride w/the porting, the clutch slipped. I threw in the heavier springs, and WOW! That was a few good years ago, and my clutch finally needs updating for the new pipes I got, but it took lots of abuse and held up a long time. I strongly recommend those templates.

I already have the heavier clutch springs w/the stock plates,etc. Making more power now, and it's time for an update. Besides the lockup clutch, what is the best replacement for the stock dics/plates? I know there are kits out there that don't last, so I want to do it right the first time (lock-up later). Thanks!

Thanks Derrick! What size are they/do you recommend for 1/8 or 1/4 mile?

I have 22" itp holeshots and have no problem running stock rear sprocket w/a 15t front sprocket w/stock chain. The clearance is nice, and I think it actually pulls better w/the 15t. I do have pipes and mild motor work done, but nothing extreme (Yet!)

If I were to try and fabricate an ugly but functional wheelie bar to try out, where is the best place to mount it...to the swingarm only, to the swingarm and frame, or just to the frame? Any tips or ideas or pictures? I can't wait to try more daring holeshots!

I guess the american racer tires are pretty popular for the asphalt, but can someone tell me...are they just a TT tire, or are they different? I wondered if anyone has used the jr. dragster tires that are wrinkle-wall type, and if they have, what are the pros and cons? Sorry for my ignorance here on the tire subject. Somethings I know, and others I obviously don't. Thanks!

Thanks NYUK! I'll be trying your old shearer's soon! If I knew more about setting up for alky I might try that too. What kind of oil/ratio do you run with alky?

Don't do it if you're afraid of going fast! All I could think of is if your jetting was too lean you could burn a piston, but after I hit top speed (and smoking my buddies long before that ), I usually don't hold it too much longer.

I'm going to try and setup for asphalt this year. What rear tires do you all recommend? I would like to find cheap ones of course, but don't know what size works best. When I ask tire stores around my area, they all look at me sort or funny and say "for a 4-wheeler?"!

The race logic templates work great. I also matched the base of my cylinders to the crankcase. You have to tear 'er down a lot farther to do that, but mine was apart anyways, so I just had to do it! Make sure you raise your transfers, which they say is optional, but I did and it is noticably stronger! I raced the same year banshee w/everything else set up identical, pipes, K&N, etc, except for the porting, and mine was definately stronger. You'll love it.