snowprophet1

No. Just at a local drag strip on the outskirts of Erie, Pa.

I'd like to lengthen my stock swingarm for asphalt. I heard +4 works nice because it helps keep the front end down better than stock, but can still use the stock length brake lines? If anyone has done this, where is the best place to cut and lengthen it? If there were any other posts already on this, sorry to ask again. Just tell me where to look. THANKS!

Well, he's already telling people he was right with me at the 1/8. Next he'll be telling everyone he beat me in the 1/4! I guess if you convince yourself, it's true, right? I think after Sunday, I'll have to go for the drag porting.

Right now I have it ported to Race Logic's templates, plus a little extra porting that Race Logic recommended to do for a little more aggresive riders. The cylinders will be carved out a little more radically after next teardown! I must say though, I am extremely happy w/the results of the porting I have. Great for trail and racing (beating) your buddies. If I didn't hear how fast everybody's drag ported banshees were from this site's posts, I would've been happy with what I have. But since banshees CAN go faster yet, why not!!

CPI inframes came today, and my 34mm PJ needles are still on their way! BRING IT ON!

My brother in law, who owns his own atv performance shop and charges big money for his mods, raced me at the local drag strip yesterday w/his cannondale. He always would tell my brother how his quad would eat banshees and spit them out. I think he thought he was going to slaughter me, and I know he would have loved that, but it just didn't go his way. Got him by about 10 mph and 1 full second EVERY run, and he was a glutton for punishment. I hate to say it, but I've just got my hands on some 34mm for Alky, some CPI's, and some good specs for drag porting to do next, in that particular order. If I got him that bad w/my stock carbs and T-5's, I can't wait for him to re-challenge me! I didn't rub his nose in it, but I know he would have if he could have beat me. I'm sure it hurt his feelings. I know he'll be back.

C.C. Specialties has them, but it's part of a porting set, and the 90* piece is not cheap, and although you can buy just the 90* piece, you have to have the motor, shaft, footpedal etc to use it.

If you have the 90 degree porting tool, do it. It helps for sure.

I think you're right nyuk. I should have at least sold them back to you. It wasn't worth the experience selling them. They guy that bought them was from Australlia, even though I had it for sale US only. That turned out to be a total mess. Sorry.

Got to run my banshee today at the strip for the first time on alky. Last time I was there, my best time was 13.91@86mph in the 1/4 (8.3@75 in the 1/8) on 93 octane. Now that I switched to alky, I pissed more people off! I started off rich w/the adjustable power jets all the way open, and each run leaned them until the egt's were similar to the gas ones. All said and done, I hit 13.40@89.6 in the 1/4 and 8.0@79 in the 1/8. A 5.0 mustang GT on NOS only did a 13.8 against me ! I can't wait until my 34mm pj's get here! If I got .5sec/4mph faster w/stock carbs, I can't wait to see what these other carbs do. My youngest brother's Firehawk SLP Trans Am pulled somewhere in the 13.4 range at best so far. I never thought I'd ever get to that level, but looks like his $20,000 bird is going to suck hind tit behing my cheap little banshee! Any guess what the bigger carbs on alky might do for me from here?

Last weekend I went from a best of 14.3@84mph to 13.9@85mph in the 1/4 mile at the drag strip by changing the porting just a little more. 1/8th went from 8.7@74 to 8.3@76. (I ran a 5.0 mustang and he pulled 17.7! ). I hope to be running on alky by the weekend if the weather cooperates and I don't seize it. Being they are still stock carbs, what kind of times do you think I should expect to see by running on alky?

Good pictures! I also got a set of adjustable power jets and just mounted them. I might try and oval bore the carbs up a little just like you said. A little more top end never hurts! Thanks everyone! Marc.

Awesome- Thanks! Can you explain the oval port on the carbs? I was going to bore them but it doesn't leave much before it is the size of the slide.

No, I'm from around Erie, Pa. Not much racing around here as far as atv drag racing goes. I live less than 10 minutes from a drag strip and started messing around during the grudge runs, and want to get a little more out of 'er.

I know most people don't stay w/the stock carbs when switching to alky, but this will be my starting point. 1) I need to know if the alky can flow into the carbs fast enough w/stock gravity feed and needle and seats, or if I need to put on a fuel pump and drill bigger or replace w/a bigger needle and seat? 2) If I'm running NGK B8ES, do I need to close the gap or run a different plug? 3)What ratio do I mix the alky/oil 40:1? Here is my current setup: compression 145psi+, adv 4degrees, ported, stock carbs w/UFOs, 20P, needle clip 2nd from top, 390 mains, twin K&Ns. This setup runs about 1240*F on egts and pulls harder and runs better times than when leaned down to 1375*F. I know the egts sounded high, but probe placement is about 9" from piston edge. Underside of pistons aren't even discolored. Any tips on changing the stock carbs to alky appreciated!!! Marc.

I drilled a hole through my swingarm in a nice spot, where it will pick up all of the 6 bolts that hold the rear sprocket on. The digatron sensor needs something metal to trigger it, not a magnet. Right after I mounted it and tested it, I could see the difference on the charts between wheel spin and slight clutch slippage, etc. I thought how cool it was, and then I realized, if I adjust my chain tension to it's max, the sensor might not line up enough for the bolts to trigger the sensor! Just when you think something through and do a nice job and everything works, you find something you didn't consider! I'll be messing w/my gears again sooner or later for drags, but for right now, its real useful having that speed sensor. I got a remote button to reset for laps, so when I chart out an asphalt run, I can start the chart where the wheel first starts to move, and I can put plots on the graph and hit a button and it will tell me my 60', 300', 660', or whatever I want to see all in one run! Very useful info when trying different gearing, carbs/jetting, timing, etc. Oh, by the way, I sort of figured your temp sensors were as far as you could get them already. I ran a set on a sled that had a Y pipe, and you just get them as far as you can, and figure on the sensors reading a little off. My sled had dual carbs though, so I could tune out some variences. Even on my triple/triple sled, there are spots on the egts that always vary a little. At any given throttle position, there will be a varience between all the cylinders. There has never been one cylinder that ran richer or leaner through all the throttle range. All 3 cylinders have there turn in being the hottest on the way up to full throttle. In your case though, that is a big difference. I might get 25-30*F difference between the probes, maybe a little more at times.

Thanks! Dragbanshee02...I left you a pm.

Long story short, I took 2nd place to a yfz 450 cammed, ported, piped, air, geared, tires, shocks etc. He was doing 3rd gear holeshots, keeping the front end a couple inches above the ground and killing everybody out of the hole (on hard packed dirt, similar to a dirt driveway). I gained on him hard, but he got me by 1/2 length. He said he was topped out, and that if I had another 40' I'd have blown by him (length was 350'). The clutch is grabbing solid, 22" 6ply holeshots on blaster rims, 15/41, stock suspension, T-5s, airboxed k&n, 130 psi, trail ported, 4* advance. The first time I raced him, I had the r's up too much and had to let off the get the front back down. The second time I sat a little more forward, and traded spin for half the lift. I have a rear lowering link, shorter front shocks, chains (to hold the shocks down even lower), and am working on a wheelie bar. I don't want to use the wheelie bar if noone else is running one, in the same class. Should I run smaller rear tires and a different style? Do a 2nd gear holeshot (don't think I can)? Any other tips? Thanks!

Your probes should me more like 7" to 9" from the piston (exhaust side of course) if your 2 into 1 pipes will allow. Your readings will register too low since a lot of unburned gases will be recipricating back and forth that close to the exhaust opening. That won't give you the difference between the two like that though. Try re-checking the grounds for the probes, and if you have the same connectors in the back of the instrument as I do, rotate them a little back and forth to make a good connection. If that doesn't do the trick, switch the two probes (at the instrument first) to see if the gauge is reading incorrectly. If the difference stays on the same probe, switch the probes to the other sides and see what happens. I've used these on my sled and now on my banshee, and have learned a wealth of info from these, especially w/the speed sensor! Awesome gauges! Let me know how you make out. You could actually be scavaging more on one side. Check your reed petals also. ps- how do you move the digatron charts to your posts like that?

Holy crap!

Just curious how the races went sunday at Zinc city drags? What kind of times were the smaller class banshees pulling and at what distances/speeds? THANKS!

After the first year of owning my banshee, I tore it down to give it a checkup. All looked good, but why not go faster? So I ported it w/race logic's templates, and matched the cylinders, gaskets and cases. It (all of it) made a very noticable difference. I don't know if the case matching helped tremendously, but for sure there was a mismatch, so I would bet money it helped the flow. I will be doing a bansee just like mine in a couple weeks, but will not be doing the cases. We'll see apples to apples if it makes a difference. (if the guy ever "shows me the money"!)

Like he said...fun wheeler, but you wont have the power of a banshee. They actually only make 11-13hp, which sounds low, but when they say a pipe gives a 10% increase in power, that's about 1hp. We port ours w/the race logic templates, and that improves it much more than a pipe. If you buy a pipe for a blaster, don't get a DG. They may make decent pipes for other models, but not the blaster. The blaster rides/lands a little stiffer than a banshee too, but it is an all around fun machine, and my brothers/&friend bought 3 new ones in '99 and punished them relentlessly, and they all got more than their money's worth.out of them and are still getting beat on today.

Time to beef up the ol' clutch. Looking for a cheap (used) but good condition lockup clutch, pancake bearing setup, (or that ceramic ball from trinity), better clutch plates. If this is on your shelf not being used, time to free up some $! Let me know what you got and how much you need for it. Thanks! Oh, also looking for some drag slicks in almost new condition cheap for asphault.

I can't make it this time, but would like to try and make it out there sometime this year. Can somebody see what times atv's are running in a banshee class w/stock cc's, ported and piped class? (if they seperate them from the bigger bores and strokers). Then I'll know how much I have to practice to not get my butt kicked too bad! Thanks!