snowprophet1

On the motor, it says right on the cc specialties label "made by the foredom electric motor company".

On my '95, it ran fine until until one day. When it (the motor) warmed up, then ran on 1 cyl for a little bit then quit altogether. If you let it cool down 5-10 minutes, it would run fine again until it got totally warmed up. Although my stator seemed to check good on the ohm meter, I got a used one off ebay, and been running perfect ever since. Once the stator got heat soaked it was weak and wouldn't give the CDI box what it wanted and decided to say F.U.! If you have a local banshee buddy, put your CDI on his and see if it acts up. Good luck. Marc.

About the turbo banshee idea... you don't need an oil pump/oil pressure like you would in a car. There are turbos that don't require an oil line. They have turbos specificly for 2-strokes. I had a 670 ski-doo w/a turbo, and it was a self contained unit. Every so often, you check the oil level, and top it off if needed. It was a very special oil you bought in a little bottle/vile which was clear and poured like molasses, that lubricated the turbo by saturating a felt material "like a wick" which touched the parts that needed the lubrication (sorry, I'm ready for bed and can't quite find the correct words to describe it). Easy.

Cannondale blaze for a trail ride. I think the more I beat on it, the more it likes it ! :baseball_bat: I set the banshee up for just drags, but it got alchohol poisoning last time I took it out, so I have to start putting a new motor together soon. It locked up so hard it split the left cylinder on the inside. My fault. My 'dale is a lot of fun and a nice addition to the garage, but it won't be replacing the banshee for racing. I just love racing the 'ol shee.

I have a set of EGTs on my banshee. I got it dialed in on gas (according to the plug readings), and then just tuned it in on alky by hitting the same egts. I know (first hand) that if you lock 'er up on alky you can really wipe out the motor. I ran alky w/stock carbs on mine the other year (drag ported) w/no problems. This year I made up some triple exhaust port cylinders, and they ran great. When I put on the same alky carbs w/these cylinders, it locked up so hard, it cracked the cylinder and even took out the material between the transfer and auxillary exhaust port! OUCH! I ran 1/4 mile on alky last year and the motor was faster and ran cooler. Just start rich and work your way down. Play it safe, and it will be worth the while. Close up your plug gap to .018" and advance your timing a couple more degrees than you are running on gas (alky explodes a little slower than gas).

The no.1 MC right angle tool is about $335, (which is what I use) and works fine. They have a bigger (1/4" shank 90* tool) for $499 which I don't have, and maybe it might be harder to get into smaller bores, but not sure on that. Good tools, but you have to pay for them. Good control. If you do your transfers yourself, you want to make sure they are angled the same on opposite sides. Take your time and don't get in a hurry and over-do it. Get a set of heavy duty clutch springs if you didn't already.

I've used MANY of John's (Race Logic) porting templates on many different motors. All I can say is nobody is ever disappointed. Best bang for the buck in my opinion!

THANKS!

I put a set of yamaha srx snowmobile shocks on the front of mine, and chained them down lower yet. I used an R6 crotch rocket rear shock (slight modifications) for a nice low and effective suspension for dirt drags/asphault. I have a 16 tooth front and stock rear sprocket for the 1/4 mile, but I am running 22" holeshots. Tire size will make a big difference in gearing. I am laying on the front, wide open holeshots in first gear. Very addictive!!!

It was said that it idles good. IF the idle was set real high, it wouldn't pull through the choke circuit as strong, making it harder to start when cold, but if it isn't idling real high, then that's probably not your problem either. Like somebody else stated already, the float bowls are actually different. One has the passage drilled for the "choke" carb, and the other bowl looks identical, but the passage isn't drilled.

Thanks guys!!!! I guess I'll have to save just a little more $. I will probably get a new basket first. I heard the Hinson basket won't take the most punishment because the bolts are a little smaller then other aftermarket baskets. Who makes/sells a good basket at a good price? That will be my first purchase.

Check to make sure the short tube that connects the two carbs together is still in place. One carb has a choke, the other doesn't. This tube connects the carbs where the choke area is, so when you pull the choke, both carbs get the extra fuel to start. Somebody I know was tinkering w/the carbs and didn't realize the tube fell off down under the carbs. He was so frustrated he was ready to sell it. I took a look and saw the tube missing. It was laying on top his crankcase just under the carbs. I put it in place and gave it one kick and it fired right up. I should have offered him a couple hundred bucks for it before I looked at it! :yelrotflmao:

Will any 10mm crank be ok (cast like the stockers), or does it have to be a billet crank? I started calling for prices, and hopefully I called all the most expensive places already! Any good prices on a decent crank? (New of course.)? Thanks again all of you!

Well, you guys got me scrapping the 4mm setup and thinkin hard about the 7mm and 10 mm cub setup!! Right now I have an override tranny, and stock basket and crank/basket gears. What HAS TO be upgraded to run either or both setups? Will my factory gears hold up, etc? Thanks for your GREAT input.

A 4mm stroker crank= cheap. A 7mm stroker crank=twice as much. Assuming I can trench the case myself to save $, is the 7mm cub setup that much stronger than a 4mm? I weigh about 180lbs, and want to asphalt drag, but will probably dirt drag the majority of the time. I heard the 10mm stroker is better for hills but not as desireable if I want to run 1/4 mile? Which crank/cub setup does everyone recommend for drags?

The 9's are colder than the stock 8's, so that is safe, but the lower the octane, the more chance it will detonate. To fill at banshee tank w/87 octane or 93 octane is not even a dollar differance. I believe it may only require 91 octane. My sticker fell off the tank a long time ago, but it will say in the manual if you have one.

I mixed it at 32:1 ususally. Once in a while maybe 40:1. Alky and gas both. I only used it w/gas to purge it. I just got my triple exhaust port motor together, so I'm breaking it in on cheap oil, not synthetic. Maybe later I'll run it w/gas.

I was thinking of rigging up a selenoid to a motion detector in my garage, so that if anyone tried to break in and steal my banshee or sled they'd get a bright floodlight and a pants-pissing blast to go along w/their side dish of hearing loss. That would be overwhelming in a closed garage!!

I go to a drag strip not far from my place in Wattsburg, Pa. called "Lucky's" or "Lowville drag raceway". Same owner as always, I just can't remember the exact wording. After I make a change in porting or carbs or anything, I'd take it up there on a Sunday afternoon. After the regular race program is done, they have "grudge runs" where kids whoop on their parent's cars and everyone races for $2 a run. Not many people around my area do much w/4 wheelers, so when I pull up to the line everyone watches because they don't expect a wheeler to be all that fast.

My best on my stock stroke ported cylinders (150psi on alky) in the 1/4 was 13.0@93mph w/22" heavy holeshots on blaster rims (stock rear sprocket, and a 15 or 16 in front). I just finished my triple exhaust cylinders and it seems to run identical but on gas w/103psi. Just raised the compression to 174psi and it seems to run good, just that the water gets a lot hotter a lot quicker. Might have to get a little more cooling before I try the 1/4 mile. I could run time after time last year, 123*F on alky, and 149*F on gas after every 1/4 mile pass. If I make a blast up and down my strip in the back yard, it hits 160" quick. Any body ever add an extra heater core or anything for extra cooling?

I never ran it w/that oil. I run that oil, and have very clean pistons, heads and exhaust ports and no ring sticking. I do run that additive w/my SRX 780 big bore w/a different oil. I didn't notice anyting different except when tearing it down for the yearly checkup, there was a light build up of a "powdery-wet" cabon (like the starts of a chia-pet). It wiped off easily w/a swipe of a finger and couldn't tell it was ever there. It didn't hurt anything, and I never had rings stick before or after using it. I have heard from people who had possible ring sticking-like problems, that it took care of their problems.

I still have a set of locomotive horns that I used to have on my '86 Toyota years ago. I've had a lot of fun w/them and lots of stories, but definately not legal to have that many decibels on the street. The police would definately fine you if they caught you using them. If you were standing in the same parking lot when I hit the horns, your pantlegs would vibrate... no exaggeration. I can't part w/my horns for the same reason you want some...TOO COOL!!!

I've got a 95 banshee w/original stock clutch basket and plates w/3 heavy duty and 3 extra heavy duty clutch springs, and the pancake bearing upgrade, stock stroke 350, ported, pulling 13.0 in the 1/4. I am looking into a 4mm cub setup. At what hp point will the stock basket not take it anymore? 10,000 rpm launches on asphault must have a limit on the stock parts, but what is next to upgrade if I go for a cub drag setup? THANKS!

Yep. Did the same thing myself. I went 1/2 sec faster in the 1/4mile and the water temp is nice and low. Thealky carbs are on mine right now, but not at my house. I don't have the info in front of me, but in the spring I can give you some specs if you can wait that long. Marc.

Sorry, no good. I have a few other sizes on hand, but no stk size. Sorry. Marc.