Hiram

I second the racelogic porting kits, I use them and have done a few already and the dremel is good if you have the flex shaft, but I just started using a mini-die grinder for the rough cuts and then the dremel for the fine touches. You will need sanding disks as these are what really give you the nice finish you want.

looking for some advise before I buy a set of rear tires, I mostly ride on gravel roads. Should I stay 20" or go down to 18" and which brand and style would not wieght/slow down the bike too much, so I will defently stay with 4ply instead of 6 ply for wieght reduction. I was looking at Holeshot, Rarz's, Kenda Claws, or Turf tammers need some opinions so feel free to speak your mind and experiences with any of the mentioned.

Any what works even better than alcohol for removing the glue residue left behind from stickers is mineral spirits.

With 20cc domes I wouldn't run anything less than 93 octane, also is your timing advanced?

The power pistons raise the intake timing and duration but do nothing to the exhuast timing, this is where your porting will come into place along with cleaning out the intake track and tranfer feed tunnels. There is a difference and both together work good. Now vito's also has a super stock piston that will change the exhuast timing and will act as a mild port job or as you say stage 3.

Does the axle even rotate back, as to ge the chain tighter? there are 2 - 17mm bolts that have to loosed alot.

Well I copied racelogic templates to do the porting but for the case matching I just came up with it as I sat around looking at my jugs and pistons amazed at how a 2stroke works and followed the path of air to see where it could be restricted and said to myself this has got to help some so I opened it up, I expected alittle bit more power but instead got a hole lot more than expected power. Man I took a big chance doing what I did on my new 2004 Shee, I could of ruined the whole power band, but instead the opposite happened so I just shared my geney pig story.

MrMatt, this is exactly what I did and was very easy as the vito's one piece base gaskit was exact for me, but if your are opened even more or using some other gaskit just size and old gaskit to the transfers and then use it as the template. You guys are right and I over steped my bounds in my comparision, but for those of you that are like me and are always looking for any thing that could help with each other and enjoy or have the skills to take matters into there own hands or even to share the good info on to whoever you trust to work on you quad this is some garranteed HP, this was not meant to steal anyone's magic thunder. So sorry if I leaked out some of your secret info . BTW I went up two more jets sizes last night to 380's and it ran even better but still need to test if it wants to go bigger. And for a quad to like 380's it's got to be making some nice HP @ sea level 75 degrees

After a melt down I had a few weeks ago from running lean after changing my air filter setup, I'm now back up and running along with a few more mods or lets just say I pulled out my Dremel and started grinding somemore from my original porting to the jugs and reed cages work I did myself. First of all I don't want to seem like I'm bragging but I'm happy as can be with these new modifications and this is just some free info I want to share for anyone that's like me and likes to tinker with there own toys to make them fast instead of paying big$$$ to the pro-builders just to get similar results so here it is: #1) I port matched my cases to the joining jugs feeding transfer tunnels, this alone was allot of grinding since they where way smaller than the receiving tunnels and where I believe my major power difference was a result of. #2) Then I raised my cylinder transfer port windows 1mm #3) took the jugs to the machinist to over bore to .020 #4) Installed a set of Vito's +.020 power pistons which I was very tempted to cut there windows bigger but instead left them alone to see what there higher windows would do alone.These pistons are very nice and come with a one piece base gasket that is already matched to the jugs transfer tunnels so this was what I used as a cutout template for the case. #5) Went up 3 main jet sizes and still running a bit lean, so today I will go up 2 more and I should be close. I'm running 16/41 sprockets that before the rebuild I wasn't able to break the rear end loose in 6th gear on loose terrain no matter how hard I got on the throttle, but now 1/2 throttle and it sliding silly everywhere, and on asphalt I can be rolling in 3rd gear and nail the throttle and when the powerband hits it puts the nose in the sky!

Before you send it to get bored, make sure you know what piston is going in there with the clearances it wants. This is very important!

I have the ported stock cages and want to replace the stock pedals with TDR ones but I also need to know which ones the have the hyper tension ones and the carbon fiber ones with different tensions???????? HELP

Try 25 pilots

Thanks, I let you guys know what comes out.

Any thoughts or experiences with port matching the case to the transfer tunnels. I will trim a old gaskit to the size of the transfer tunnels and then trace this to the case and grind away. I noticed it is only about 1-2 mm that will need to be grinded, but this will give it a unrestricted and uninterrupted flow up the port tunnels.

OK I see lots of negativity in this mod. I went to a performance builder by my neighborhood to ask about this mod and he had a wesico piston in his hand that he was boring out a bit and he said it adds mid-range. I also asked about instead using a Vito's power piston and he said just get a wesico instead becuase he has seen too many go bad and when they go they make major carnage. What do you guys make off this? I'm thinking of just buying Vito's power pistons and be done with it. I'm also thinking about port matching my cases to the jugs transfer ports.

Just wondering if any one has any info on this type of mod. I have my pistons and jugs out and will be redoning the top end and after porting the jugs the intake window on the jugs is wider than intake on the pistons and was thinking of port matching them up abit wider to match.

I would also check the float level in the carb bowls, using a piece of clear hose attached to the drain and place up next to the carb bowl, make sure it's just below the matting surfaces.

What do you think of if I do this, I will clean the intake boots and run it with just the outerwear with oil and after a good ride check the boots and see if any dirt is getting by.

I just got a pro-flow with the foam filter and was wondering how is everyone that uses a set up like this run it? It comes with a primary filter and a secondary/wrap filter, do you use both or just the primary and if you use both should you only oil the secondary/wrap?

I had a 03 LE Raptor with over $3,500 in the engine and suspension with all the work done by myself, and it was very fast but after just one ride one my friends Shee the Raptor was sold and I now have a 04 Shee and have never been happier. The Raptor is fast but it is such a smooth power delevery that it is boring compared to the arm ripping power band of a modified Shee................with that said DON'T DO IT!

In Naranga, Florida. which is south of Miami but just north of the Homestead

I believe it is supposed to be 43mm from the top of the jugs, I would love to be able to raise them and open them up as this is what feeds the mixture and can really make a difference. But for 50$ I will call Racelogic up and see, if not any ideas would be helpful.....I have one but what dentist would lend me his drills

I did a Racelogic port job on my jugs with my dremel and a flexable attachment, but I didn't do the transfer ports because I could'nt get in there even with a 90degree attachment. Any idea what I could use to get inside the jugs to get to the port windows and where to buy?

On stock jugs the intake is actually painted with a smooth glossy paint, and cleaning them up as you rough up the surfaces with #40 will work good. On the exhuast port after you go as high as you can with the grit then use aluminuim polish on the a felt attachment for a mirror finish.

I had my CPI's on my non ported motor before I ported it and there is a big difference after you port the motor. With the unported motor the powerband was so high up that it was almost impossible to ride and the hit when it finally did hit was enough to make you wet your pants as the front wheels point to the skyward but was quickly over. Now after porting the power band came way down to a more controlable spot but still with that hard hit that would make you wet your pants but this time it would keep on pulling and reving out to the moon. CPI's and porting are the way to go, so get the CPI's pipes now even if you can't port it now and when your ready to port your one step ahead. PS: I did my own porting using the Racelogic Templates.