sredish

Damn that's nice.

I likey my elka...

Just take a sawzall and cut off the plastic behind the last pair of clips. If you did that, your fine. It's really not that hard.

They won't pull more power and they won't hurt anything. The stock stator pumps out around 75 watts give or take a couple and that's what your gonna get, like it or not. If you put 2 55w lights on there, then your gonna be short about 35w. If you think they're bright, that's great, but they're not putting out their full potential, only a percentage, and 35w bulbs might actually be brighter because they'd be recieving a full supply of power. Make sense? My 55w Hellas were dim compared to how they are now with the aftmkt stator, so chances are, your 55w lights are dim also compared to how they're supposed to be. Like I said, it won't hurt anything, but I'd try to find some 35w bulbs to try out also and see if there is a difference.

Be sure to send pics when you get it, and good luck with your search.

I always heard a -4 is good for mx.

DG's rock!

Certain types of porting can cause dips like that as well, that can't be jetted out.

Get an adjustable stator plate from Ricky Stator, rickystator.com, or from RockyMountainATV.com and then you can simply rotate it to the desired tick mark. Or, you can mod yours to be rotated, and you can search for some pics on modding stator plate. Mine's now advanced +7 degrees and I like it there. +4 is considered the "safe" area and +8 is about as high as I'd go. Advancing the timing, will generally get you a couple more hp's and make the machine much more responsive. I noticed quite a bit going to +4 and noticed even more when I went on up to +7.

Exactly what I was going to say. Eric is an easy guy to deal with, and if they're not just perfect when you try them out, he'll make them perfect, whether you prefer just a tad lighter or stiffer springs or whatever. Keep in mind, that shock setup is generally a "preference" thing, and he'll get them as close as possible with talking to you about your ride style and all, and once you get them on, you might need to fine-tune just a tad. But, they're super sweet shocks.

Don't let anyone fool you, the FMF Fatty pipes are a great pipe and can do most everything well. I ran then for almost 2 years and they are great. They're not "cheap" like that, but they're just a extremely great buy, and will compliment all your other mods very well. *I'd get the pipes, VForce reeds, K&N ProFlow and adjustable stator plate (for the ignition) setup right off the bat. *If you can still afford it, then go for the head, I'd buy the Noss head over milling the stocker. If your tapped for cash, milling isn't bad, but the extra coolant flow and adjustability is very nice. If your over 3k feet, then I'd go with some 20s. *Boonman can work his magic at any time, but I'd wait till after the first step, or just send it to him when you put on the stator plate, that way you only have to pull the flywheel once. *The Trinity 2-into1 carb is awesome, bar none. And you can do that at any time as well. I ran the 2-into-1 carb with Fatties and VForce, damn near same setup as your doing, and it worked awesome. I did the carb well after the pipes and all, so I had a good before and after feel, and it's an awesome setup, well worth the money. Check Ebay for good deals, I saved $200 on mine and it was new still in shrinkwrap. *After the pipes, reeds and compression, you should pull a 15/41 very nicely and it sets the gears up just right for all around riding and my racing XC. Later man, let us know if you have other questions. Just in case I didn't say it before, I'm running an almost exact setup to what you wanna buy. The 2-1 carb, coolhead, timing plate (at +7), lightened flywheel, vforce reeds, and i just changed to Paul Turner midrange pipes, but not because I don't like the Fatties, I sold them to be able to pay for some other stuff and wish I hadn't.

Alright, I kept on searching and found that it's a 2-bolt flange that's needed to attach the pipes. As far as electrical, I'll need a battery and some other shiz, I don't know if that's all worth the extra 10 hp, it probably is, but I'm so lazy. I think the 5 bills for the cylinder is a little steep also.

I want to bring this back up. I let the motor go I was looking at, but just recently came across some cylinders, head and powervalves for around 5 bills and didn't know how good of a deal this was or not. Said to be unported and .030 over. I race XC and like a good overall powerband. Right now, my banshee is setup with a woods port and for low/mid power. How much more power would a similarly setup powervalved motor make compared to a standard motor. Should I just stay with the ported cylinders I have or would getting the cylinders and then getting them ported and all be worth the hassle? I also want to get a little deeper into the electrical setup. What would need to be done and how do the pipes attach, the same way?

I feel you bro!

Banshees are incredible desert runners. Granted, the suspension isn't that great, but if you get a banshee and put on some inexpensive shocks, you'll have a kickass screamin desert machine. Buy the banshee, get a set of Toomey T5's, and then get some Works shocks to help soak up the bumps and you'll be happy.

The Banshee is a 7 time baja winner. Dean Sundahl made the banshee famous in the baja. CPIs are more top end than the T5s.

BFH

That fee is per team, it's actually a fee for the machine your entering. Finish or not, the experience would be like no other. Dakar Rally might not work for me, don't think I could be gone that long, but that is a pretty insane event on it's own. I don't think CPIs are the pipe of choice. I've been thinking about that and I believe T5s would probably be the best choice, or some SSTs. I'd really like to try my machine out with some T5s in the dunes. I bet it'd be a strong muthafucka in the desert with some T5s. Is Ben running RZ cylinders tho, I thought I read that he was. Powervalves are the shit!

Yep, they're Hipertechs. Stclark has a black set like that on his 450. As far as the IRazrs, I'll be ordering a pair for the rear very shortly and give them a try against my old regular Razrs.

Jump on it Led!!

On a stock (internally stock) motor, the stock carbs outperform any other dual carb setup, across the board. With mild portwork, they still perform really well. I wouldn't worry about changing carbs until after you get some engine work done.

I was looking on the expanded entry list and it looks like the class of choice is the Sportman - ATV class. There were 5 teams in this class this year and it is the class that Mike Penland raced in with his brother I think it was. The quads were 2 Honda 450r's, 1 Kawasaki (doesn't give model), a Bomber 650, and a 400ex. Penland and them guys were on the Kawaski, surprisingly hehe, and scored a big DNF. That's what they get for riding a Kawi. I also wanted to add that all the quad and bike teams had only 3 riders..... so think on that for a few. The times in this class were from 26:43:06 to 32:12:12 with an average speed of 37.9 to 31.4 mph. The results show 6 teams in this class, with Penland and 6th teams not finishing, they must have drawn out of the race. The Pro ATV class times were from 19:52:23 to 33:03:16 with avg. speeds from 30.6 to 51mph. 51mph is smoking, I mean as fast as most of the trucks and buggies; that was on a Bomber 650. Eichner's team came in 2nd with a time of 20:01:16 and an avg. speed of 50mph on a Honda 450r. I'm working on getting a Rules & Regs book also. Entry fee is $950 with an add'l fee of $50 for a Score-Intl membership.

Not to keep dragging this thread on, but I've been doing some research on them since the start of this thread and have heard from several different sources that they have incredible bite and hookup in most offroad surfaces and really hook up in softer or looser surfaces. Bill Ballance has been running them for awhile in the GNCC series as well. I think I'm definitely gonna be trying a set.

23s to 22s are what you'd need for stock compression. You can go with 21s at sea level and stay with pump gas, and probably 20s if your any higher than 1,000 or so feet. What you should do is talk to dlnoss (dave @ noss machine) and he'll give you all the info you want and set you up with the right sizes for your application. He's a great guy to work with and will get you setup right.