sredish

i found some on ebay for around $130 I think. Here's some Pro Designs for $75. They should work also. You can get boots to work for the stockers, but the stockers are too necked down to get the full benefit of the bigger carbs. The alum. intakes are the cat's meow!!

Fatties are great great pipes, dirt cheap new and work awesome with mods. The more mods you do, the better they perform. Scott

You won't run out of coolant, just be sure to check the radiator every so often. Really the only gain is to help clean everything up. I got rid of mine a long time ago and I've never had to add coolant to the system, not once.

I don't have any boots or anything for those Mikunis, carbs only. You can get some really inexpensively from UPP, or step up to a billet setup from Trinity or Boss. $150 is fine. Still want that swinger , for the price I gave you before, not the one listed.... Scott

Look at my sig.

If anyone has a good working stator, I'd like to buy it off of ya! Lemme know.

how much advanced are you? I've ran up to +8 with no probs. You sure you weren't a little lean with the extra weight, in the dunes, making the motor work extra hard?

The idea is kind of this, with the hotter plug, less fouling, it may be possible to bump your main up another size and get more fuel to burn in there with less chance to foul, and that would be where the power gain would be. I've never used them to "fix" a fouling issue and they shouldn't be used as such. They are simply a plug with a hotter spark and can burn the fuel more efficiently. For 99% of the peeps, there will be 0 difference. I ran them for about 8 months, bumped my main up some and they weren't too bad, but I'm now back to the BR8ES, plain and cheap. Also, I WOULD NOT switch from BR8's to BR9's or BR7's without the advice of an experienced engine builder. If you have a BOATLOAD of mods or something to need the different heat range, and are advised accordingly maybe, but don't just buy a different heat range to try out, especially if you only have pipes, and the little podunk mods the majority of us do. Stay in the "8" heat range. If you read the plug and are getting a very obvious problem with the heat range of the plug, I understand, but half the peeps don't even know how to read the plug for lean/rich let alone heat range.

If I did it was unintentionally. I marked the left one with a small permanent dot, then pulled them. Then I disassembled them to inspect even further and cleaned them somewhat and put them back together and put the intake all back on with the reed cages on the opposite cylinders. Dunno. I can't see how bad gas would affect only one, but maybe something to do with who knows what. I'm still confused and not sure if she's "all clear" yet, but I'll keep putting some fuel through it and see if she's good now. She seemed to be running pretty darned good overall by the time I was done. What a mess, from testing all the electrical for no spark and getting the stator then the misfiring, she was really testing me. Maybe she was pissed.... She better get used to it, the Honda ain't going nowhere. Scott

My stock ported banshee was 4th clip down on an EEK needle. The stock needle in the PWK is a DEK. The only difference between the DEK and the EEK is 3/4 to WOT, the rest is exactly the same. I don't understand why think he'd be rich when your jetting is exactly the same except for one size bigger on the main. The 3rd clip is the middle setting. After portwork, I'm beginning to think the motor has enough flow to warrant the DEK needle. My stock ported banshee didn't flow enough to get fuel from the DEK, but I'm at the 5th clip on the DEK and it seems to be running good. Oh, and I'm at a 205 main, 52 pilot. I'll probably try the EEK again, but wait until I get a little closer with the tuning. Scott

alrighty.... swapped the reed cages and changed the fuel. I got fresh fuel from the pump. the other was 110 but it was out of the bottom of a 55 gal. barrel at a place that you could say was nothing but shady. It started up and spit some on the left side like it had been but very slowly started to clear up. After idling for a few minutes, it started idling like it should, pretty steady and even out of both sides. Hmm, seems better. So, I throw her in gear and go for a ride. The left side was still blowing some mad smoke plumes and cutting out a little bit, less tho. So, I go back and check the idle again. Much better than before, idling perfectly. So, I throw in a 205 main and raise the needle from the 3rd to the 5th clip (still DEK needle), and after a 2 or 3 minute ride, it seemed to clear up pretty good. full throttle was a lot better and seemed to be running hard and both cylinders were firing good. now, there was still an occasional spit from the left side, but they were getting farther and farther apart. I still hadn't gotten it above 3/4 throttle. She seemed to be warmed up pretty good and firing much better, so I threw in a few WOT punches in there. Dammit, hard to steer and see what's going on with the blur of trees going by.... ran pretty damned good. There was a hesitation in there, but it was a flat kind of lean type hesitation, not a one cylinder isn't firing and it was very short. I haven't ran any plug checks or anything, so the tuning will now commence. I think I might go back to the EEK needle and go down a size on the main, but it's still really hard to tell w/o riding much. So, was it the fuel... I dunno. And I've only put maybe 3 or 4 minutes on it so far, so I'm hoping this wasn't just a tease, but it seems that it may have worked itself out some. I'll do some more riding and playing later and let you all know. Scott

Yea, I'll play with that before I put them in. I've already had the damn things off twice checking crap. I will say, a few times I hit it riding and they both fired like they were supposed to for a moment, and holy freaking crap what a pull that quad had. When I get her tuned, she is going to freaking fly.... Oh, and don't I owe you some dough, dinero, pesos, ruples??

Yea, they help. For as cheap as they are, just get one off of Ebay and put it in, then you'll know.

Thanks bigboy. Actually, I haven't swapped the reed cages, but I'm going to in the next hour or so. I've also got some new fuel. I'm going to swap the reed cages and try it and if that doesn't prove anything different, then I'll replace the fuel and try that. If that doesn't do anything, I'll just start hitting myself in the head with my rubber mallet. I'm hoping it follows the reeds so I can move forward.

Got a friend who busted up his kickstart or something, don't really know, but he's looking for one. Any U peeps have one handy? Scott

The T5's perform better with internal mods, porting, stroking, etc. On a stock bike, the SST's will be smoother, come on a little earlier and have a bit more low end torque. The T5's will probably hit harder, and be a tad bit stronger on top if you can keep it in the power. Tough choice, and it's yours to make. Scott

don't trust him... he'll have your bike parted out to all the d/fw chop shops.... j/p

What I did do was hook a timing light to the wire to be sure the wire was getting juice. Then, when that test passed, I swapped the plug wires over to see if it followed the wire. If it did, then I would've figured the boot was faulty, but it didn't follow the wires. Also, I did try another CDI and coil off a friend's bike, with no luck. This is my present thought. I used to run 104 in it. My compression checked in at around 150 when the rebuild was fresh, but after sitting it seems to have dropped to around 140, maybe a tad less. The dealer was out of 104, so I had him fill it with 110. Well, I'm thinking the 110 needs a lot higher compression to burn properly and may be causing some issues with the firing. So, I'm going to get some 93 today and try it out. Worst case, I can eliminate the fuel as a problem, best case, she runs great. Also, I'm thinking the compression drop may be to the bike sitting for 3 months and once I get her out there and some heat cycles through her, the rings will tighten back up and some compression will be restored. Dunno. Scott

boonman is a good one. holyman isn't too bad... bigboybanshee, cotton-eyed-joe. dang, having alzheimers myself....

the peak rpms varies greatly depending on the pipes that are on it. if your talking stock, i really don't know, maybe 8,500 or 9k... someone has a much answer than I have I'm sure. Scott

At first the throttle position was about mid-throttle, so I tried richening and leaning with no luck. It actually seems to have gotten worse, like it just starts misfiring and I can't get the left side to fire normally now.... I might flip those reed petals over tomorrow before I keep going.... at least it'll rule it out. Thanks, Scott

Compression seems to be in the 135 to 137 range. While that seems fine and pretty even, I seem to remember it being around 150 or so when I redid my top end. Maybe it's because I haven't been running it. Dunno... just wanted to add that.

I'm still going nuts. Left side is not firing. I checked to make sure the coil is putting out spark with a timing light. I went up to a 215 in the single 35mm carb, then stepped down to a 185. I've gone from EEK in the fifth, to DEK in the third. I swapped plug boots to see if it followed the boot, nope it doesn't. I've swapped several new plugs in to make sure it's not fouling out for some reason. When I pull the plug, I see plenty of spark and there's fresh unburnt gas on it. I've pulled the intake twice to check the VForce reeds and all. Nothing stuck in there, the reeds aren't broken or anything. One side (can't remember which side now) is slightly open, less than the width of a penny tho. I can just barely see daylight through the one, but I didn't think that would make much difference. I was having trouble idling, but got that all figured out. I haven't performed a compression check, but will in a few. The top end was just put in in Dec. and I have maybe 5 hours on it, so I highly doubt the compression has dropped, but who knows. I also used Propane gas and went over the left side completely hoping for an obvious air leak, but of course, didn't find anything. The only other thought would be a crank seal, but it ran perfect the last time it was used, maybe 2 to 3 months ago. I did change from the Trinity intake to the Graydon with an open pod filter, but I can't figure out why one cylinder would run differently than the other with a single carb setup, other than an air leak or reed issue. The left pipe is loose where it joins the stinger. I wrapped paper and taped it to keep the oil from squirting out, and figured I'd deal with it after I get her jetted and running good. Don't think that'd make much difference, do you? I'm about to start richening again, but I'm just getting more pissed and more pissed. TIme to stop and grab a margarita. Scott

Maybe your clutch, does it seem jumpy when you shift it into gears and hold the clutch in? Maybe you need to adjust your idle, maybe adjust it a little higher.

Pain killers....