sredish

There were definitely more people than I imagined. The wind was pretty shitty Sat. morning but it turned out alright, except my tent was filled with sand. I ended up coming home late Sat night, left around 8pm and got home at 12:30. Much better than sleeping in the sand filled sleeping bag.

Absolutely. Fatties love the 4th clip on the needle. One clip on the needle is usually equal to a half size when transitioning into the main. That should be fine unless your a little fat to begin with.

I wouldn't mess with the air screw unless there is a problem with idling or some throttle response issues. As far as the color, depends on how light. I like mine to be a good chocolate brown, that's where it runs the best. The way you said that scares me a little that it might be a little lean. You will probably need to rejet with the new reed cage due to the extra air coming in, thats why it's lighter. A couple sizes on the main should do it, maybe a clip richer on the needle, away from the blunt end.

Hey man, I was gone over part of the weekend. Glad to hear your getting close to the root of the problem. Those electrical problems can be a bitch, you get your jetting all screwed up to find something else is the problem. Good luck and keep us in the loop.

You shouldn't be changing the main unless your rich or lean at wide open throttle. The first thing you need to do is establish your base for the main. Get your main set to where it needs to be, then dial in the pilots. I don't think I'd go up to the 2nd position, the 3rd is the least I'd go with pipes, and the 4th should be okay at your elevation when jetted properly. Keep it in the 3rd position, get your mains then adjust the needle for midrange response. One thing, when your making changes to the carbs and things. Try to only do one thing at a time. This way if it bogs after a single change then you know what caused it, instead of changing the main, needle and air screw then you don't really know where the problem came in. It's easier to just go in and change everything, but you can lose track of what change caused what symptom. Personally, i like it on the rich side of the line.

and back to ebay I go.

NOW WAIT JUST A MINUTE!! We don't need to be rushing into things, lets just rethink this whole deal. Are you sure you want to be putting off something of that magnitude?? Hey, just checking. Quicksand Motorsports is a great place to get some also, I always forget about them. I know the LSR arms are pricey as are the Roll Designs. The Quicksands are pretty damn nice and a little less. However, if I could buy with no money issues, it'd be Roll Design all the way!!

That's some sweet info. Thanks for giving it to us. I'd be interested to know how the comparison would be with a single 35 thrown in there. The biggest question on the single is "a 33 or a 35". I assume that the power would be fairly similar just a little more up in the powerband. I'd imagine the 33 comes on a little sooner. Thanks again and keep it coming.

Lonestars or Roll Design. Damn, did you get a raise or something?? oh, and your welcome.

I like my "bland" Coolhead. However, I wouldn't mind having a spiffy blue one. Dave, what's your trade in policy?

I prefer gear oil, because that what the trans. is gears... All will say what ever they use.. the bible says 10w30 viscosity... any way 1.6 qts. after oil change! After rebuild 1.8 qts. I too run gear oil, specifically Silkolene Comp Gear. Great stuff. I like motorcycle oil designed for wet clutch transmissions. They offer things that typical 10w30 doesn't, as far as additives to help your clutch perform better.

you won't "blow" the motor if it's jetted properly. that's why we recommend to run it in the highest gear possible to check the plugs.

Me too. The 15/41 is a great gear setup. I swap the rear sprocket for fine tuning depending on where I'm riding.

A big fucking drill bit. Nah, take to a local machine shop that is reputable in boring cylinders, or send it to Passion Racing or someone similar and let them do it for you.

He would be more familiar with the 2:1 pipe than me. If you don't lose as much top as I thought, sounds like it would work out great.

at daylight baby... Good night.

That's pretty close, you might step up to a 210 and go from there. I'd run a 50 pilot with the needle in the 4th clip. The 4th clip for sure, and the rest is up to how it works out. My bike is a lean runner, it likes the fuel, always has. I'm running a 220 main / 52 pilot on mine with the mods in my sig, like I said, it likes the fuel, so maybe a 200 is good. Most people I know with similar mods are running a 200 to 185 on the main. Good luck and let us know how it works out. Scott

Hey Grrl. Don't know shit about those kits. Sorry. Just wanted to pop in and remind you that I'm going duning tomorrow. Oh, and my camera is already in the truck. Hope you get it worked out. Later.

Has anyone heard of this company? I'm into getting a set. Need some happenin brakes. I want some Galfers but the price seems right on these. Gimme some input. ASR Front Rear Steel Brake Line Set

damn straight!

Good for you!

The 2:1 will help you out a lot with that. If you do ride mostly woods, then you will be a lot more competitive with that pipe due to the easier power to use. One thing, you will lose quite a bit of top with that change, so if your not prepared to lose that much, you could go to some Fatties and still have some top end to play with, not sure how the top is on the Gnarlies, but I've heard they are good woods pipes as well. Sounds good, sell the SSTs, I bet you can get some dough for them.

yep, they're probably jets, and you will have to rejet the bike, don't rely solely on what they send you.

Me too, it was a goner the first time I saw it. There are some bolts to get to, but they're a bitch. You can actually bend the cover around the rotor a little and slide it out. Once it's out, don't put it back in till the covers are :flame: toast.