sredish

The 2's were very nice reeds. Sucks they discontinued them, they were killer. I'd take the 2s over the 3s even for the same price, personally.

this is the best thing you can buy, a Maxima mixing bottle. it's like a ratio-rite but with a cap so it doesn't have dirt sticking and getting nasty and it's smaller so it's easier to pack. Another nice thing is if you already have some fuel mixed, you can just put the necessary oil in the bottle and take it with you ready to mix, then on the road when you get more fuel or need to mix more, you can add it in. http://www.maximausa.com/products/misc/mixbottle.asp

try doing a right-click and "save as" deal. it should save it as an excel file on your 'puter and then you can open it up. 17/38 would "technically" do it but the higher the gearing (larger front / smaller rear), the more power your going to need to pull it. I don't think you can pull a 17 front sprocket through 6th gear with your mods, unless it was perfectly flat or a tad downhill but even then it'd would take FOREVER.

yea. play in the drags with that, 2nd gear starts but we're usually crapping out before I hit 6th. Pulls fine through 5th and into 6th but I haven't topped 6th out in the sand. Also, the drags are flat, not up a hill like they are out in CA.

Fatties are hugely underrated here lately on this site, mostly because a lot of the peeps that are here now are into full dragging but that doesn't make up the majority of regular riders. In regards to the chrome on the Fatties, it holds up well. My Fatties were 3 years old when I sold them and they were still in perfect shape. No rust, nothing. Not saying the chrome is better than Toomeys but it's on par with them. And as far as the porting goes, you say never but if we all had a nickle every time we heard that. Porting isn't just for drag racers, there's wood ports, dune ports, trail ports, a portjob for everyone.

I'm not a dragger but a trail and duner. In the sand, I run a 15/40 with 21" rear 8 paddle Padla Brats, just for the record.

sounds good then. you're on the right track.

here's a file that'll help with the gearing. type in the rear tire size, sprockets and go from there to see what will give you what. from what I can remember, with 20" tires, a 15/38 or 15/39 should get you there. mine with a 15/38 was clocked at 88 and I still had a lot of 6th to go, I should've been able to hit 92 or 93 and maybe a little more. http://www.redishconstruction.com/Images/P...nshee/speed.xls

you might try going to the 5th clip, raising it one more position. do you spend most of your time at WOT or at 1/2 throttle? How and where do you ride? Going up on the mains one size would probably work as well and I'd consider trying it.

there are true leaded octane boosters and they are pretty much powered by TETRAETHYL LEAD. Here's one we've tried, tested and have had perfect results with. http://www.kemcooil.com/product_info.php?pId=61 I wouldn't say it's much, if any, cheaper to use than straight race fuels, but if your in a situation where you can't buy race fuels and need to "perk" up some pump fuel, here's what you can use. You can also use stuff from the paint section, I can't remember if it's paint thinner or what exactly but there's a cleaner or something that's like 99% TETRAETHYL LEAD and will work as an additive as well. This TEL is what's used to raise the octane in AV gas and was used extensively in the past as a standard in gasoline to control octane but when catalytic converters were introduced, it was found that TEL is harmful to them and the additive was switched to MTBE to create unleaded fuel, which you now see on the little stickers at the gas station, and MTBE is slowly being phased out and Ethanol brought in.

as the temps drop, your jetting will lean out some. 10 to 15 degrees doesn't really sound like much tho. however, if you were a tad on the lean side before and the lower temps are just pushing you to that point, then it's possible. try richening the main jet a smidge and / or raising the needle a clip and see if it cures it.

there is no perfect pipe, period. All three you mentioned are good, just depends on how and where you ride. Pro Circuits are a pretty good pipe that are more all-around than the T5s, so they wouldn't be a bad choice regardless.

Get some fatties, if you want my opinion. The T5s are not going to have enough bottom and he'll be pulling you out of the hole and you'll be playing catch up the whole way. The T6s don't respond as well to porting, if you were to buy those and then decide to port, you'd end up buying another set of pipes. FMF Fatties have pretty good bottom end with a smooth really strong midrange and still top out good. With the Fatties, you'll be outrevving him and pulling hard as hell in the midrange. Best of all, the Fatties are fairly inexpensive and just get better and better with motor mods (porting/stroking/etc.)

doesn't eliminate but helps with some. it's harder on the chain to bend so much around a 13. I pretty much always run a 15t and adjust the rear accordingly, usually from a 41 to a 38. I like it setup a little taller because it spreads the gears out; lets you hold gears longer.

I ran my 200w Ricky Stator for quite awhile, powering two Hella 500 w/ 75w bulbs and it was bright as FOOK. Worked well never had a problem, just don't let moisture in there.

i prefer for my bikes to have wider gears and to be spread out a little more. I've never ran anything bigger than a 15 front sprocket but have heard of stroked draggers running 16s and 17s. Stock is about as low as I'd go.

my bad on the interchanging of rings. I should've known that but was wrong. Thanks Dave for being around to help us unknowing!!

that's cool. bet it had a lot of torque and broad power. perfect example of sacrificing a little peak for a more broad power delivery working out well. who ported the motor, what kind of porting and what carbs? i bet he can run some massively tall gearing as well, like 17 front tooth.

Don't believe so but again, a question for Dave.

it looks to be a pretty nice desert bike, not sure that its 28k nice but it's got more to it than the avg. banshee. not sure I'd "weld and true" the clutch tho, that' sounds interesting.

never had the mids on a dyno so I can't say what the actual rev out RPM would be but compared to other pipes I've ran, they didn't have near the rev out. they're fun pipes and work extremely well in their environment. Geared right and ridden right, they can make for a quick bike as well but it has to be shifted and rode differently than a bike with say, T5's or in an extreme case, Rockets/CPIs/etc. 9k to 9500 sounds pretty close tho from what i remember. mids revving to 10,500 would be interesting. don't have much experience with any of the PTs on a stroked motor, how'd they respond on that 4 mil? sounds like they responded well.

here's a clip of a Vapor hooked up to a bike over on my Honda site. http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o128/No...nt=DSCF1001.flv

it's always a good idea to pressure wash the motor before you take it apart but you gotta pull it all apart anyways now. good luck with your 4 mil FAST setup.

nah, 280s is a decent place to start just don't be surprised if you have to go up. did you ever tell us your elevation?

sounds great, glad you got it dialed in some. yea, there's boatloads of needles and stuff and it all has to work well together and it can get really confusing, so one step at a time is key. anyways, glad you got it figured out.