sredish

ANY aluminum is gonna wear much faster than steel, especially in sand. Why are you wanting to run aluminum sprockets? The best sprockets for your buck are the cheap ass steel JT and Primary Drive ones that cost under $15. They'll last longer than any aluminum times 2 and are cheaper. I don't know anything about Nac's Extra Light beer, i mean sprockets, but i don't imagine they're anything special other than a name. Aluminum is for the guys that can afford to buy a new sprocket after every other race or the ones that are sponsored. If you wanna actually buy something better than regular old steel, buy a Sidewinder.

I don't imagine there are too many Kawie experts floatin on the shee forum, that might be why your not getting much help on the matter. Might I suggest a visit to KawieRiders Forums for more help on that. They have a Tecate section and all. later. EDIT: In fact, after one quick look through the Tecate section I found this thread on that very ebay auction. It's amazing what you can find with a little searching. They're discussing the very thing your asking us about, well started to anyway...

fmf's reeds are nothing more than stock ported cages with fmf branded reeds. I'm not saying ported stockers are bad, but there's a reason why people do that to save money over the vforce. If your gonna buy some reeds, spend the money and get the vforce, otherwise port your stockers and get some TDR reeds and that'll work better than FMFs.

the old school fmfs were more of a top end pipe than a mid/all around like the fatties, and the fatties do rev higher than the t-6s when viewed on a dyno sheet. sometimes the dyno sheet and the seat of the pants don't jive, but that's how it shows on a sheet. a lot have said they like they're t-6s, but they don't look like a performer on a sheet as well. fatties are a great overall pipe, if you a person wants something a little higher than the fatties, i'd say go with t5s. Pro Circuits are also supposed to be really good pipes and they're just a tad higher than the Fatties if I remember correctly.

who and where???

damn useless stories.... j/k, have a good trip bro, hope the diesel makes you happy!!

Those of you that don't know my issue, I've been fighting a super rich main jet and not still not having enough fuel. I've basically narrowed it to the air vacuum through the carb. I feel that there is some turbulence or something that is not getting the air to flow properly. I don't know this, but that's all that's left it could be. I ordered a richer tapered needle that would give me more fuel at 3/4 to Full throttle, and EEK, I was using a DEK. I put in the EEK and took out my 230 main jet and put in a 200 main jet. The power was instantly stronger. There had to be another five horses. It was pulling up harder than it has in a long time, maybe ever. I was on the road doing a plug test and it was coming up on me in 4th with my 15/41 setup. While, I'd like to not go any higher, I feel I could go a touch richer, so tomorrow I might try a 205 and hopefully that will get her done. But it seems that my motor really needed that extra pull at 3/4 throttle to come on sooner, and boy does it. It took an hour to get the smile off my face. So, the saga continues...

ok, firstoff, there's two different scenarios that this pertains to. 1) Premix Ratio - the mixture ratio of your gas and oil premix. richening this means adding more oil, leaning this means using less oil in relation to the same amount of fuel. 2) Air/Fuel Ratio - this ratio is how much premix fuel in relation to the amount of air coming in to the motor, what the pistons see. richening the air/fuel would be adding more fuel to the mixture (by using larger jets), and leaning the air/fuel would be using less fuel (using smaller jets) in relation to the same amount of air. Typically, when someone says their machine is running lean/rich, etc., they are referring to their air/fuel ratio. For instance, my machine has been running on the lean side and I've been fighting to get more fuel into her. I had to get a richer needle to allow more fuel through in the upper 3/4 of the throttle. Does this make sense?

he'll come through. you've been there i know, but i'll say my 2 year old comes and goes. he'll only want to hang out with me and my quad and my tractor and just go with me, but then he'll get in this stage where if mommy looks like she's heading for the door he freaks, and everytime something's wrong, he has to go hug on mommy, don't worry about dad, he's just fun to play with every now and then. it used to bug me, but I just ignore it now. actually, mommy is gone for 5 days to NYC so it's just me and him, but grandma and grandpa will be watching him tomorrow while i ride. also, i'm not gonna be hitting it too hard tomorrow, it'll be the first ride since i changed the domes and the intake stuff and i want to make sure my jetting is where it should be, i was hoping i fixed a leak or something, and i just want to take it easy for a little while to be sure it's all square. looking forward tho. so, everybody's still up and goin or what?

Holy shit. That's the first time I've seen someone post the same thing in three different areas, i see two a lot, but three??? Like bigboy said, people aren't gonna want to respond at all if you got shit all over the place, keep it where the topic suggests, like banshee repairs.

Also, be sure that your jetting is correct. A lean jetting condition will definitely cause it to begin overheating. Other than that, make sure your impeller is good, by replacing it with a PD Impeller as they mentioned, you can get a coolhead/nosshead and run some Engine Ice. That's exactly how my setup is and I've NEVER ONCE overheated. A shroud should not be necessary. Also, engine ice will help, but will not fix a problem that's coming from something else. A lot of times, a motor that continually overheats is telling you something. Either the impeller is bad, the rad is not flowing, or more times than not, your lean. Overheating is bad, and I wouldn't continue to run it much with it overheating all the time, you'll end up with a lot more problems.

Fatties actually work very well with mods. They respond to mods better than a lot of pipes out there. If you like the power the Fatties add and where it adds it, I'd for sure keep them and try them out first, I bet you'll be surprised.

I was pretty sure of that, but not 100%. Thanks for that. So, that answers that.

Dammit, on the edit part, I meant I'd go with the lt250, not the tecate. WTF is wrong with me today!! CR500 powered banshee, know where I can get one...

Kinda dumb here, shows how limited my intelligence level is, but what externally on the shee is different, i guess i'm asking, what prevents adpapting rz powervalves to the shee cylinders? They're pretty much the same correct, I'd think they wouldn't really change anything during casting, or did they?

The first lt250s were 5 speeds, I owned one, and they're great machines if they're taken care of. Actually, they'll take some abuse, the main issue with those is the frame has some weak spots, but unless it was really pounded it'll probably be alright. I'd go with the lt250 in a heartbeat. EDIT: Shit I thought you were talking bout the lt, not tecate. I'd go with the tecate, they handle better, there's more stuff out there for em, and they're just plain sweet!! Seriously, you can't go wrong with an lt in decent shape!

+2 / +1 Chrome Lonestars (race version not rec) So far so good.

I know this has been discussed, but what about adapting from an rz? Last night, I found a complete rz motor on original top end.

I've just been thinkin about where I want to go with the shee a lot lately. Whats the cheapest way to get into powervalves for the shee and how much power can you expect to gain alone with the addition of them? I'm sure there are other things that are more hp for your dollar. I'm not too famililar with going that direction so I thought I'd ask. Later.

Damn, I have only 151 with 20cc domes, and I'm at 650'.

Someone call?? Yeah, that's different. I've heard of redish colored plugs before and I was thinking it had something to do with the fuel or oil. Not sure, maybe post a pic.

Metrosexual Definition: a young, urban and usually heterosexual male who is concerned with fashion, food and grooming ex. Ok, so you pretty much mean, the Backstreet Boys, NSync, etc. Cool thanks, Brooke I will say, I did not watch the debate tonight. I might later on, but it's all politics, they're just gonna tell us what they think we want to hear, and disagree with each other. I've made my decision, don't need to watch the debate to decide.

I'd get the Delta 2's because they're so proven, I'm sure you wounldn't go wrong with the 3's either. I've had mine in my banshee for well over a year and this past week replaced all the gaskets in my intake and checked the reeds to see how they looked and they still look new to me. I'm impressed with how strong they seem to be.

Ok, I don't get into these political debates too often, and I'm definitely a Bush guy, but I just have to have a definition of METROSEXUAL!!

No worries fellas. I had my intake manifold, carb and reeds out, changed back to the High setting, back in and hittin 3rd out in the field in less than a half-hour. It smoked a little at first when cold, like normal, then it cleared up. I rode for ten minutes and then it started smoking a lot when I let off the throttle and at idle, then the left side kinda let up a little and the right kept smokin. figured it was actin a little rich, i'll check it out more later. this is the first ride after replacing the domes and pulling the intake off and replacing all the gaskets. i was hoping to find something that might cause an airleak and be the cause of a 230 main in my single carb, so I was half-hoping to richen up a little.