MILO

i have the did x ring atv chain. been running it for about a year or more without any problems. it does seem to be a little heavier made than others i've used. again, replace chain and sprockets together or one will ruin the other in no time.

if that's the only reason you want to switch then upgrade your suspension. it would be a hell of a lot cheaper than getting a new 450, and you won't be givin up your screaming banshee.

that looks pretty cool chris. i was hoping to see one of these kits actually on a shee to see what it looked like. i was outbid on e-bay and haven't gotten one yet. they're like $135 from DMP. good deal for $65!

i really like my ps bandits. they work great on trails, mud, hill climbs, wherever. i always get a kick out of guys that avoid mud and puddles with their shee's. i don't hit mudholes and see what it takes to swamp mine, but i do like to play in the mud and muck. you can't go far here in pa without finding some mud, or crossing a creek or two, like it or not! that's why i'm not worried about chrome and billet to make her look pretty, 10 minutes of riding and you can't see it anyway, and then hours of cleaning and polishing later.

what the hell is 'the dogbone'

yeah, what he said. don't go the the stealer just yet. it's probably something simple. keep searchin.

koops, you may know that i'm only about 45 minutes from you, and yep we've finally gotten some decent riding weather. too bad my shee is still waiting on some clutch parts to come in and get put on!! so i've been toolin around on the old mans rubicon instead. it's nice to get out, but damn i miss my banshee. especially when about 25 of us went for a ride and there were 3 shee's, a raptor, a predator, blasters, ex's, kfx's, and then me and a few others on the ute's

make sure you don't have the carb bowls switched. the left one has to have the starter jet in the bowl. make sure you're crossover tube is on between the carbs. check to see if the carbs are in sync too. badly clogged air filter?? need new plugs? doesn't sound electrical though if it's fine once it warms up.

that's what i thought too. your best bet is to remove the cap, and using the old pad, use a c-clamp and slowly press the piston back in completely. did the pedal work right before you switched the pads? pull the caliper back off and work the pedal to see if it is working at all without resistance. it may just need bled out better, or the piston is froze up for some reason. maybe take it all apart and clean it up real good.

how about a pic?

yeah i've been thinking about that too. it'll be much cheaper and probably work just fine. i started out wanting all hinson since i was upgrading anyway, but the $$ just kept going and going, and getting more complicated to make it all come together. that may be the best option yet. thanks guys.

i was just a little leery about that since my stocker hub has stress cracks all through it. i've had my shee for 4 years, so i suppose a new stocker should be fine for a while too. thanks led.

i have a new basket and pressure plate. do you have to run their inner hub also with the 8 plate set, or can you use a different inner hub and keep the 7 plate set up using their basket and p-plate? i also have a new tusk clutch kit, and was hoping to not have to switch to ALL hinson with the outrageous $$ 8 plate deal. if so what brands would you suggest and where do i find them? THANKS.

what do you mean by 'the boss'? your saying that you have to sand down the inside of the clutch cover right? there's not much there to sand off. is the 8 plate deal really worth the $$? i'm not that modified that i really need all of this, but if figured if i'm gonna do it, i'd rather go all out and not have to do it again in the near future, but damn, it'll be close to $500 just for the inner hub and the 8 plate kit.

WTF!! i've just ordered a hinson clutch set up and got a call and was told the inner hub has been discontinued for the 'stock' 7/6 plate set up, and that they only make it for the 8 plate now. i did't want their 8 plate so i have options in the future of using different brands clutch kits, not to mention the outrageous price for their kit. i hate to mix and match components from other brands too much, and i sure don't want to replace the inner hub with the stock pos. any advice besides ebay?

i just finished messing with it, and ordering some new stuff. i used the impact wrench to get the nut off, pretty easy actually. turns out the inner hub had major stress cracks visible on both sides, the pressure plate had about 5 noticable stress cracks, and the basket was mostly just the grooves on the tabs. rather than risk this stuff shattering and causing more problems, i've upgraded. Hinson basket w/cushions, Hinson pressure plate, Tusk HD clutch kit, and the Hinson inner hub will be ordered tomorrow am, depending on which place can get it sooner. hopefully it will all be here in a little over a week. clymer's referred to the inner hub as the clutch boss, and the clutch tool as the grabbit.

i had to go to a 360 main before i got the ring to appear, and i'm not mod'd up to much. just pipes, pro flow foam, and no lid. elevation about 1200ft.

ok, i've gotten so far as removing the plates, and there is some obvious wear from the plates on the basket grooves where they ride. the left side of each tab is pretty smooth, but the right side is grooved a little. where do you draw the line of replacing the basket? and how do you get that main nut off of there without the 'grabbit' clutch holder tool? the clutch boss also appears to have some hairline cracks around the base where the bolts go in. i'm not sure if they are stress cracks or just lines from the molding of the piece. any info would be greatly appreciated.

any comments anyone? i've been thinking about getting this for a long time. is it worth it, and will it require any other mods to compensate for it other than maybe jetting? and what about the spacers, do they do much good?

looks like i'm gonna at least need to get a plate and spring kit, probably the Tusk OR kit unless someone has some major objections. should i get the heavy duty kit or the standard. i've been told the hd kit makes the clutch really hard to pull.

a buddy of mine told me the same thing this afternoon. that's seems to be the concensus. i'm gonna rip it apart and as long as the basket and things are ok, i guess just a plate and spring kit should fix the problem. thanks elimn8u. i was also told that the heavy duty springs make the clutch super hard to pull. i'm probably gonna go with the Tusk clutch kit. any comments on heavy duty springs or should i just get the regular ones?

any slop is too much. just today, one of the guys i was riding with took a small jump down from a hill climb and the ball joint/a-arm let loose and he went for a roll. his actually pulled the ball joint out of the a-arm, ripping the nut off of the threads and over the cotter pin. he knew it was worn and had some slop, but figured he'd fix it sometime after today's ride. and to answer your other question, the ball joint cannot be replaced, it's welded to, or permanently part of the a-arm. like i told him, now you have an excuse to make upgrades.

update - ok, i've replaced the impeller, seal and bearing and it seemed to have solved the coolant in the oil problem. but my clutch is still slipping. it was perfectly fine before the impeller seal blew. nothing else has been changed or mod'd. i did run regular motor oil in it at first, drained it and did it again to clean it out, then put the belray 80w back in it, and it still slips. is it possible that the clutch plates are coated with antifreeze or something?? i figured it would have cleared up by now. i had my perch off to grind off the e-brake shit and make it look better, but it's still adjusted the same as before. i didn't touch the clutch itself when i did the impeller swap. could the coolant in there have done some permanent damage to the clutch?? i like excuses to upgrade but didn't really want to get into that just yet if there's an easy fix.