MILO

hmm... i tried neverdull on my pc's and it didn't work to well. mothers does wonders for them though. :shrug:

hey cracker, welcome aboard

that's what i was thinking too. besides, $500 worth of repair is hardly enough to call it fubar unless it is a real piece of shit to begin with. that's considered normal wear and tear costs for most guys. c'mon bud, what's the deal? what is supposedly wrong with your ride?

the domes basically reduce the space inside the cylinder, which creates greater compression. check out the chart on the bottom of this link's page http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

this is my clutch adjustment procedure, copied from my previous posts once you pull the cover off, or before, whichever, unhook your cable at the perch, since the adjustment there is way off. with the cover off, you'll see a nut on a stud w/ a phillips head in the center of the pressure plate on your clutch assembly. loosen this nut, holding the stud still if possible. with it loosened up, push on the push lever assembly (where your cable hooks at the motor) until it stops. you'll feel the freeplay and then tension where you almost can't push it anymore. hold it there, and use a phillips screwdriver to turn the stud, you should feel the lever moving as you turn it. there is an arrow on top of the motor near the push lever assembly. when the arrow on the push lever assembly lines up with this arrow, while holding it at the tension point, your clutch is adjusted properly. when you let go of the push lever, it should return beyond the arrow on the motor, towards the gearshift side. tighten up the nut to keep this adjustment correct. now hook up your cable again. you should be able to adjust it at the perch to where your lever has about 1/2" of freeplay, measuring from the tip of the lever to the handlebar. if you can achieve this without maxing out your perch adjuster, you are on the right track. if not, your cable may be stretched and need to be replaced. put it all back together and try it out. you may need to adjust the perch to your own liking afterwards. if after this adjustment the clutch is slipping, dragging or whatever, then you may need to replace the clutch kit or components. IF you feel like it while your in there the first time, pull the pressure plate off and inspect the basket, and all the plates for wear. if the basket fingers (where the fiber plates ride) has a lot of deep grooves in it, it should be replaced. or if any of the steel plates appear burnt (darkened) or warped when put on a flat surface, they need replaced. if the fiber plates are cracked, broken or smoothed out, they should be replaced. inside the shaft where the adjustment rod came out of, should be a rod about 6" long, and a ball bearing. use a magnet to pull them out, or maybe tip the bike on the side and hope they fall out. they should not show any signs of overheating (bluing) and should definitely not be stuck together. be carefull when putting this all back together because the steel plates need to start at a certain location, and the steels need the bump in them to alternate around the pressure plate at certain locations, or your clutch will not work properly.

that's where i put mine, i'm sure that's right. not being a smart ass, but where else would they go? :shrug:

doh :: i wonder if he's decided on a name yet :yelrotflmao:

:thumb:

welcome to the hq. congrats on the ride :thumb:

24:1 is pretty rich. i stuck with it for the initial break in when i bought my shee new for a few tanks. the oil was actually dripping out my tailpipes. so i switched to 32:1 and never looked back. that was about 5 years ago. manuals will tell you to mix on the rich side so that they are not held responsible for your motor blowing up if you would follow them telling you to mix 50:1 for example. besides, who are you gonna trust, the experts at the hq , or some stupid manual :tongue:

welcome to the hq. you've definitely come to the right place for banshee info. besides the hq, buy a clymer's manual. for $30 you'll have nearly all the step by step repair info you'll need at your fingertips. congrats on the new shee. mine is without a doubt the most addictive, costly, time consuming, fighting wife instigator i've ever owned. :yelrotflmao: you have no idea what you've gotten yourself into :shoothead:

hmmm... i'd stick with 32:1 with 2-r just to be on the safe side for your engine. i usually fill up my 5gal jug with 4 gal and drop a 16oz bottle of 2-r in it = 32:1

i agree. there are so many aftermarket options for practically anything on a banshee, so i can't see how it's non-repairable. it's just a matter of how much $$ it's gonna run you. anything can be repaired/replaced if you have enough cash and desire to do it. even if you need another motor to start with, if you have enough invested in other mods, it may be worth it to bolt up another engine.

thanks for all the responses guys, i think i'll hold off on the wallyworld bikes and check out a few of the local shops before doing anything. i currently have no intentions of being a hard core mtn biker, but you never know. i'm all for investing more in a better product that will pay off in the long run, but still don't want to get in too deep, at least not until i would happen to ride enough to make it worthwhile. :beer:

for whatever reason, my clymer's sais to only adjust the left side adjuster on top of the carbs, :shrug: that's how i did mine. i usually get a light and look through the intake box and watch the slides move as you lightly tap the throttle and see that they move together, also double check the sight windows in the side of the carbs. the screws on the tors box are more for idle adjustment- turn them equally as needed.

good job bigred. about the only thing i do differently is use my air compressor to blow out any jets and their seats, etc. lightly of course, you don't need 90lbs of air to get the dirt out don't forget to re-sync the carbs after you get her all back together also.

if you've read lots of posts about cold start problems, i'm assuming you've made sure the carb bowls aren't switched and the crossover tube is on, and compression is good. that being the case, i'd agree and say start with the pilot jet.

i'd say upgrade the air box w/a pro design or similar adaptor plate and good filters, and ditch the lid if your not riding in really wet areas or deep creek crossings, or at least ditch the snorkel, trim the back of the lid off about 2-3 inches or add some vents. you really need better airflow to get the best performance out of any pipes. of course rejetting will be required. i agree that suspension would be next. there's a wide variety of suspension set ups, it's all in how much $$ you can throw at it. maybe throw on some v-force cages/reeds for a little better throttle response. then a cool head w/ -- cc domes, porting, timing advance, ...

yeah, no shit. it's only taken me about 3.5 years to hit 1000 :baseball_shocked: , but most of them were within the past year. i've done a lot more reading than posting, but now with more experience with the shee, and learning from everyone elses posts, hopefully i can contribute more as well thanks bud. yeah, i try to only make posts that have merit to them, not just to rack up post counts i've learned quite a bit from loco's posts over the years, also been entertained :biggrin: i think lee bumped his up a few during one of the site rebuilds. i guess that's a benefit to administrative status. :tongue:

i'm looking into getting a mountain bike cuz i need the exercise and would love to get out on one. mostly on local roads and quad trails. this will be my first bike in about 15 years, lol, so i'm not looking for anything major like a cannondale, trek, etc. just enough to get me to the trails to play around and stuff, no cliff jumping or rock climbing, no way. i haven't been to any bike shops yet but good ole wallyworld (wal-mart) has a lot of mongoose bikes. i was looking at the blackcomb- seems to be top of the line there($280) seems pretty cool - ft and rr suspension, ft-rr disc brakes, shimano hardware, etc. i'm really looking to stay under $300, and this bike seems to be pretty cool. any experience or other suggestions? thanks.

i washed mine in hot soapy water, dried with air hose and towels, then oiled them up. just be sure to thoroughly dry them and not to let them sit for long after washing without putting oil on them. they'll start to show surface rust pretty quick.

i'd stick with dlnoss for the orings, and rmatv is pretty hard to beat for piston kit prices. you could probably have any of it shipped next day air thru ups if needed, for a few extra bucks of course.

i usually let them sit overnight, and toss in the steels so they're not dry either. maybe it's overkill, but i haven't been in that big of a rush to go any less. overnight sure won't hurt anything though. just make sure you use the same tranny oil you will be using in your ride all the time.

bud, i was cleaning my own carbs since i was about 12. no book, no instructions or help from anyone. i just tore it apart, cleaned her up and put it back together. no problems. if you don't experiment a little bit, you're never going to learn anything. not even the fact that you're being ripped off by paying somebody else to do it for you. my nephew (now 16) has been doing his own carb since the first time i showed him about 3 years ago. not all teenybopppers are worthless, ignorant, spoiled little shits who think they deserve everything handed to them or done for them. not saying that you are, but c'mon bud, you can't speak for all 14-20 year olds.

that's cool :thumb: it's good to see that they still respect the banshee and put up the pics in the magazine. too bad they didn't put up the mugs, or even names, but hey it's a start. maybe next time they'll hit up somebody for an interview, lol.