Blue Duece

Great way to put it Blue! I've determine that 13/41 compliments my riding style the best--mostly all around dune'n. thanks Rod i couldnt think of a better analigy of how i feel about gearing.....Got1 pmed me and was asking about gearing for passions motor, to be honest i really dont know what gearing he should run......if he spent a couple grand on his motor a 100 bucks in sprockets wont kill him, he will just have to find that sweet spot in his power band and gear accordinly...as we all do...at first i ran a 17 on my passion motor, but it was wild in the terrain i ride in so i went to my 15, that was to low...i put the 17 back on and now that its broke in and im used to it, the 17 rocks i can jump off the line in second, pull third and damm near leave it there, for the tracks im on, maybe slam the clutch in a corner here or there but it works great for my riding style and i notice with my passion stroker i dont have to wind it up for mx as i do with my trinity engine.......again we could speculate on how he should gear his bike but i think bottom line he will have to find out for himself what works for him........i know with what ever gearing he goes with jim at passions stroker will pull it fine, its just what does he need for his "style" of riding, some guys like to shift there ass off some guys like to use there clutch, for mx racing i think im the latter of the two......

i kinda like the "Hello Kitty" seat covers...www.toysrus.com......

i think it depends on your rideing style and terrain like rod said...i run a 17/40 and like it....i even like a 15/40..or 15/41..but i think if you had a vehicle with 500hp and one with a 100hp geared the same, its kinda pointless, ive raced shee's me with 80hp and the other guy 45hp, yet geared the same, granted i can go faster to get to top speed but wound out we are both going 80mph and the other guy is right on my bumper...but me with a 17 which the guy with 45hp cant pull past probally 4th gear, in 100 yards i finish at least 50 feet infront of him.... and on pavement could give him a 40 foot head start and still pass him before we get to the end of the street....to me and i could be wrong but a 15/41 feels different than a 14/38 allthough thats the same ratio ie. if instead of a 17 up front i ran a 14 but a 32 tooth in back it would feel different......just think back to riding a 10 speed bicycle........where your legs can feel what the motor does, with the different gearing, bringing the chain up in front is harder to pedal than dropping it in the back and going up in front makes the bycycle pull harder (if your legs dont give out).i have 41,40,38 rears and 13,14,15,16,17 counter sprockets a, 60 horse shee and an 80+ stroked shee....and have played with my gearing tons, ride mx and open desert and of course i think we all find a sweet spot with our motors and gearing, id like to hear from some of the drag guys, they feel there gear changes, but of course arnt climbing hills or going over whoops, i dont like my gears so tall i dont get front end lift at high speeds because i need that for obsticles whereas they dont......just my 2 cents

a stretched front end and for open riding the stock rear end is ok, great suspension ..the scotts stabilizer is a must its like auto pilot i can let go of my bars at high speeds and my bike tracks nice and straight....it doesnt twitch or veer........if yo think about keeping your banshee pinned for a long haul, thats what open desert riding is like, you dont need to climb or jump....just haul ass and hang on....

i think it would rip.......

the fronts basicly set the rear up to handle whats left of the impact, your fronts should absorb what it can and hand it to the rear...rebound is important in the rear it will slow down the travel from the bottom to the top.....when the bike hits a obsticle the rebound will slow down how fast the shock rises and the compression will slow down how fast the shock comes down from the relaxed position, i allways hit the track to adjust my shocks, or find some terrain that represents what youll ride in......you are just basicly trying to get your quad to track nice and dig in and not hop around......tracking is important for your fronts sometimes i run lots of rebound because the bumps are fast, so i try to time the majority of the hits so i can use rebound to have the shock up for the next impact but not be so slow it cant get up before the next rut, your fronts control your tracking and steering, if your fronts are out of wack the bike will veer and want to feel sqirmish, if its low and planted it will track real straight and feel "dug in" to your line........

just buy some decent rims?.....

aint that the truth........

its 1200 feet above sea level at the top of comp hill and 400-700 in the basins so you climb for a good 6-800 feet.....

LMAO....

if we ride out twards amargossa canyon behind the dunes theres tons of real fast washes with 6 foot walls to scurry through............ http://search.netscape.com/ns/boomframe.js...requestId%3D5e4 heres the pic from there home page, notice where it says comp hill is currently 1200 feet high, holy shit thats tall......see all that desert around the dunes Bennie, thats the shit.....

since we are all sportin wood, i might as well throw this in BigWill, Jim had my pj 34's waiting for my motor when it arrived........

that little bushing the rubber graument squeezes into has bearings? ya learn something new everyday.........

correct stan, along with his brother, rudolph.........who the fucck would name a kid rudolph anyway?

and Bonnie my friend, you can ride my jock Sir.....tehehehhehehehe

Damm just yer halfway there i dont wanna hear any shit from you, Jimbee could fix you right up buddy$$$$$

Sorry Rebel, most of you guys grab a sweatsock and a playboy, i go out to the garage with my bike

LMAO!!!. Better not Duece, I need the cash fo amphetamines...everytime you open your mouth, I sell 5 engines!...Thanks again...Jim Thats great Jimbo, in that case send my commission check to the same address..... for real Jim i cant say enough good stuff about your work..if i wasnt happy, man youd sure know it......im glad to hear your busy, i know i sure am, that word of mouth is the best advertising you can get, when you have happy clients, it feels good to hear them praise your work, it makes it all worth while......keep it up guy yer batting a 1000......

no, whats he do?

awww shit here we go......after gettin my engine back from passion i find i can now keep up with my daughter on her xr-70......beating the neighbor kids on there skateboards has also become a breeze.....for real that 450 is a fast ass bike and hooks up real nice......your real speed will come from gearing it tall....i have a friend with a 450, when i ran a 15/40 he was right on my ass but when i went 17/40 and was hooking up, i could pull away from him like he was standing still....if jim strokes your motor it will pull off of an idle like a son of a bitch, on pavment nothing on 4 wheels will catch you....i dont know what chassis mods or suspension you have, so i cant even begin to say what will happen in the dirt.....i know 80+ ponies will spin those tires tons with a stock swingarm in the dirt, a banshee is hard to get the power to the ground, the more you have the harder it is, but if you groom and moisten a mx track it will take a bad 450 to keep up with you providing you have a great chassis and suspension......the beauty of having that much pull is you can gear it tall as youd like and still pull it like you were running a 13 up front...i can jump on the track and stay in third if i want and accelerate like i was on a rz 350 or rd 400 on the street, your cheeks will rattle it pulls that fast and hard.....when im shifting into third a stock bansh is goin for 5th.....when a stock or piped shee is pulling 55 in fourth im doing 70.....

maybe this will help......Setting the rebound: 1.) Find a relatively fast straight with braking bumps leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away. 2.) Find a jump that tends to launch the quad out. The rear end should absorb and then smoothly lift the quad into the air. If the rear end bounces up, add rebound. (Turn clicker in) 3.) Find some large whoops. The quad should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheels extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described as above, it is packing and the rebound damping should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) ( these rules don't apply for sand.) Setting the compression: 1.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps on the exit. The rear of the quad should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the rebound two clicks.) (Turn clicker out) 2.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as small bump ride will be sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only affect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the track. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension.

wow there are bearings where your shock mounts to the frame? all ive ever seen is a rubber graumet.......

Scotts stabilizer...best one you can get and a must for the long haul through the desert.....you need to gear it tall also, you want to be able to haul ass yet still have some throttle left for obsticles, properly setup shocks will do wonders, the more cozy you can get your bike the better, a shock mounted steering stem helps also...its easy to stay pinned for a few minutes, but to avarage some speed takes endurance....practice on the roughest terrain you can find, and try to relax while your being pounded, its kinda like a baseball player swinging 2 bats before he comes up to the plate.....id go for suspension and chassis mods first.......

try turning the spring a little or spray some wd-40 where the spring hits the stops.....

yeah meat mine have rebound and compression.....i really need the rebound in this terrain...my elkas came setup properly also, the preload adjust is all the way up......on my rear elka if i leave the preload at the top it sits about 9-10 inches off the ground, great for a groomed track, if i crank the rear preload with an inch or so of thread showing it brings the ass end up, then i can go ride trails and desert with some clearence.......i cant say enough good things about elka and there service....and they are easy to swap springs on, my works shocks are a pain in the ass.....