jasonsb

I bought them from NYUK a couple months ago. They are black with polished silencers. I put new packing. Instead of chroming them, I might sell them and use the extra money to buy CPI. Sell $200

Yeah, I hear that CPI pipes are the shit too...but I saw an old post that showed a dyno chart with different pipes. I don't remember the details...I think the motor was a 370. The T5 pipes had like 68 hp and the CPI pipes had about 72.

I run a mild port motor with stock carbs and Toomey T5 pipes. I'm getting bored with the power. I ride the dunes and drag race for fun. I want to have more port work done and run bigger carbs. Is it worth the money to buy CPI pipes? I don't want to spend $550 + on new pipes just to gain 5 horsepower or so. Can a race motor run well with T5 pipes without making a switch to in frame drag pipes? Does anyone have experience with making the switch?

I've heard of people using blaster rods or pistons etc...I am just curious what blaster parts have to do with modifying a banshee? Is this related to stroker motors or long rod motors?

I'm working on my brother's bike and I would like to know how to modify the head so that you get more compression. I know that you have to have a machine shop shave or mill the head...but I don't know how much. I want the bike to have as much compression as possible without running race gas. The bike will be ran at about 5,000 feet elevation. Any advice would be helpful!

The needles do have normal movement. That wiggle your talking about is o.k. Did you take the two screws out that give you access to the needle clip? If you did, make sure you put them back correctly. As far as the needles not sliding into the hole, that's normal too. Your carbs are at a slight angle, so you have to manuver them back somehow.

Do you ride in sand? Bikes that ride sand are prone to burn cranks a lot quicker also. There are no filters in the world that can keep 100% sand out of the carbs. But I agree...your premix is probably not correct.

I did nun it wot a lot...but are you saying that you have to shut it down immediatley to get an accurate reading? Damm I won't get another chance to run it wot until my next riding trip. The bike is probably running on the richer side, so I'll go back to the B8ES plugs and try a WOT test next time out.

I tried a 30 pilot but it would die out when I pulled the choke out. I am using stock needles...I was thinking about Toomey needles if they are worth it. I was told to use the colder plug with porting and advanced timing. Someone let me know if they have experience with plugs.

I need two seat covers for custom bikes. The first one has to be red and yellow. It can have flames or strips. The other one can be solid green or green/black or green/white.

I'm not an expert in the details of the problem...but I would guess that your head o rings failed. Are you running an aftermarket head? The water runs right over the domes where your pistons are. Water must have leaked in the cylinders through the head.

Another pictures of the other plug:

Here is a picture of my plugs after a weekend(3 full days of riding) in Glamis. The bike seems to be jetted o.k. by the way it runs. I find myself changing the plugs after every trip. Is this normal. One side of the center porcelin piece is dark and the other half is tan. I am running the colder plugs BR9ES (Dune porting, +4 timing, 19cc domes, T5 pipes, twin K&N, 27.5 pilots, 340 mains, needle in middle)

I respect everyone's style and opinions...but if you are going to go longer on a swingarm, why spend your hard earned money for a swingarm that is only +2 longer than stock? (Aside from jumping) A +6 drags well, feels comfortable on dunes, and looks great!

I just went to the hardware store and bought two pieces of aluminum (3" x 1 1/2") and drilled two holes on each. Polished them up and bolted them on. Works perfect for $2.00 hangers.

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? TOOMEY T-5 2) What type of airfilter do you have? Twin K&N 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all No airbox 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) sea level 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 27.5 6) What size main jets are you using? 350 needle in middle 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 65-75 degrees

I forget the price...but there is a place near me(Los Angeles) that does the pegs, shifter, kicker for one price. Try asking them for a quote: search "RIS designs home"

Here's my red plastics with a graphics kit. It will be finished this month after everything is chromed.

any swingarm WILL fit. The only difference is the carrier. Earlier models have a slightly different looking carrier with only one chain adjustor. The inside components are a little different too. But they will all fit!

It's hard to see an arrow on the engine case because it's been welded or pieced together there. ("put pressure on")Do you mean I should slightly pull the hand lever while adjusting the center clutch nut? ("how does the bike shift?") It shifts o.k. 75% of the time. There are a few times when I have to kick the shifter hard to up shift when the bike is cold.

It's hard to know your interest since you have something many people need...take your pick of any of these even trades if you're interested: small stereo amplifier, cd's, dvd's, wrist watches, youth softball bat, tools, palm planner, computer ink cartridges, wetsuit, etc. These are some non off-roading items.

I don't know about porting the cages but a good set of reeds to buy are Boyeson Pro Series (about $50). V-force will last longer if you have the money!

Vito's Performance Banshee will have many things you will need for your banshee. He charged shipping so it's nice to buy a few things at a time if you need upgrades or replacement parts. For jets, try the dealer first.

There is a barnett clutch post below, but my problem is a little bit diffferent. My bike does move a little with the lever pulled in. I normally don't make this a habit but I noticed this because my bike is hard to put into nuetral with the bike turned on. I tried adjusting the hand lever, but I'm not sure which way to move the cable ( I tried both ways and no luck) So, now I think I should take the clutch cover off and adust from there. Which way should I move the arrow? (toward the left or right foot?) Also, any recommendations on gear oil?

Thanks for all the good advice. I finally got the bike to run good with 27.5 pilots, 340 mains, and needle in the middle. I think I might have swithed slides last time and it was making my bike hard to start with the 27.5 the first time. Someone had mentioned one carb bowl having a tube. I think that both my carbs have the metal tube. Is this really bad? The bike was like that when I bought it used 2 years ago. I never had any problems before I ported the cylinders. Should I buy a new carb bowl or just run it like that?