jasonsb

Thanks for the responses. I will take the cover off and have a look. I do have the manuel...but I never touched it so I didn't even think about checking it.

After replacing my clutch, my kickstarter gets stuck on the down kick once in a while. I can eventually start the bike but I know that this is not normal. Sometimes it does not grab and I end up slamming my foot down. What could I have down wrong?

I need a stock motor with the transmission. I prefer the motor be complete with crank, gears, clutch, stator, and cylinders. I don't care if the carbs, head, and covers are missing. Even willing to buy a motor that needs a new top end!

Has anyone ever been to the Rosarito sand dunes? I've heard it's a small place but fun to ride if you like to drag and mess around on the beach. Going this weekend to ride and party at night.

I have been running an aftermarket aluminum intake. These intakes make your carbs stick way out because they are so thick. I've always had to duck tape my fuel line because they rub on the pipes. Now, the tape did not work and the pipe burned through the fuel line. Will I lose performance by going back to the stock intakes to bring my carbs down closer to the cylinders? Or would a steel braided fuel line work? I'm pissed off because the intakes costs a shit load...just for looks.

Florescent Orange or Green frame with white plastics. Finish it with chrome and polishing

I've gotten some great responses in the past on this forum. Now I'm asking everyone out there if they have a few more parts to sell. I need tie rod ends (or the complete tie rods), spindles (knuckles), rear master cylinder, rear brake resevoir, and a seat. THANKS!

Anyone have reasonable parts for sale (Some ebay sellers think their parts are made of gold): I need... upper a arms, tie rod ends, rear brake caliper, rear master cylinder, front spindles (knuckles).

I like the washes. I don't know why everyone keeps saying it sucks. If it sucks, why is it always packed? I personally, like to go party, non-stop, sleepless, drop dead on the last day kind of trip.

Sometimes I get confused with "moving the needle up/down". Do you mean making the needle one notch leaner or richer? I have it one notch richer than the middle just because I couldn't get it to idle. I will try 30 pilots and then put the needle one notch leaner from the middle. I was told that it will run better because I have boyeson reeds. What about a bog when climbing a hill 1/2 - full throttle?

Just curious how what the best set-up is on the rear stock shock for racing up hills? By this I mean, do you sand hill climbers adjust your rear shock soft, medium, or hard (for a +6 swingarm). What is the best setting for gliding over the whoops on the bottom of the hill?

I don't know how old this forum is, but all you have to do is buy the replacement rubber intake boots (about $15 each). They sell them all over: wicked atv, vito's, etc.. I just replaced my 34 size with 26-28 sizes.

I took the carbs off last night and noticed that the throttle clip inside the slide was covering the hole...if it matters...just a thought since reading one of the forum yesterday that talked about covering the holes inside the slide.

It did run better with the choke pulled out. The strange thing is that the plugs were white just from me running it hard a few times in 1st-3rd gear. It ran strong at WOT on the flats but fell on its face when I tried to race up a hill. It felt like I was going from 2nd to 4th gear. I haven't replaced the plugs so I can't tell you how the 350 jetting worked. Also, what about the needle position? SHould I put it in the middle or 1 notch lean? (stock cages with boyeson pro reeds, dual K&N filters) **air screws were 1 turn out

Just got back from Glamis...I spent the whole time playing with the jetting. Here's what happened: It was the first ride since putting the stock carbs back on my mid ported motor. I took the bike up to Glamis with 340 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle in middle. The bike was VERY hard to start. I had to really increase the idle just to get it to start. I ran it as much as I could ...it kept stalling on me. The plugs were white(lean) but I didn't get a chance to run it WOT in 6th. So, I changed the jets to 350, same pilot(couldn't find parts), needle one notch rich. Now I could run it but it bogs nasty going up hills or steep dunes. Can someone please help if they have experienced this?

These guys think they are sneaky: People selling tiny ass items on ebay and have a shipping rate charge of $15.00 just to make a little extra money. What the f---. The box gets to your house and read "$2.25 shipping"

A couple days ago, I saw a post that listed a site that had K&N filters and outerwears real cheap. I think they were being sold somewhere for 59.00. If anyone remembers or knows what I'm talking about, please post the name of the company or website again! Thanks

Two things: Can you run race fuel and not have any problems? YES Do you need to run race fuel? You need to know your compression and mods just as stated above.

Are you running big carbs? That will cause a lot of stiffness. Other than that, have you changed anything, or has it always been like that. Stiffness in the thumb is normal when riding for a long time at a time.

I bought new plugs and will next try to get the idle and air screws dialed in. ANyone have an idea where to start...I turned everything so much that I don't remember what it used to be set at? (33 pwk keihin) sea level 60-75 degree riding. Will the rich mixture 25:1 keep causing the plugs to be fouled? How long should I run it rich to break the motor in? It has about 3 hours.

You can use stock carbs with 370 kits and/or with milding ported motors. Going to a bigger carb will make your bike run crappy unless you have race porting and good pipes. The stock carbs will perform well with your set-up....just have to rejet the carbs richer. I use stock carbs with my set-up below: dual K&N filters plus everything listed below. Spending money on boring the carbs or 28 mm carbs is not worth it. You can use that money for porting.

Thanks for all the good advice. However, going to a 9 or 10 paddle is not an option right now...I already bought them. I assumed that going down a tooth in the front would help in the sand and hill climbing. Before I changed paddles , I used to run v-paddles (sand sharks) and it would struggle up big hills. I had to stay in 3rd or 4th...using stock gearing 14-41. I bought a 13 tooth but haven't put it on yet. I weigh 180 and want the bike to hit 5th gear going up hills. How much air pressure will be good in the sand for my weight?

"Spoin39" was cool enough to send me his stock needles. I did check the needle clip position. I took the needles completely off and compared the two. One was thinner and way longer. I don't know if the longer one was Toomey...but it was definitely longer and it was working fine on the quad it was taken off of.

I will definitely try that! That might be why I can't get the bike to idle also. I keep playing with the idle and air/mix screws, but it's very inconsistent.

I just rebuilt the top end on one of my bikes. No modifications, same set-up. So, I'm running it rich to break it in (25:1). It ran choppy for the first hour. It sounds like it's missing until I hit 1/2 throttle. Then, I tried to take it on a second ride and it died after I pulled away (10 seconds). It wouldn't start anymore. I took the plug off and cleaned it. The plug tip was dark and wet. I cleaned the plug and it started....and again it died after I pulled away. It wouldn't start anymore again. It sounds like a bog or like I'm out of gas..then it just dies out. Could it be the carbs (33 pwk) or an electrical problem?