Dextreme

Let me know how it runs and if you change your gearing. I am really happy with how Chad set mine up.

This is saaaweeet....Sand rules! Thanks BHQ!

Alot of people are recommending the Sidewinder chain and sprockets. So far, I have been happy with my DID X-ring ATV chain and steel sprockets for the sand.

Zach, I locked the post...I didn't personally Ban you. I think you post would have gone over better if you would have explained what it was you were doing. It came across to me that you were trying to cause chaos. Lets keep the issue on BT and not bring it to BHQ.

Best way to remove Stickers: Peal off, then use rubbing Alcohol to remove any sticky residue.

Here is a pretty good guide on extending it. I did mine +4 and did it a little differently. http://www.westcoastatv.com/Technical/Swin...swingarmext.htm

It is true that Synthetic is probably "the best" in terms of the gears, but not for the clutch fibers.

True... I understand that what you "don't" want to use is Synthetic oils.

Good point...Banshee is still the "King of the Dunes" and there's no dedicated dune forum.

Otis, when you buy a flag, it will come with a mounting bolt/nut. I highly recommend getting a steel whip. Fiberglass ones are half the cost, but break everytime you rollover....hence, back to the toolbox ya go.

I also very highly recommend the ODI lock on grips....no glue!!!!

I personally haven't tried this on rims, but EasyOff oven cleaner in the Yellow can will remove anodizing. (I am not sure if the rims are clearcoated though.) Easy off will also turn the alum greyish black, so you would then have to then buff and maybe even wet sand em back to a shine. I have used easyoff to remove the anodizing off of lot of alum R/C parts, so it should work.

I had a 350x and then got a chance to try out buddy's banshee. Once I felt that "pipe hit"....I was sold!

Why not just use a dab of blue lock-tight on the outer nut? The tape idea is a good temporary fix though.

Nitromethane is something that can be added to Methanol. It doesn't mix with gas. I am not sure on the timing, but I know you have to get much bigger jets and there have been plenty of blown motors with people toying with it. I does make lots of HP though when dialed in.

Reed Spacers really don't give you a performance gain. They are useful in situations when the carbs need to be moved back for clearance reasons.

A 40 tooth rear might give you the extra slack you need. If you are able to pull 15/41, going to 15/40 should work.

That is why a hacksaw blade works well....no melting.

Personally I wouldn't change it to +7 unless ya have adiquate time to do some testing with it before the race.

I prefer using a blade from a hacksaw so ya have more control. I throw a little duct tape on one end of the blade for a temporary handle.

The only time my shee fouls plugs is when riding at high alt (4000+) when it is jetted for sea level.

If it seems to be stiffer than normal. Take the cover off the thumb throttle and inspect it for dirt/sand. There is a drainhole in there that allow crud to get in there and then ends up going down your cable. If there is lots of crud in there, remove your cables and douch with carb cleaner (or replace). Then seal up that hole with shoe goo or silicon.

Banshee's will just spin and overheat in the snow unless you can run paddles. If you don't have access to old crappy paddles, lowering your air pressure way down (on your knobbies) to about 2 psi will help get some traction.

I have had buddies that have ran for a few years with +4 timing with and unwelded crank and finally the crank started separating. Its one of those things that ya never know "when". I would just plan for it the next time you do a rebuild.

Kenr, who is cutting your head? I am having Chad cut mine to .065, but he is reworking the squish and o-ringing it.