2001SSTBanshee

I've got a durablue stock width axle with very good condition stock hubs on it. It was rode on for about a yr. All splines are still in very good condition, and of coarse the axle is still straight. The durablue sticker is even still looking good. $150 + shipping. I can email pics if interested. I just remembered, that the axle did come with the "spacers" like other adjustable axles, but they are only about 1/2 inch each, so both will widen you about 1".

I've got a rear custom AXIS, dual adjustable, single spring, remote res. with very, very little riding time on it for $550 shipped (US) Set up for approx 165-185 lb rider. I'm selling it because I dont have a shee anymore and the aftermarket bill for the YFZ is going through the roof. I can email pics if interested.

I've got a rear custom AXIS, dual adjustable, single spring, remote res. with very, very little riding time on it for $550 shipped (US)

Only thing I found to work is #0000 steel wool and a lot of elbow grease.

Yeah let me know when you see one.. So I can stomp it with my YFZ!

Early 99 Ford 550 4x4 crew manual Powerstroke with Ball Bearing Turbo, Western Diesel exhaust and Ram Air, BD X box digital monitoring, etc, etc....

The difference is one has a resistor and one doesn't. "R"

How much is the service honda 250r? I dont remember but I bet it was less than 30 grand.

Got my F-550 powerstroke "former banshee hauler" and whatever is around at the time that I feel like throwing the dealer tag on.

Also, I wouldnt buy the duramax for the same reason I wont buy the new 6.0 powerstroke. I dont wanna be the test rat for such an expensive truck, too new and not proven IMO.

Not to be rude, but thats not any weight at all. Try my 11,000 pound fifth loaded with water, bikes and gear (probably about 13,000, plus probably more than 1500 pounds of steel flatbed and grill guard) Hook up with a duramax and watch it up and down shift over and over trying to keep speed up. I use a F-550 with 7.3 powerstroke, so I am biased too, also not a real fair comparison of trucks. Another point Id like to make: (of coarse Im biased here too, because I'm a used car dealer) is why buy brand new? For probably around 12-15 grand less than what you're planning on spending you could get an extra nice truck with low miles still under factory warranty and go with whatever make you want. Used doesn't mean old. I've already seen 2 new F150's at auctions and they've been out for what? 4 months?

My YZ250F

Tire pressure, chain/sprockets, brakes, suspension, tie rod ends, controls, etc. Change oil often, change plugs and bring some, keep a clean, oiled air filter, keep the bike clean Yamaha says to use white lithium grease

Holyman- AMSOIL Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30 Heavy-Duty Diesel Oil

I dont worry about that in FL but if I had to put it up.... First, of coarse, start real clean Use Some gas stabilizer like Pri-G or Stabil (make sure its in the carbs) Plug your pipes Grease fittings a small shot of 2cycle oil in the spark plug holes and 1 slow kick WD-40 all over everything except brake pads and rotors Might as well check bearings, breaks,sprockets, controls, tires, etc etc.. so you can order it now and have it when its time to ride. Anyone think of anything else?

Gap should be (.7 - .8 mm) or (.028 - .031in) straight from the manual...

I want a YFZ450 bad, but I think Im gonna wait. It looks like it an 01 raptor tranny situation all over again. Check out YFZcentral, they are trying to collect vin #'s of bikes with major shifting problems. Plus I know a tech at my local Yamaha, and guess what, service is full of 450's with tranny problems. Sucks, I already got a deal worked out ($7180 OTD) which is a good deal, but now Im having secound thoughts!

Holyman- Not starting a fight, but what's with the amsoil? I've never used it in 2 stroke, but I studied all information I could on it for vehicles. First of all, I do believe that synthetic oil is better than "dino". However, this is my main problem with amsoil: It's not API certified. That means if I use it in my $7000 powerstroke motor (which has a 100,000 mile warranty) at say 20,000 miles, ford can automatically void my warranty for using an oil that is not certified. Of coarse they would have to find out what kind of oil was in there, but I bet most people who buy it dont know about the certification issue, so if they were asked they would probably proudly say "Amsoil". Oops! Back to 2-stroke- I'd like to hear from someone with experience using Schaeffers mix. (molybdenum trialkyldithiocarbamate- yes its a real word and its some slick stuff) Im probably gonna start using it in my R. If anyone can think of a good way to test 2 stroke oils I'll supply the schaeffer.

Exactly. And oh yeah "AYE!"

Interesting, I dont know anything about iridium (yet) but Im learning.

We're ordering all the stock bolts at a discount, and getting them zinc plated.

why longer?

Look like fatties to me too, They definately are NOT sst's.

My theory on splitfire plugs: Electricity will travel the shortest distance right? So if one tip is a teeny tiny bit closer than the other one all the spark will take that route. Plus spark plugs dont really generate spark, the "spark" just kinda runs through it. The spark is made by the stator and pulse generator, right?? So how is a high dollar spark plug gonna make "better spark" Just MY thoery, correct me if Im wrong.

B = Thread diameter (14mm) R = Resistor 8 = Heat rating (spark) E = Thread reach (12.7mm) S = Standard electrode (VX) = Platinum electrode The last letter(s) describe the firing end. cant remember what the G would mean though.