banshee21 Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 ok I am new to the banshee and everything I have ever owned was pretty easy to give throttle. I got stock carbs with tors removed. I check to see if the cable was bad or in a bind but everthing was ok. and my throttle box is good to. Would it make since if the springs in the carbs are to stiff. or maybe it is normal for the banshee b/c it has to pull of course two needles instead of one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 (edited) you can cut 2 coils off the springs ontop of the slides and stretch them back out. also look into an extended thumb throttle if you dont have one already Edited March 24, 2008 by Bansh-eman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee21 Posted March 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 i will try the cutting of the 2 coils and strectch it back out. and I dont have a thumb throttle extention Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 i would get a extender first and see if thats better. then if its not enough cut the spring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2001Stroker Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 I asked something to this effect last week. Chariot Performance replied that I can fix it with their billet thumb throttle. I haven't bought one, but I'm starting to think more and more about it. It's a little pricy, but if it takes alot of the thumb fatigue away, it might be worth it. I think they only sell on EBay. Here's their link. http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?f...&category0= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee21 Posted March 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 ok well I cut the springs and it didnt change much but now when I am riding it sticks wide open. so I pulled it back into the garage and it is those stupid little brass plugs or whatever you want to call them pop out alittle. so i took the top of the carb and puched it back in worked good for about 10 minutes and it did it again. any idea what the problem is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 I asked something to this effect last week. Chariot Performance replied that I can fix it with their billet thumb throttle. I haven't bought one, but I'm starting to think more and more about it. It's a little pricy, but if it takes alot of the thumb fatigue away, it might be worth it. I think they only sell on EBay. Here's their link. http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?f...&category0= you dont have to buy a whole new throttle assembly... you can buy just the billet thumb extender. modquad and cascade both have them for like 45 bucks. ok well I cut the springs and it didnt change much but now when I am riding it sticks wide open. so I pulled it back into the garage and it is those stupid little brass plugs or whatever you want to call them pop out alittle. so i took the top of the carb and puched it back in worked good for about 10 minutes and it did it again. any idea what the problem is? what brass plugs are you talking about? the adjuster on top of the carbs? what carbs are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee21 Posted March 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 I am running stock carbs with tors removed. they are the little brass things that are on the inside of both carbs not the side facing out, the sides facing towards each other. it is where the one long groove on the carbs slide ride up and down on. an another issue showed itself. whenever it idles it idles on just the right cylinder. when you get into it you can here the other cylinder kick in. you really cant hear any sounds coming out of the left cylinder you can here the headpipe pinging but not a hole lot of sounds coming from cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgbanshee Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 Did whoever removed the TORS drill and tap the sides for the brass idle screws? Or are you adjusting the idle with the screws on the carb tops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 I am running stock carbs with tors removed. they are the little brass things that are on the inside of both carbs not the side facing out, the sides facing towards each other. it is where the one long groove on the carbs slide ride up and down on. an another issue showed itself. whenever it idles it idles on just the right cylinder. when you get into it you can here the other cylinder kick in. you really cant hear any sounds coming out of the left cylinder you can here the headpipe pinging but not a hole lot of sounds coming from cylinder. i cant remember what stock carbs look like so i cant help you there, but you need to get a carb sync tool and get those puppies synced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinner Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 i cant remember what stock carbs look like so i cant help you there, but you need to get a carb sync tool and get those puppies synced. He is talking about the brass piece on each carb that sticks out about 1/16th of an inch, maybe not even on the inside of the carbs along the slide walls. They are there to keep the slide from spinning around in the carb so that the slanted part of the slide will stay facing the rear of the carb (towards the air filter). I'm pretty sure this is what he is talking about... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosBanshee44 Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 I don't think he's talking about that i think there is another brass part for the inside that keeps the spring assembly together. I haven't seen stock carbs in a while but maybe that's what he's talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregrob Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 I have 3 coils cut off my springs and it made a huge difference in the stiffness of the thumb throttle. Did you put a new throttle cable on with the tors delete? Did you lube it? You know they don't come pre-lubed right? I would soak the cable down inside with lube and clip another round off the springs. Should make a big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbAnyHill Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 Did you cut the top or bottom of the springs? If you cut the bottom it could get hung up on the brass clip that secures the cable. If it's the slide guide then it's not a prob since it's adjustable. I cut two rings off my springs & got a new thumb throttle. Besides the extended lever, the mechanism in the housing is built different for a smoother push. Also added a Motion Pro steel braided cable, it bends & guides easier. I can dune & trail ride thru the whole tank without a tired thumb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nayr742003 Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 He is talking about the brass piece on each carb that sticks out about 1/16th of an inch, maybe not even on the inside of the carbs along the slide walls. They are there to keep the slide from spinning around in the carb so that the slanted part of the slide will stay facing the rear of the carb (towards the air filter). I'm pretty sure this is what he is talking about... thats what he is talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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