Wheelie Ripper Posted August 7, 2008 Report Posted August 7, 2008 Hi, I have a 95 Banshee that ran very well until my stator bolts backed out and the stator hit the flywheel. I ordered a ricky stator before reading posts on here about them. The bke starts right up and run great for about 10 minutes and then starts bogging like crazy. If you let it sit for about 35-40 minutes or longer, it will start right up and run great for about 10 minutes and then run like garbage until you let it cool off. Background on the bike is I put in a ricky stator stator, I also changed it to between +4 and +5 advance timing. I run 50/50 mix of super ad vp red with honda HP2 oil mixed at 32:1. Bike has 125 psi compression in both cylinders when cold. I was wondering if it is possible that this stator is the problem. Today I will ohm it out, then ride it until it acts up and then ohm it again and see if that could be the culprit. Any ideas of what could be wrong and am i over looking anything? Thanks for any help. Quote
fastrthnu Posted August 7, 2008 Report Posted August 7, 2008 Hi, I have a 95 Banshee that ran very well until my stator bolts backed out and the stator hit the flywheel. I ordered a ricky stator before reading posts on here about them. The bke starts right up and run great for about 10 minutes and then starts bogging like crazy. If you let it sit for about 35-40 minutes or longer, it will start right up and run great for about 10 minutes and then run like garbage until you let it cool off. Background on the bike is I put in a ricky stator stator, I also changed it to between +4 and +5 advance timing. I run 50/50 mix of super ad vp red with honda HP2 oil mixed at 32:1. Bike has 125 psi compression in both cylinders when cold. I was wondering if it is possible that this stator is the problem. Today I will ohm it out, then ride it until it acts up and then ohm it again and see if that could be the culprit. Any ideas of what could be wrong and am i over looking anything? Thanks for any help. you put in a ricky stator (stator) or flywheel? either way they both suck. what octane are you running? with only 125lbs it shouldnt matter much but... I see with these stators the ground wire on them is soldered very poorly, and causes then to heat up extremely to the point they will just burn up rendering them useless. Make sure you pickup gap is correct. And make sure your at +4 or 5 and not -4 or 5. the number should be right about in the line where your 2 case halves match up. Quote
Wheelie Ripper Posted August 7, 2008 Author Report Posted August 7, 2008 you put in a ricky stator (stator) or flywheel? either way they both suck. what octane are you running? with only 125lbs it shouldnt matter much but... I see with these stators the ground wire on them is soldered very poorly, and causes then to heat up extremely to the point they will just burn up rendering them useless. Make sure you pickup gap is correct. And make sure your at +4 or 5 and not -4 or 5. the number should be right about in the line where your 2 case halves match up. Im running a mix of VP red which i think is 110 and 92. I put a ricky stator Stator in which is what I think may be my culprit. I am almost 100 percent sure I'm at +4 or 5 because it does run stronger then before when it does run well. Im going to check that ground now, if it is just soldered poorly, should i just relocate it? Thanks for the help Quote
Wheelie Ripper Posted August 7, 2008 Author Report Posted August 7, 2008 Ok, I checked the gap on my pickup coil which is fine, checked the ground and that looked ok and ohmed out ok. I did notice that when when I let it cool off a little bit, the source coil in the stator had about 20 ohms and ran great, as soon as it warmed up and started running like garbage i found it had about 25 ohms. Could this be my problem since specs are between 13.7 and 20.5? Quote
travis6767 Posted August 7, 2008 Report Posted August 7, 2008 that doesnt sound like its the problem, is it doing anything else other than bogging? have you looked at the plugs to see what they look like? Quote
Wheelie Ripper Posted August 7, 2008 Author Report Posted August 7, 2008 that doesnt sound like its the problem, is it doing anything else other than bogging? have you looked at the plugs to see what they look like? Plugs look fine, I switched them out and there is no difference. its not so much of a bog, but there is a hesitation and it doesn't have as much power as it should when it acts up. the exhaust pitch sounds deeper too. All this happened after the rs stator was installed Quote
travis6767 Posted August 7, 2008 Report Posted August 7, 2008 i guess i maybe the stator. i have had people tell me ricky stator is good and other say they sre bad. i have ricky stator ,stator,cdi box, adjustable timing plate, and pick up coil and i have no problems, if you have any friends with banshees you may want to try one of there stators, before you buy anything else to fix the problem Quote
travis6767 Posted August 7, 2008 Report Posted August 7, 2008 it so weird that it only does it after it has warmed up, i dosent make since, if it happened all the time i could be a bad reed,or bad gas,or many other things like a ripped intake boot Quote
BenBB Posted August 7, 2008 Report Posted August 7, 2008 Ok, I checked the gap on my pickup coil which is fine, checked the ground and that looked ok and ohmed out ok. I did notice that when when I let it cool off a little bit, the source coil in the stator had about 20 ohms and ran great, as soon as it warmed up and started running like garbage i found it had about 25 ohms. Could this be my problem since specs are between 13.7 and 20.5? I would suspect that's the problem, but have you tried calling Ricky Stator? I ran their a-arms for a long time a few years ago and one of their stock stators for a little while before going to the RZ mill (which the stock RZ stator I started with also died on me, running an Electrex now...maybe not relavent here but you literally have to kick it over like a gorilla because I don't think I wired the low-RPM coil right, they weren't too helpful when I emailed, anyway I don't think factory Yamaha stators are built to last heh), and every time I called and talked to someone there @ RS they WERE helpful. That may not be the case anymore but I think it would be worth a try, especially since you found a different resistance... Quote
Wheelie Ripper Posted August 7, 2008 Author Report Posted August 7, 2008 I talked to RS and they said I can send it in and they can test it out on their banshee. It is really strange how it only does it after you ride for a few minutes, then the power just drops off. The raised edges on the fly wheel got a little chewed up when the bolt came out of the old stator, but that doesn't explain to me why it runs great when first started and then like crap. Maybe the CDI has a thermal high or low resitance internally but I have no clue. Quote
1qwkgoat Posted August 7, 2008 Report Posted August 7, 2008 I'm having the exact same problem, my bolts backed out so I bought a ricky stator stator and a adj plate set it at 4 degree's it ran fine for about 20 minutes then the lights stopped working and then it started bogging and hesitating, then quit. That was last night I came home today and it started right up but after a few minutes it got to where it wouldn't idle or run right at low rpms at all. I'll check the ohmns on mine. I also talked to RS and they said send it back. Quote
Wheelie Ripper Posted August 8, 2008 Author Report Posted August 8, 2008 I'm having the exact same problem, my bolts backed out so I bought a ricky stator stator and a adj plate set it at 4 degree's it ran fine for about 20 minutes then the lights stopped working and then it started bogging and hesitating, then quit. That was last night I came home today and it started right up but after a few minutes it got to where it wouldn't idle or run right at low rpms at all. I'll check the ohmns on mine. I also talked to RS and they said send it back. Let me know if that fixes it, i leave for school in 4 days and wont have time to mess with mine until break so I am interested to see if that fixes it. 1 Quote
mdhc500 Posted August 8, 2008 Report Posted August 8, 2008 (edited) Ok, I checked the gap on my pickup coil which is fine, checked the ground and that looked ok and ohmed out ok. I did notice that when when I let it cool off a little bit, the source coil in the stator had about 20 ohms and ran great, as soon as it warmed up and started running like garbage i found it had about 25 ohms. Could this be my problem since specs are between 13.7 and 20.5? In theory resistance increases with temperature... Someone else that started a thread and is having the same problem as you... What you guys do have in common=RS... ??? Something else... You mentioned the CDI box... Now this might just being grasping at straws but my CDI box just died... I noticed the past few rides my Shee seemed to run a bit amiss at WOT after about 20 30 minutes into the ride... I really didnt think to much about it because it was in the high 90's and I was in the process of jetting, so I thought maybe it was jetting, but in retrospect my jetting was dialed in at that point... I dunno... electrical stuff is weird! I just spent the past week trouble- shooting my very own electrical issues and found the CDI box was toast! If you guys need parts PM NYUK... He'll take care of you... Good luck guys... Edited August 8, 2008 by mdhc500 Quote
Wheelie Ripper Posted August 8, 2008 Author Report Posted August 8, 2008 In theory resistance increases with temperature... Someone else that started a thread and is having the same problem as you... What you guys do have in common=RS... ??? Something else... You mentioned the CDI box... Now this might just being grasping at straws but my CDI box just died... I noticed the past few rides my Shee seemed to run a bit amiss at WOT after about 20 30 minutes into the ride... I really didnt think to much about it because it was in the high 90's and I was in the process of jetting, so I thought maybe it was jetting, but in retrospect my jetting was dialed in at that point... I dunno... electrical stuff is weird! I just spent the past week trouble- shooting my very own electrical issues and found the CDI box was toast! If you guys need parts PM NYUK... He'll take care of you... Good luck guys... That is my only other guess is the CDI and there is no way to test it so I am lost. All my wiring checks out, resistances are all in spec, RS said that the increase in my stator is normal with temperature so it is very possible that it is a CDI issue, Quote
1qwkgoat Posted August 8, 2008 Report Posted August 8, 2008 Got home yesterday it started right up, power for the lights, so I guess the regualtor went out so that explains the lights. Swapped cdi no difference, still wont idle or run under about 1500 rpm. At the rpm it would normally idle at it sounds completely different and wont run. Put the stock sator back on no difference, timing at 4,3, and stock no difference. It will how ever idle with the choke on, or if you let it die when idleing with the choke off you must choke it to restart. I have my idle screws all the way in(slides up) And adjusted the air bleeds from .5 to 3 turns out and it didn't ever want to run right. My coil is a few weeks old and checks in specs it starts the first kick. I took it to my girlfriends step dad he makes a living building sand drag four wheelers, so he is gonna straighten it out for me. I'll let you know what he says it was. Quote
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