J-Madd Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 I don't want to make my own tester. I want to buy a complete tester, with plugs for both big flange and small flange exhaust, and 39 mm intakes. Where can I get this? Or will someone make it for me. Quote
dajogejr Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 I don't want to make my own tester. I want to buy a complete tester, with plugs for both big flange and small flange exhaust, and 39 mm intakes. Where can I get this? Or will someone make it for me. Call Bob @ RB Racing. About 50 or so plus shipping. He normally has a few kits on ebay, but I haven't seen one in a week or so. Good guy...sells a nice kit he puts together himself. 517-388-3662 Quote
ahcgt Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 I don't want to make my own tester. I want to buy a complete tester, with plugs for both big flange and small flange exhaust, and 39 mm intakes. Where can I get this? Or will someone make it for me. I got mine from a parts supply store like advanced auto, car quest, oreilly's. I think it was around $40. For no more than I use it, it has always worked fine. Quote
dajogejr Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 I got mine from a parts supply store like advanced auto, car quest, oreilly's. I think it was around $40. For no more than I use it, it has always worked fine. Do you mean a compression tester or LEAK Down tester... I've never seen a leak down tester at Pep Boys, Murray's, Advanced Auto or Autozone. I see compression testers all the time. Quote
J-Madd Posted June 17, 2008 Author Report Posted June 17, 2008 Thanks. I've checked at all local auto parts stores, and they don't have them. Dave..I saw those when I searched, and as you said they were not on e-bay anymore. I'll give him a call. Quote
Bansh-eman Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 You can buy a leakdown that connects to your compressor from harbor frieght, you will need to buy the plugs but thats nothing more then some pvc caps for the intakes from lowes and some rubber gromments to cover the exhaust. Quote
dajogejr Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 I don't want to make my own tester. I want to buy a complete tester Gotta excuse bansh-eman, Jarid...he's still working through the coloring books and Curious George series....LOL... Quote
J-Madd Posted June 17, 2008 Author Report Posted June 17, 2008 Gotta excuse bansh-eman, Jarid...he's still working through the coloring books and Curious George series....LOL... Well, he didn't give me a link :biggrin: I welcome all responses, but I think I'm going with Dave's suggestion. My Cheetah has developed a massive air leak...it wants to keep running after killing the ignition after only idling for a minute or so. I can't even purge it b/c it gets too hot idling. Quote
Hilarious Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 motion pro has one for like, 250 bucks.... http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Motion...--56-MP-10.html Quote
Bansh-eman Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 motion pro has one for like, 250 bucks.... http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/Motion...--56-MP-10.html 250? those fools are nuts! Quote
J-Madd Posted June 17, 2008 Author Report Posted June 17, 2008 250? those fools are nuts! Just ordered one from Bob for $58 shipped. Will be shipped out today or tommorrow. Quote
dajogejr Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 Just ordered one from Bob for $58 shipped. Will be shipped out today or tommorrow. You should've told him I sent you, you could've got it for 57.99 shipped...LOL. One of these days, I'm gonna have to buy that kit. I keep saying I'm going to...but damn I like go fast parts...LOL. Quote
deckheight Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 I can make you a sanitary, turn key setup for about $120.00. It is banshee specific. Has OEM banshee intake bolt pattern and attaches to the reed cage area of the cylinders using OEM 6mm intake manifold bolts so the carbs, intake and reed have to come off. Billet aluminum block off plate with rubber gasket, schraeder valve, 0-30psi pressure gauge and equalizing fittings for the intake side. Standard compression type rubber butt plugs for the exhaust side. The block off plate also works excellent for lining up the cylinders and keeping them spaced correctly while torqueing them down. If your interested shoot me a private with contact info and I will send pics of the one I am currently using. Probably take a week or so to fab and ship. Quote
bunboy1 Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 you can also get a really nice kit from snap on. but will cost you an arm and a leg. your best bet would be to build one for 25 bucks and you only have to goto two stores. Quote
dajogejr Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 I can make you a sanitary, turn key setup for about $120.00. It is banshee specific. Has OEM banshee intake bolt pattern and attaches to the reed cage area of the cylinders using OEM 6mm intake manifold bolts so the carbs, intake and reed have to come off. Billet aluminum block off plate with rubber gasket, schraeder valve, 0-30psi pressure gauge and equalizing fittings for the intake side. Standard compression type rubber butt plugs for the exhaust side. The block off plate also works excellent for lining up the cylinders and keeping them spaced correctly while torqueing them down.If your interested shoot me a private with contact info and I will send pics of the one I am currently using. Probably take a week or so to fab and ship. Two things. What if the problem IS the intake? And what if it's a Cheetah or other banshee aftermarket engine with different intakes? I've had the intake bolts work their way loose (a dab of blue loctite to cure it) and it would rev up due to a small air leak. Your tester wouldn't account for that. IMO....just removing the carbs and exhaust should be all you have to take off. Exhaust and carbs won't cause an air leak, anything else possibly could..... Quote
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