bunboy1

hi there, during the leak down test, it should not leak at all. i recommend you do another leak down test as you tear it down. try to find this leak.

i would check the slack on the chain. when it can no longer adjust correctly, it is time to get a new one. i change my chain and both sprockets as a set. i buy the primary drive set from rocky mountain. with sprockets and x ring chain it was like 70 bucks. i hear from some pros i ride with say they all last pretty much the same.

how about after market cranks? i just put a hot rods +4 crank in, does that required welding as well? thanks.

you can also get a really nice kit from snap on. but will cost you an arm and a leg. your best bet would be to build one for 25 bucks and you only have to goto two stores.

hi there, i got the tool and it works great. buy it from rocky mountain for like 15 bucks

the +4 is the line just below the +5 mark on the timing plate. to set it to +4, line the +4 mark up with the split on the crank case halves. when i installed mine, i had to lightly sand around the outside edges so i could play with the timing when the flywheel was on.

hi there, to check if there is fuel in the bowls, you turn your petcock on. then you undo the screws on the bottom of the bowls and visually see if fuel comes out of the drain hoses next to the screws. another trick is to take off the air filters and cover the carb opening with your hand and kick it over. you should see fuel rise out of the main nozzle.

hey guys, i am probably gonna have to do the same thing. when i brings jets and stuff out to the dunes, how do i keep sand out of everything? any pointers would be great. thanks

your gonna need a new pair of needles bud.

i use electrical contact cleaner, because it guarantees that there is no oily residue left behind.

get a soft mallet or dead blow hammer and strike the front engine mount boss. keep in mind that the mount goes with the top case half. one good love tap and it comes apart.

ok i understand now, thanks for all the help.

how about the hour meter? do you think that i need to divide the hours displayed by half as well, thanks.

ok i want to buy another tach/hour meter. so what do you guys think i need to buy. a 1 spark 1 rpm, or a 2 sparks per rpm? please let me know. thanks

i only wrapped the wire over one ignition lead. should it count every spark on that cylinder only? how about the hour meter? would that be off as well? thanks.

hi there, the box says it is for two or four stroke engines, and it is good for single or multiple cylinder engines. i purchased it from rocky mountain atv. by counting the sparks off the lead, does anyone know how accurate is it? thanks in advance.

hi there, the box says it is for two or four stroke engines, and it is good for single or multiple cylinder engines. i purchased it from rocky mountain atv. by counting the sparks off the lead, does anyone know how accurate is it? thanks in advance.

hi there, the box says it is for two or four stroke engines, and it is good for single or multiple cylinder engines. i purchased it from rocky mountain atv. by counting the sparks off the lead, does anyone know how accurate is it? thanks in advance.

every time i wash my bike i need to pull the choke out to start it afterwards. if you got pods, did you spray water into them?

hi all, i just got done with a complete bottom and top end rebuild. i also purchased an hour/tachometer made by hardline that hooks up to the spark plug wire. according to the tachometer, i am idling at 3,500 rpm + or - 200 rpm. is this accurate? because the maintenance manual says it needs to be 1,450 - 1,550. any thoughts? thanks

i just installed a hot rods +4 mm crank. i recall seeing a weld on the crank web, when i pulled it out of the box. does this crank need to be welded a 2nd time or not? any thoughts? thanks.

it can leak anywhere there is an oil seal and clutch cover gasket. try idling your motor and looking around and try to visually see where it is coming from. look under the motor, if there is a puddle of oil, there should be a drop of oil hanging off of something.

i found the leak!!! it was my home made tester that was the problem. instead of using a hand pump from a blood pressure tester, i used a schtrator valve from an car tire. i had a pressure drop when i left the bike pump attached. when disconnected the pump to wash the bike, i spent about half an hour doing this and i then noticed that it held 6 psi the whole time. i am an idiot sometimes, but thanks for all the help.

right now the engine is installed in the frame. if it is a crank seal, will i have to split the cases and use all new oil seals and gaskets? i also read on here, somewhere, that i can flip my motor upside down and remove the bottom half of the case, with out removing the jugs. is that possible and a good idea? thanks for all your help.

hi all, i went and got some pvc tubes and now the nothing pops out, great!!! now when i do my leak down test, i do have a pressure drop and from 6psi it take 1 min and 19 sec to get to 5psi. do you guys think that is ok? or should be worried? thanks