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Where to buy leak down tester


J-Madd

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I can make you a sanitary, turn key setup for about $120.00. It is banshee specific. Has OEM banshee intake bolt pattern and attaches to the reed cage area of the cylinders using OEM 6mm intake manifold bolts so the carbs, intake and reed have to come off. Billet aluminum block off plate with rubber gasket, schraeder valve, 0-30psi pressure gauge and equalizing fittings for the intake side. Standard compression type rubber butt plugs for the exhaust side. The block off plate also works excellent for lining up the cylinders and keeping them spaced correctly while torqueing them down.

If your interested shoot me a private with contact info and I will send pics of the one I am currently using. Probably take a week or so to fab and ship.

 

 

You need the intake and reed cages in place to check for leaks there as well...

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Whatever... I think I was pretty clear as to what it is exactly that I am using. If someone wants to pressure test with reeds and intake intact what I currently use wont work. If you want to know if the cases and top end assembly are leaking, where and exactly how much... It will work. Several different ways to find an intake manifold leak without pressurizing the cases... If that's all that's needed why even bother pressurizing the cases at all.

I'll put you down as a no??? :biggrin:

 

Two things. What if the problem IS the intake? And what if it's a Cheetah or other banshee aftermarket engine with different intakes?

 

I've had the intake bolts work their way loose (a dab of blue loctite to cure it) and it would rev up due to a small air leak.

Your tester wouldn't account for that.

 

IMO....just removing the carbs and exhaust should be all you have to take off. Exhaust and carbs won't cause an air leak, anything else possibly could.....

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Well, he didn't give me a link :biggrin: I welcome all responses, but I think I'm going with Dave's suggestion. My Cheetah has developed a massive air leak...it wants to keep running after killing the ignition after only idling for a minute or so. I can't even purge it b/c it gets too hot idling.

 

 

Just ordered one from Bob for $58 shipped. Will be shipped out today or tommorrow.

 

 

I can make you a sanitary, turn key setup for about $120.00. It is banshee specific. Has OEM banshee intake bolt pattern and attaches to the reed cage area of the cylinders using OEM 6mm intake manifold bolts so the carbs, intake and reed have to come off. Billet aluminum block off plate with rubber gasket, schraeder valve, 0-30psi pressure gauge and equalizing fittings for the intake side. Standard compression type rubber butt plugs for the exhaust side. The block off plate also works excellent for lining up the cylinders and keeping them spaced correctly while torqueing them down.

If your interested shoot me a private with contact info and I will send pics of the one I am currently using. Probably take a week or so to fab and ship.

 

 

I've already ordered one, but thank you for the response I'm sure your tester is well made, but may not work for my application. :thumbsup:

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No problem, since the question was asked... just putting it out there... Thanks for letting me know and being respectfull about it.

Good luck with everything.

 

Sorry if I came off as disrespectful, I surely didn't mean it that way. Typing doesn't portray tone or attitude very well.

You've obviously put a LOT of thought and time into your setup...and I'm sure it's top quality just by your in depth description....

 

:)

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No guys, that's not it at all... I am pretty new here... Most of my work is with the motor on a bench. Plus I kind of misunderstood the original intent

anyway :blink: . I'm good, hope everyone else is as well :biggrin: .

 

 

Sorry if I came off as disrespectful, I surely didn't mean it that way. Typing doesn't portray tone or attitude very well.

You've obviously put a LOT of thought and time into your setup...and I'm sure it's top quality just by your in depth description....

 

:)

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I used this thread to make mine it works great, It should be pinned.

 

>clicky<

 

 

Maybe it should be pinned. I know what that thread is without even clicking on it. That's all I could find when I searched. But some of us are lazy folkes that don't live near lowes or home depot or anywhere to get some of those parts. Hopefully this thread will help us lazy people out.

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Dave, I have a few recent pics of a Banshee motor I could show you if I could figure out how to get em on here??? Would someone be kind enough to walk me through it. I am looking at them on a cd, just can't figure out how to get them from the cd to here??? DUH!

 

In that case, welcome aboard....:)

 

How about a few pictures of some of your work?

 

Dave

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Dave, I have a few recent pics of a Banshee motor I could show you if I could figure out how to get em on here??? Would someone be kind enough to walk me through it. I am looking at them on a cd, just can't figure out how to get them from the cd to here??? DUH!

 

I go to imageshack.us, upload the image...then copy and paste the "hotlink for forums" URL into the body of a post, works for me...:)

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Dave, sorry for the delay on the pics... I am pretty slammed right now, but more so it was because I am a "computer idiot"!

The first one is checking the volume of an OEM head I cut for 100 octane fuel. Second one is bringing the left piston to TDC to establish a combustion chamber trapped volume so I could calculate a compression ratio. It shows the block off plate I am currently using to pressurize the cases.

 

post-28382-1213930643.jpg post-28382-1213930688.jpg

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