THE ULTIMATE DUNNING BANSHEE

[sek2dts]

classified's are your friend. if u want to build one from scratch all brand new thats alot of cash. i bought my motor used and took it apart and checked and replaced some stuff that saved me atleast 2-3 thousand. bought a rolling setup title included with plastics and custom axis shocks, roll design a arms for 1500. u see where i am going with this. u can build your $7-10,000 dune quad for a far less price if u have time and shop around and have some handy skills

[shanYE west]

If I was gonna turn my shee back into a duner and looking to do it at a "realistic cost"

 

4mil stock jugs with a dune port and CPI, T-5's or PT Hi-rev. I wouldn't go any bigger then 35 pwk's. The builder will suggest compression and timing settings. Get some +2 +1 a-arms with some nice shocks (Front and rear). Wider axle, G-force axles are nice and will help keep the cost down. I liked a +2 swinger for duning, wouldn't go any longer then a +4. Anything longer and it gets kinda hairy when/if you do any jumping.

I like skat~trak tires. Probably a 9 or 10 paddle edge tires should do the trick for the rear. Up front I'd run some mohawks and put them on 10x6 rims. The wider rim will give the tire a wider body for better float. Then finish it off with the usually items..

Edited April 4, 2008 by Fouledout421

[fun_on_the_sand]

Glamis is wide open and the dunes are huge and soft. Horsepower rules there. I would build a 4mil aggresively ported stock cylinder or a 4mil cub, 39pwks with billet bowls, shearer inframes billet clutch basket, HD clutch, billet impelar, cool head and lots of bling. +2+1 a-arms, good shocks, widened rear axle, 4inch roundhouse swinger. Do a DC conversion and put some HID headlights on it. 21x12x8 skat trak haulers with 22x8x10 fronts. Oh wait, thats what i am building :biggrin:

 

 

That will get you the motor.

 

 

I'll take any ideas, even if they are over the budget. Like always, I'll have to make my choices of what to do now and what later.

 

I really like the setup you sugested, just a couple of questions.

 

why did you pick the 39mm PWK, why not 35s? how much compression are you planning for?

[rubberneck]

I'll take any ideas, even if they are over the budget. Like always, I'll have to make my choices of what to do now and what later.

 

I really like the setup you sugested, just a couple of questions.

 

why did you pick the 39mm PWK, why not 35s? how much compression are you planning for?

 

I am shooting for 180psi compression, havent finished buttoning things up to check it, but should be pretty close with the 20cc domes as jeff sells a bunch of them and thats about where he said they usually land. The reason i went with the 39pwks is that Jeff from fast recomended them. When i went to place my order for the whole cub set up, i asked for 35's. Jeff said go 39. He said on the dyno, not only do they pick up HP, but torque also. Also, a bunch of guys on planet sand agreed. They said the cubs love to breath and that 39's on gas work really well. Some guys have said 35's would be better, a little smoother power transition down low, but i went with what the guy selling me the stuff recomended. Your builder may recomend different. If you do a stock cylinder 4mil, 33-35 would probably be the way to go, at least that is what i have heard, again whoever is doing the porting will be able to give you a recomendation.

 

Also, for a duner, I decided against an override and lockup. I was concerned with backloading the trans too much which can bend shift forks in a duneable override. I am going to try the stock trans with Jeffs clutch and see how she does. Some guys have said absolutely go override, but i was just a little concerned about longevity with the type of riding i plan on doing. If you dont do the override, dont do the lockup. Makes shifting with a clutch harder. I did do the lockup cover though as it will allow me to easily change a clutch if need be. I think I am on the edge as far as clutch reliablility and HP is concerned without the lockup. I have a spare clutch and plan on taking it to the dunes with me just in case, and the lockup style cover should make it a snap.

[fun_on_the_sand]

classified's are your friend. if u want to build one from scratch all brand new thats alot of cash. i bought my motor used and took it apart and checked and replaced some stuff that saved me atleast 2-3 thousand. bought a rolling setup title included with plastics and custom axis shocks, roll design a arms for 1500. u see where i am going with this. u can build your $7-10,000 dune quad for a far less price if u have time and shop around and have some handy skills

 

I get your point and I agree. That's what I'll try to do, try to get a non-ported used banshee 02 - 05 with either CPIs or T5s (I am monitoring for the right deal localy) and start from there. I know the whole project will be expensive, so I'll try to save on the big things.

[Animalman294]

Ya, it cost some change to do it right, but in the long run it will save you money in broken parts............

[fun_on_the_sand]

If I decide to go with the agresive dune ported stock cylinders, 4mm cranck, 19-20cc domes and CPI inframes... what do you think of the 2 into 1 intake with 35 or 38 PWK airstriker? do you think it will pick up the bootom end?

[Hilarious]

If I decide to go with the agresive dune ported stock cylinders, 4mm cranck, 19-20cc domes and CPI inframes... what do you think of the 2 into 1 intake with 35 or 38 PWK airstriker? do you think it will pick up the bootom end?

 

A nice 4mill dune ported stock cyl engine with 35's on race gas makes a

really nice and most of all a FUN dunner. :thumbsup:

[feedmelies]

For lights, think about going with a DC setup and a 250 watt stator. Throw on four 50w HID's (similar to the placement on my bike below) and you'd be GOLDEN at night. You can never have enough light at the dunes!

Edited April 4, 2008 by feedmelies

[fun_on_the_sand]

For lights, think about going with a DC setup and a 250 watt stator. Throw on four 50w HID's (similar to the placement on my bike below) and you'd be GOLDEN at night. You can never have enough light at the dunes!

 

I know you can get a 200w stator from Ricky Stator, but I didn't know there were 250w stators avalible, how makes those?

[Animalman294]

I believe Ricky Stator sells those too. I looked into getting one for my ride a while back and decided I wanted to go faster instead...................

[C&B]

I thought the Cubs were intended for drags, and therefore for top end, and when dunning I think you are looking for for bottom/mid range power.

 

I am surprised nobody has mentioned the 2 into 1 intake, I think it helps the bottom end and throtle response. Would you guys consider it as a must for a dunner?

Ive been through a ton of set ups. IMO the cub is the shit so far. I only dune it so I can tell ya truthfully the only other motor I would go back to is my 370LR, 34mm mikunies, aggresive port, stock swinger, T5s. (I would love to try CPIs on this set up). Ran awesome for 4 yrs till the crank walked out of the case. straight cut gears fixed that though. The cub is awesome for my style, lots of power.... Im a speed junkie!!!

[Rex789]

Whats wrong with running a cub motor? I thought they were very reliable? Im planning on going with a 4mil build 421cc cub with an aggressive dune port, either a +2 or +4 extended swing arm (which would u prefer?) Im going with +2 +1 A-arms. But do you think I really need to replace the shocks? shits so expensive, How are the Float 2007 fox shocks? Can I keep my stock rear shock, or do i have to replace that too? Im going with a +2 wider rear axle. A clutch lockout from cascade, a hi-flow impeller, an advanced timing plate (I'll prob run a higher octane so what should I bump it too?) I also have a noss cool head with 20cc domes, should I get 18cc or 19cc? Im going with a shift-star mod as well. I'm going with shearer in-frame big bores (would it really make a difference in power if i went with out of frame drag pipes?) and for carbs I'm either going with 28PWK or 33PWK (I duno about 35, mite be too big, but i duno) should i keep my K&N slip on filters or get a unipod filter or some other intake? What handle bars would you prefer? And what rear paddle tires? (how many paddles) Im sorry for all of the questions but I'm trying to put this all together and I need some expert advice. I'm going to have HerrJuggs do my motor work. So overall how much money am I looking at spending?

[Wildcardracing]

Thank you for your advice and excuse my next dumb question, but, what's the most significant benefit out of a stroker? torque? bottom end?

Stroker motors make more power everywhere, because you get the top end advantage of running more port duration, but they also have more bottom end because the powerstroke is longer since the roof of the ports aren't cut as much to achieve the desired duration. I would build an aggressive dune ported 4 or 7mil with ported cases,+4 timing, 32-34mm mikunis, coolhead with pumpgas freindly domes (no need to break the bank for a riding trip),VF3's,CPI's, Pod Filters, billet impellor, modded shift star and lightened flywheel (depending on rider weight). Throw on a +4 roundhouse swinger and some 22x11x8 8pdl or 9pdl haulers and mohawks up front. Then spend the rest on lightweight goodies and suspension.

[BigRed350x]

If you are in the dunes, suspension is your friend. Get some suspension first and foremost, then build your engine up. With a nice suspension you can do a lot more with less power.

 

I'd go wtih a set of +2+1 a-arms with heim joints (ball joints suck wang)

nice shocks (dune edition elkas or some triple rate works, etc)

+4 rear end

aftermarket rear shock or rebuilt/revalved rear

wider axle

 

+4 stroke in the engine

porting

33 or 35mm carbs and intakes

vforce 3 reeds with the bigger stuffers

cool head

good clutch

side-cut your gears in the transmission

shift star mod & roller bearing

CPI pipes or T5's

 

that should kill your budget quite nicely.