sek2dts

Let me know if you have ims roll design heel guards you want to sell.

needs to go taking offers

taking any reasonable offer

ttt

taking offers

supermoto sold, come on new jersey somebody wants a banshee.

ttt

i am located in northern new jersey, you can email me, text, call or pm me. [email protected] 201-953-0660- chris 2003 banshee bought it from orginal owner who had the quad to ride with his 12 year son so any regular abuse came from me. quad was bone stock when i bought it last may. i only ridden it like 8 or 9 times since i have had it. here a list of stuff i put on it. toomey t-6's, k&n pods,jets,new clutch with 3 heavy duty springs, cascade shift star, prodesign impellar and ez drain, pro design shifter, renthal bars with oury grips, razor 2's front and back( fronts not shown in pics), lonestar axle and slc swingarm stock length. motor has never been opened before still has the virgin seal. quad is dirty in the pics but i can assure you if u come to look it will be spotless. asking $3300 or best offer. 2006 suzuki drz 400sm what a waste of money this thing was i never even rode the damn thing cause i never got my motorcycle license it has 600 miles on it. if u have ever ridden a supermoto i dont need to explain how fun these things are. heres a list of stuff i put into it. yosh full exhuast, 3x3 intake mod, new jets, renthal bars and grips, carbon fiber frame guards, drc blinkers and rear taillight and plate holder, 44t sproket. i have everything that came on it stock to. have title and all the keys. asking $4200 i am pretty firm on this cause its brand new.

haha i had oring problems to i had to get those copper crush orings from noss and that solved my problem. my riding spot is like 2 hours away to and i am going this weekend. i will be shocked if i last all day with no problems,this is the 10mm's first trip anywhere besides up and down the road.

ill def give it a try, thanks a again man now that i got this taken care of i am in a way better mood, ive been pretty grumpy for the past week about this problem.

dajogejr your advise was right on the money. extra plate in the middle and some adjustment on the pancake bearing. now the this thing is like driving a turbo z06 the thing spins in every gear. only thing i want to do is go back to stock springs cause it engauges alittle hard but other than that its tits. thanks for all the replies and the help everyone :beer:

thank u man ill let u know how this works out. i really appreciate the help.

haha forgive me for being a dumbass what do u mean add an additional steel in the middle somewhere? i give tons of respect to anyone who has a bigger motor setup cause these thinks are like owning a little 9 sec car. parts either work or they break, these motors find the weakest link pretty fast. i just cant wait till i am perfectly dialed in.

i do have the pancake bearing in and just noticed that clutch lever perch adjustment is all the way backed out to the end. the bracket just about lines up perfectly with the arrow on the case. think the pancake bearing needs better adjustment? i am using stock wheels and tires on pavement. this is my first big motor so i am not to experienced, havent ridden on or knew anybody that had one in my area but i have a hard time believing this thing is that powerfull to spin hard enough where it feels like i am in neutral just reving it inbetween gears. there was no play in the basket also. thanks for the replies any idea's u throw at me i am willing to try as i am stumped as to why this is happening.

that would be pretty crazy if it is spinning but it doesnt feel like that. +6 swinger, i only ride in the sand so when i test it on the street i use stock rims and tires, stock gearing, 185lbs. Might have some other issues goin on in there. If the clutch is new and everything is adjusted properly and oil level is good... whats the condition of the rest of the clutch componets? how old is the pressure plate? This post has been edited by Fouledout421: Today, 04:33 PM when i took it apart twice the fibers looked good, no glazing or ecessive heat marks on cluch or pressure plate.

got a question for you guys, i am having problems with my lockout when i am shifting. the clutch engauges fine with no slipping at all and when i get on it there also no slipping but as soon as i shift and go to get back on it it just doesnt deliver anything like the clutch isnt even engauged but when i ease off the throttle all the way and get back on it then it hooks up and go's. i can put it and 5th gear at low rpms and ride it all the way out with no slipping at all just when i shift it. i can't figure it out, i put stiffer springs in and it didnt work. i am thinking maybe heavier weights on the fingers maybe but i am not sure. has this happened to any of u? setup- 10mm-68mmcub,edc clutch with springs,lock out, side cut gears( i know i need a overide).

those are big money and not common. i have seen used ones go for $8000

classified's are your friend. if u want to build one from scratch all brand new thats alot of cash. i bought my motor used and took it apart and checked and replaced some stuff that saved me atleast 2-3 thousand. bought a rolling setup title included with plastics and custom axis shocks, roll design a arms for 1500. u see where i am going with this. u can build your $7-10,000 dune quad for a far less price if u have time and shop around and have some handy skills

here's my dune banshee-10mill,68mm cub, 39mm carbs, shearer sb inframes,roll design a arms, custom axis front and rear shocks, +6 swinger

why waste $200 on something like this? i feel this product attracts people that want more power but dont have or dont want to spend money on something that actually works. save your money for stuff that really works like porting and increasing engine displacement. worry about putting more air into the motor instead of having it direct air differently for slim to almost no gains.

hey everyone just finishing up my next ride and seeing what jetting other 10mill guys are running. my setup is 10mill twister crank, 68mm cubs with clean up port, 21cc domes, vf3 with stuffers, 39mm pwk's on 110 octane, and i am running a slightly undersize exhaust(shearer sb inframes) until i have extra$ for another set. i am located in new jersey at about 20-80 ft above sea level and i weigh about 180lbs.

never once had a problem with it jumping out of gear. if u look at the design of it the one place it can jump out easy is neutral. when its in gear the roller sits in the belly of each star. its only suppose to change gears easier when the shifter is pushed up or down beacause of the rounded corners. if your not hitting the shifter it def should not be poping out of gear.

i used both together with the stock shifter and it was alot better, then i bought a prodesign shifter and now it really feels good. the stock shifter flexes to much. with the 3 things combined its in my opinion its night and day difference for a banshee.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=83317 listed on the same page below yours

i def lost a good chuck of bottom, but the mid through the top pulls hard as hell. when i had the t6's on it felt like it was beening choked up top. it felt like when i was like 3/4 throttle it was faster than when its full. when i put the shearer's on it was like holyshit, its hard to explain the motor seems to rev out faster and it just wants to keep on going. does make sense what everybody says about the stock motor size and stock ports being bad for the pipes. the shearer's are way bigger than toomeys or any of the other normal pipes. i am putting out 170 psi each cylinder on comp test so maybe thats why i have a decent midrange with the pipes. i am on vacation now when i get back next week ill post pictures of everthing.