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Banshee DC conversion How to.....


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I have to ask, why does one need to "float" the ground? I am just curious on that. We have had no issues creating DC power within .05% by using the OEM setup with full bridge rectification. Is the RS reg/rect setup differently? I mean, the voltage is potential energy and potential from ground to hot will be the same as "floated" ground to hot.

 

 

Also, something we started doing years ago was re-routing the OEM light switching to kill the power to the reg without the lights on thus inducing an open line condition thus no potential and no wire heating. This also allows the OEM reg to handle the RS stator with no problems. The switch tolerates the higher voltage without any arc decay of the switch.

 

The laws of wiring say its a no no to push 200w down the gauge size wiring on the stock headlight switch, so thats why you dont hook up the regulator after the switch. It also creates more resistance in the circuit the longer it is. Doing full bridge rectification and making as much juice as possible requires running both ends of the stator into a full wave regulator/rectifier to be converted to dc. I often times have seen you recommend a diode, which is only a half wave dc circuit.

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Good write up snop...I want to wire in some fans, & the guys at my local electronics store don't have a clue (neither do I), what do i need to look for in a regulator/rectifier, rectirfier bridge...does this set up charge the battery also, or just help run the lights .I will only be using the fan for 1 min at a time, every 10 min's or so ...do i have to float the ground to run the fans?

 

Thanks Dave

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Good write up snop...I want to wire in some fans, & the guys at my local electronics store don't have a clue (neither do I), what do i need to look for in a regulator/rectifier, rectirfier bridge...does this set up charge the battery also, or just help run the lights .I will only be using the fan for 1 min at a time, every 10 min's or so ...do i have to float the ground to run the fans?

 

Thanks Dave

 

 

Why do you want to run a fan?

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http://www.dunereview.com/electricalupgrade-1.htm

 

There is a step by step with photo's on putting in a bigger stator and floating the ground.

it goes on with another thread on upgrading the lights

 

Everyone already knows about that article. This article was made to fix the the melted harness issue that you get when running a 200w Ricky Stator. That and the dune review article guy didn't fuse or breaker anything, and his battery was pretty small. Not to mention his mount was a little crude. So it was enough to give me ideas and improve on what he did.

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I usually kill it around 220, but its seen 230-240... mechanical, its at the hottest point out of eng. going back to rad...back to the question, """I want to wire in some fans, & the guys at my local electronics store don't have a clue (neither do I), what do i need to look for in a regulator/rectifier, rectirfier bridge...does this set up charge the battery also, or just help run the lights .I will only be using the fan for 1 min at a time, every 10 min's or so ...do i have to float the ground to run the fans?"""

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Your gonna want to run a battery to run a fan. Therefore you should float the ground. I use a reg/rect off of a snowmobile. Its a little more durable, has less loss on the conversion, and they aren't offered by Ricky Stator so thats a plus. I personally dont like Ricky's tympanium reg/rec compared to a sled unit.

 

How much compression, and what octane fuel? How do you mix the coolant? Do you have an aftermarket radiator, and coolhead also? What about the waterpump impeller, have you checked it to make sure the fins have not broken off or been ground down?

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