Snopczynski Posted July 10, 2008 Author Report Posted July 10, 2008 I have to ask, why does one need to "float" the ground? I am just curious on that. We have had no issues creating DC power within .05% by using the OEM setup with full bridge rectification. Is the RS reg/rect setup differently? I mean, the voltage is potential energy and potential from ground to hot will be the same as "floated" ground to hot. Also, something we started doing years ago was re-routing the OEM light switching to kill the power to the reg without the lights on thus inducing an open line condition thus no potential and no wire heating. This also allows the OEM reg to handle the RS stator with no problems. The switch tolerates the higher voltage without any arc decay of the switch. The laws of wiring say its a no no to push 200w down the gauge size wiring on the stock headlight switch, so thats why you dont hook up the regulator after the switch. It also creates more resistance in the circuit the longer it is. Doing full bridge rectification and making as much juice as possible requires running both ends of the stator into a full wave regulator/rectifier to be converted to dc. I often times have seen you recommend a diode, which is only a half wave dc circuit. Quote
rubberneck Posted July 11, 2008 Report Posted July 11, 2008 cool, thanks for the bump on this, going to print and save it to do my dc conversion Quote
Snopczynski Posted July 26, 2008 Author Report Posted July 26, 2008 cool, thanks for the bump on this, going to print and save it to do my dc conversion If anyone needs a custom wiring schematic for their bike to do this conversion. I can draw one up, pm me for details. Quote
Da-shee-s-nit Posted July 27, 2008 Report Posted July 27, 2008 Hey Snop!!!!!!!! thanks again for helping me with my conversion, it came out GREAT :beer: Quote
375hp banshees Posted July 28, 2008 Report Posted July 28, 2008 Good write up snop...I want to wire in some fans, & the guys at my local electronics store don't have a clue (neither do I), what do i need to look for in a regulator/rectifier, rectirfier bridge...does this set up charge the battery also, or just help run the lights .I will only be using the fan for 1 min at a time, every 10 min's or so ...do i have to float the ground to run the fans? Thanks Dave Quote
Snopczynski Posted July 28, 2008 Author Report Posted July 28, 2008 Good write up snop...I want to wire in some fans, & the guys at my local electronics store don't have a clue (neither do I), what do i need to look for in a regulator/rectifier, rectirfier bridge...does this set up charge the battery also, or just help run the lights .I will only be using the fan for 1 min at a time, every 10 min's or so ...do i have to float the ground to run the fans? Thanks Dave Why do you want to run a fan? Quote
Toybreaker Posted July 28, 2008 Report Posted July 28, 2008 http://www.dunereview.com/electricalupgrade-1.htm There is a step by step with photo's on putting in a bigger stator and floating the ground. it goes on with another thread on upgrading the lights Quote
Snopczynski Posted July 28, 2008 Author Report Posted July 28, 2008 http://www.dunereview.com/electricalupgrade-1.htm There is a step by step with photo's on putting in a bigger stator and floating the ground. it goes on with another thread on upgrading the lights Everyone already knows about that article. This article was made to fix the the melted harness issue that you get when running a 200w Ricky Stator. That and the dune review article guy didn't fuse or breaker anything, and his battery was pretty small. Not to mention his mount was a little crude. So it was enough to give me ideas and improve on what he did. Quote
375hp banshees Posted July 29, 2008 Report Posted July 29, 2008 Why do you want to run a fan? when i'm riding in tight trails w/ my daughter, it runs hot due to lack of air flow. Quote
Snopczynski Posted July 29, 2008 Author Report Posted July 29, 2008 when i'm riding in tight trails w/ my daughter, it runs hot due to lack of air flow. How do you know it runs hot? Quote
375hp banshees Posted July 29, 2008 Report Posted July 29, 2008 How do you know it runs hot? temp gauge Quote
Snopczynski Posted July 30, 2008 Author Report Posted July 30, 2008 temp gauge where is the gauge located and what type of gauge is it? What temps are you considering hot? Quote
Snopczynski Posted July 30, 2008 Author Report Posted July 30, 2008 This is the finished wiring under the seat for the battery. Quote
375hp banshees Posted July 30, 2008 Report Posted July 30, 2008 I usually kill it around 220, but its seen 230-240... mechanical, its at the hottest point out of eng. going back to rad...back to the question, """I want to wire in some fans, & the guys at my local electronics store don't have a clue (neither do I), what do i need to look for in a regulator/rectifier, rectirfier bridge...does this set up charge the battery also, or just help run the lights .I will only be using the fan for 1 min at a time, every 10 min's or so ...do i have to float the ground to run the fans?""" Quote
Snopczynski Posted July 31, 2008 Author Report Posted July 31, 2008 Your gonna want to run a battery to run a fan. Therefore you should float the ground. I use a reg/rect off of a snowmobile. Its a little more durable, has less loss on the conversion, and they aren't offered by Ricky Stator so thats a plus. I personally dont like Ricky's tympanium reg/rec compared to a sled unit. How much compression, and what octane fuel? How do you mix the coolant? Do you have an aftermarket radiator, and coolhead also? What about the waterpump impeller, have you checked it to make sure the fins have not broken off or been ground down? Quote
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