Bike dies when I shift into first.

[extreem9]

I have done some searching and I have not found a good answer. So my bike dies or lunges forward when I put it into gear, it gets worse when its hot. I have adjusted the clutch, put in belray 80w , installed a pancake bearing and I still get no love. The clutch plates look great, as do the steels. I noticed my basket does have some minor groves but nothin to bad, I also noticed that the pressure plate doesnt come out evenly when the clutch handle is aplied. I took the pressure plate off and spun it on the pancake bearing and it apears to be straight. Any ideas? Has anyone tried to file the clutch basket to smooth it out? I am trying to save up for a cheetah cub so cash is short! Thanx

[David Keith]

I have done some searching and I have not found a good answer. So my bike dies or lunges forward when I put it into gear, it gets worse when its hot. I have adjusted the clutch, put in belray 80w , installed a pancake bearing and I still get no love. The clutch plates look great, as do the steels. I noticed my basket does have some minor groves but nothin to bad, I also noticed that the pressure plate doesnt come out evenly when the clutch handle is aplied. I took the pressure plate off and spun it on the pancake bearing and it apears to be straight. Any ideas? Has anyone tried to file the clutch basket to smooth it out? I am trying to save up for a cheetah cub so cash is short! Thanx

If the oil is too thick, the viscosity makes it cling to the plates & discs. Sounds like you need to check the oil weight...

Edited March 7, 2008 by David Keith

[extreem9]

If the oil is too thick, the viscosity makes it cling to the plates & discs. Sounds like you need to check the oil weight...

So what would you recomend? I have read that alot of the guys in here run 80w

[locogato11283]

are you sure the clutch is adjusted properly at the pancake bearing? if its lunging forward i would say its out of adjustment.

[350BANSHEE350]

yes you can check if the clutch grab is adjusted right just by looking over the left top side of the case where the arm that gets pulled by the clutch cable is, there is a little point on the arm and it faces toward the back of the bike, and there is a point on the case that faces toward the front of the bike, you have to make sure that they line up before it actually activates the clutch, if thats a go then check your oil level, if its to high it builds up preasure and can cuase it do pull abit

[Bansh-eman]

assuming your basket isnt notched too much it sounds like your not properly adjusted. i dont recll if there are the littl dots on stock inner hubs and pressure plates that have to be aligned or not, i know i over looked it on my hinson clutchg and it would not work right.

[extreem9]

I have it adjusted correctly, as per the clymer manual (bible).I am pretty sure the oil is fine, according to the dip stick atleast, I put in just shy of 2 quarts belray oil. It just makes no sence , it has done this since I got it.

This is a little off topic but do you all think I should do a 4 mill or cheetah cubs first. My ridin buddy just got a 4 mil and I want to be able to hang. Also whats more affordable?

[Bansh-eman]

it sounds like its not adjusted correctly. regaurdless of following the manule. i know mine isnt exactly to the book to get it adjused right.

 

as far as the cub or 4mil being affordabole, it depends on what you consired affordable? you can build them for around the same price but keep in mind the more power you have the more other parts your going to need to upgrade as well. and just becasue you can build a cub for a little more if thats not the riding your going to be doing you just wasted alot of money. a cub is a drag motor plain and simple. all top no bottom

[David Keith]

Let's keep an open mind about this. Why don't you remove the 80 weight oil & install some 10W30 weight engine oil like the Yamaha manual recommends. Test this to see if the factory recommended oil weight doesn't reduce the clutchdrag... (1.3 qts.) Please post the results.

[old87shee]

if youre going to do a 4 mill or cheetah build, i would recommend calling Kevin Herr at HJR, his cub build is cheaper then his 4 mill, but you can also get his 4mill cub build for a few more bucks too, ive got him doing my 4 mill atm, his turn around is quick, and he is super friendly and helpful with all your questions

[magz]

Let's keep an open mind about this. Why don't you remove the 80 weight oil & install some 10W30 weight engine oil like the Yamaha manual recommends. Test this to see if the factory recommended oil weight doesn't reduce the clutchdrag... (1.3 qts.) Please post the results.

 

or try some type f tranny fluid for your car, its real thin oil, and leave the clutch disc easier, only downfall iv heard is you might change it every 2-3 rides

[locogato11283]

its not adjusted properly, i dont care what that fuckin manual says. with a little adjustment at the pancake bearing or the clutch lever that lunge will be gone.

[extreem9]

Allright I will set the clutch again and put in some 10w30 and let you all know.

[fastrthnu]

Allright I will set the clutch again and put in some 10w30 and let you all know.

 

10w30 in the tranny sucks! I dont even really care for gear saver anymore either, 80w+ gear oil is what seems to work best for my motors.

[inthemail]

its not adjusted properly, i dont care what that fuckin manual says.

 

loco, you are my hero hahaha

80w is a little heavy. unless your running an abuser use 10w30. even if you think it sucks. the forums are getting into i use and its better lately. its bullshit. the people that know arent getting listened to.

now, i have never adjusted at the adjuster but i can tell you that turning out your perch adjuster will get your actuator arm lined up with the pointer on it and the case. do this.