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looking for the most power w/o porting


Rex789

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hey im looking for the most power without porting but at the same time i dont want to lose too much bottom end. right now i have vforce3 reeds, a noss cool head w/ 20 cc domes, K&N filters, trinity intake manifolds, and pro circuit pipes. I'm getting an advanced timing plate and placing it +4. I'm planning on getting new carbs but im not sure with whether to go with the 28mm PWK or 30mm PWK? This probably comes into play with my pipes, if my friend gets a banshee im going to sell him my pro circuits and either go with Rockets, Shears or the PT Hi-Rev's. (Ive heard that CPI fitment sucks so im not thinking about getting those, and ive heard the toomey t-5's arent all that great either) basically im just looking for stronger pipes that will go well with my new carbs without sacrificing too much bottom end. i know those are all high end pipes, and the shears may be more for ported engines. also whats the deal with a 4mm crankshaft? would i have to change my pistons if i did this mod? who should i order it from? I'm moving my banshee from upstate ny to tucson az. I know you guys are very good at this and have helped me in the past and i appreciate all your suggestions and comments. thanks

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As for your crank question, yes you will have to run different pistons...Wiseco 795's or blaster pistons. Since ur set on no porting go with the 795's and a spacer plate. The Shearer pipes are the most radical out of the choices you listed, they come on real hard in the top end. A lot of people on here swear by the PT high revs, but I personally have no exp. with them. As far as carbs go, I wouldn't go any larger than the 28's if bottom end is a real concern and no larger than 30's on a non ported motor. An other option is to have your stockers taper bored to 27.mm, not quite as good performance as 28's but a lot cheaper alternative. Other than that, you could convert to alky and bump your timing and compression more, looks like your almost to the limit with bolt-ons though.

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He'll only need the 795 pistons if he goes with a long rod crank.. Most people when they get a 4mil crank get the 115mm rods and have to use the 795 pistons. But some people use 4mil's with 110mm rods (vito's cranks) He'll only need blaster pistons if he chooses to go with a Big bore - long rod set-up because wiseco doen'st make a 795 big bore piston.

 

Why spend 400+ on a stroker crank when a bigger HP gain could be had from porting?

 

Out of the pipes meantioned.. The PT High-revs will retain the most bottom end.

Edited by Fouledout421
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He'll only need the 795 pistons if he goes with a long rod crank.. Most people when they get a 4mil crank get the 115mm rods and have to use the 795 pistons. But some people use 4mil's with 110mm rods (vito's cranks) He'll only need blaster pistons if he chooses to go with a Big bore - long rod set-up because wiseco doen'st make a 795 big bore piston.

 

Why spend 400+ on a stroker crank when a bigger HP gain could be had from porting?

 

Out of the pipes meantioned.. The PT High-revs will retain the most bottom end.

I guess I should have explained myself better, sorry.

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i rode my boys bike with PT mids 35 carbs 20 domes and duncan reeds(he got the duncan kit he just needs to send his jugs to get ported)

and his bike has monster bottom end even with the huge carbs...

i going to say if u want low end get the Pt pipes...

 

Zack have your boy change out them pyramids for some Boyesen dual stage on stock cages. I think you'll be surprised. I had the Duncan National kit on my dune bike.

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Not to mention, if you're gonna drop a 4 mil crank in, in order to get the benefit of it you'll have to get the porting changed to match the new timing anywho...

 

If you're gonna stick to bolt on stuff, here you go:

 

Shaved head .020 or NOSS head with 20cc domes. Advance timing 4 degrees.

Pod filters, Fatty, T5 or Trinity pipes, DMCs are nice too.

28mm PWK carbs.

 

Until you get porting done, you'd be wasting your money/time after that point. However, a single 33PWK would me a nice mod for your bolt on bike. You'll lose a hair on top...more than likely, but...more bottom and mid...easier to tune, one carb to pull open...etc.

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alright after reading all this i think im just going to go with porting... all these bolt on's arent cutting it for me so it looks like porting is the only answer... i think im going to send my cylinders out to F.A.S.T. in june and get a play/dune port. and what size carbs would you suggest? and if i do this then id prob go with the shear's (wats the difference between the big bore and small bore?) im also going to change my pistons but im not sure what size yet, maybe the weisco pro-lites .050 (65.25mm). so right there with all this im looking at a lot of money... anything else you think is necessary to have done, if i do all this? would i have to do the crank as well too?

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Not to mention, if you're gonna drop a 4 mil crank in, in order to get the benefit of it you'll have to get the porting changed to match the new timing anywho...

 

If you're gonna stick to bolt on stuff, here you go:

 

Shaved head .020 or NOSS head with 20cc domes. Advance timing 4 degrees.

Pod filters, Fatty, T5 or Trinity pipes, DMCs are nice too.

28mm PWK carbs.

 

Until you get porting done, you'd be wasting your money/time after that point. However, a single 33PWK would me a nice mod for your bolt on bike. You'll lose a hair on top...more than likely, but...more bottom and mid...easier to tune, one carb to pull open...etc.

 

 

 

pod filters??

 

link?

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