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Posted
that bolts to the stock pressure plate between the springs and the plate.

it is used to increase the holding power on high hp bikes.

tends to make the bike harder to shift, so without an override they are not a good idea.

 

so its a centrifugal force thing? those fingers rotate inwards against the PP to "lock" it am i right?

Posted
so its a centrifugal force thing? those fingers rotate inwards against the PP to "lock" it am i right?

 

No the fling outward. I have one on my banshee. It works good. Direct Drive makes a whole new clutch cover so you dont have to worry about the stock one leaking. Before they would just mill a stock cover and epoxy or weld on an extension ring. Direct drive's is a new cast cover with a beefer area around the kick starter shaft, and the vent is eliminated under the water pump. They also now use a 12 bolt lexan cover instead of the 6 that is pictured. This helps keep the lexan from warping and leaking.

 

Mine is hard to shift. I let the lockup do the work, so I run 6 OEM springs instead of HD ones. A good quality easy pull lever and Motion Pro Terminator cable helps. ASV C5 Pro lever and pearch is a great one.

 

josh

 

My new 12 bolt lexan cover

100_2179.jpg

100_2176.jpg

Posted
You should reserach the Slingshot lock-up. It uses ball bearings instead of the arm and is suppose to be use-able with the stock cover.

 

That one would be good too, but I like the flashy clear Slurpy Machine.

Posted (edited)

are these trail rideable? can i still use a billet basket?

im going to be riding some woods trails (cleared out sort of well ridden and packed rut) but i do some retarded sand pit hillshoots too.... the top of the hill is usually a 2 foot vertical so a little slip and drop of the clutch is needed to hook up over it

Edited by inthemail
Posted
are these trail rideable? can i still use a billet basket?

im going to be riding some woods trails (cleared out sort of well ridden and packed rut) but i do some retarded sand pit hillshoots too.... the top of the hill is usually a 2 foot vertical so a little slip and drop of the clutch is needed to hook up over it

 

Yea I trail ride mine. It isnt that bad if you use a good lever and cable. You can use it with a billit basket. I use mine with a Hindson but they will work with all baskets. If your running a billit pressure plate then I am not to sure about that. If your running one call direct drive ans see what they say.

Direct Drives Web Page LINK

 

What kind of modds do you have. Most of the time HD springs are good. I have a drag ported 4 mill stroker with cpi pipes. I could probably get away with HD springs but I like the look. I just run the stock springs and let the lockup to the work. When I am drag racing it kind of lets it slip out of the hole a little then when it gets going wham its locked up.

 

Another mod you need is a Pancake Berring. It keeps the rod and ball from welding. Get the cascade innovations one. It is easier to adjust the clutch than other ones. It replaces the adjuster in the stock pressure plate

Pancake Bearing from Cascade LINK

Throw%20Out%20Bearing.jpg

Posted (edited)

word. :geek: i pmmed ya. your running the same thing im lookin at running.

i was also wondering where that fucking pancake bearing went. im reading bigreds case splitting faq right now and was even staring at the adjuster when i checked this post back and it hit me. duh.... im going to use the stock PP's cause there not work but my basket is nicely grooved out sothat shall need a new fancy piece of bling to replace it

Edited by inthemail
Posted

The new style cover that Jbooker is showing is what we carry and also the pancake bearings. THe pancake brg. is a good idea but you really wont need the lockout for 90 hp range or less, or for a trail bike.

Posted

word. i heard ya haha give me another month or so and a drab green case should be arriving :evil: then its all forward from there.

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