shee screams Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 My Banshee wont shift out of 4th and 5th gears. The oil looks grey and shinny. I took my banshee for a ride for the first time this winter, it was cold out so shee ran quit lean. After letting it sit for a half hour after the first ride, I noticed it was smoking more than usual when I stared it up again. After letting it warm up I tried to ride it again, but noticed it would only shift from 4th to 5th but is stiff trying to shift. ( does anyone know what is causeing this problem, and what I need to do to fix it ) Any help would be apreciated, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1Inferno Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 I would bed 8571895685784712 dollars the you need an imput shaft and 5th gear. If they are run low on oil and/or revved high while not moving will cause 5th gear to lock up on it. It runs on just the shaft there is nothing under it like the runners on the rest of the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowmanzz13 Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 been there too, time to pull that motor and split cases :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1Inferno Posted February 6, 2008 Report Share Posted February 6, 2008 I bought one like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shee screams Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Thanks for the info so far, I am realy not looking forward to spliting the case! Sounds like a lot of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1Inferno Posted February 9, 2008 Report Share Posted February 9, 2008 Thanks for the info so far, I am realy not looking forward to spliting the case! Sounds like a lot of work. Its not so bad the second or third time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shee screams Posted January 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Ok, I finally have some spare time to work on me banshee, I have been to busy building my house the last year, and had on time for her, now I miss her! So far I have my engine pulled out, and have it tore down to the case, I need a puller for the magneto fist before I can split it open. I was wondering is there anything else I need to know about before I split the case? I have never done this before. I haven't found any problems yet, so it is probably the shift forks caseing the shifting problem. Are they hard to change once I get in there, and should I change anythig else while I have it split open. I was thinking I should change all the seals, and put a moded shift star on it to help it shif smoother. I can never find nuetral with my foot either, will the shift star help with that as well? Thanks for any info guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehillsiderider Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 yeah i had the same problem but in 2nd and 3rd. Hes right it is easier the second time around; doesnt get any cheaper though ive done it twice already and have to do it again cant figure out why it keeps happening. Goodluck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drap660 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 (edited) I had the same problem. I would rev it to the sky to launch in the 1/4 and the tranny got stuck in 4th and 5th. What do you guys recommend. Is it just easier to buy a complete tranny gear assembly? I tore the cases apart but nothing seems bad. I had to kinda unlock the tranyy for it to spin freely again, and now it shifts through the gears but still fells a bit ruff. Edited January 26, 2009 by drap660 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drap660 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I would bed 8571895685784712 dollars the you need an imput shaft and 5th gear. If they are run low on oil and/or revved high while not moving will cause 5th gear to lock up on it. It runs on just the shaft there is nothing under it like the runners on the rest of the shaft. Can you elaborate on this. Any pics or schems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbone77 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 had same trouble in 2nd/3rd gear a few years ago on my 2000. changed out the shift forks and shaft-And the problem went away. while your in there check all the bearings (crank/tranny/rod)-no sense in putting a case/motor back together w/ worn out parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drap660 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 had same trouble in 2nd/3rd gear a few years ago on my 2000. changed out the shift forks and shaft-And the problem went away. while your in there check all the bearings (crank/tranny/rod)-no sense in putting a case/motor back together w/ worn out parts. which shaft did you change? The long shift shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swrbansheeboy Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 (edited) while your into the tranny you want to inspect all the dogs on the gears for signs of wear (tabs that lock into each other), the shift forks ( for signs of scuffing of discoloration of the forks as well as the gears where the forks ride and the shafts that the forks ride on) and remove all the gears so you can inspect the shafts for ridges (after many hours the shafts in the tranny can develop ridges keeping the gears from sliding back and forth correctly) basicly your looking for any signs of wear that might cause a gear to slip out or anything that might cause a gear to keep from engaging... Edited January 27, 2009 by swrbansheeboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shee screams Posted January 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2009 Ok, I split the case and checked everything out, I don't see any problems with anything. All the gears move on the shaft like they should, the shift forks and the shafts look strait. Do you think I should change the shift forks anyway, I don't want to spend much if I don't have to? Is there anything else it might be? I just got my Clymer manual in the mail yesterday, so it should help me put my engine back together at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swrbansheeboy Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 my experiance with shift forks is that if they show any signs of wear then they should be replaced. usualy you find that if they show signs of wear it's usualy uneven because they are getting sloppy where they run on the rods. basicly if they look pristine with no signs of wear then dont bother replacing them. if they do show signs of wear then you need to look closely to figure out exactly whats wrong with them... if the tips still look silver but have polished spots that are higher one one side than the other then the forks are wobbeling back and forth on the rods. if the tips look discolored (any color than silver) then they need replaced and you should look at the gears they ride in for wear also.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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