kbone77

STILL HAVE A STOCK FLYWHEEL & STATOR? Good working shape of course, and how much? Do you have a pickup too? My hotrod's crank broke off behind the flywheel and damaged everything so trying to peice the bike back together....

***SOLD***

Thanks Blowit. Ditching the plate sounds like the right way. Then I'll need to confirm which domes I have, they were supposed to be regular, but may actually be stroker domes.-But that would obviously explain the compression problem. Trying to do everyhthing myself that I can-I'm hesitant to take it to a shop because of bad/expensive past experiences.

It is a ported motor-I was simply stating that the exhaust port height was stock. sorry if I failed to mention that. The exhaust ports have just been cleaned up, and the intake/transfers have been ported out. I think they used to call this a stage 1. Prior to the stroker crank build it worked very well w/ the CPI inframes at the dunes. had a nice mid range punch w/ never ending topend. After the stroker build it didn't run as good as before, I believe due to the low compression. Just trying to gather as much info as possible and resolve the compression issue- before I put it back together.

I got the domes used on ebay, they were not listed as stroker domes. maybe they actually are though, I'll have to remove the spacer and check clearances. still confused on the porting-without the spacer the port timing would be exactly the same as w/ the stock crank-wouldn't it? with the spacer plate -the degrees would be different then stock, because the spacer effectively moves all the ports up 2mm. or are you simply saying additional porting for flow is required for the additional displacement the stroker creates?

I sent the jugs out to LA Sleeve and they said the existing port was fine. they just cleaned things up and did a bore and matched the pistons. what type of porting is done to match a stroker?

I installed a 4mm stroker 5mm longrod crank on my 2000. my compression is low at 125psi both sides. it's a fresh topend 65.5mm pistons, w/ a noss coolhead w/ 20cc domes. I was expecting the compression to be higher. I used a base spacer and I'm thinking that could be the source of my low compression, or the cause of poor performance. The exhauxst port is stock, and is approx 29mm from top of the deck. My main question is: Does using the base spacer w/ stroker crank mess up your port timing, and potentially the performance? seems like it would. I used it simply because it came w/ the kit-and I didn't know any better. Should I scrap that spacer and get some domes for the coolhead to accomodate the additional 2mm upstroke? Anyone know the piston/head clearance at TDC?

had same trouble in 2nd/3rd gear a few years ago on my 2000. changed out the shift forks and shaft-And the problem went away. while your in there check all the bearings (crank/tranny/rod)-no sense in putting a case/motor back together w/ worn out parts.

great post, how-to, and pics! I'd like to add-make sure the woodruff key is parellel to the ground (not parellel to the shaft's taper), this is per the manuels. Once you get the flywheel back on -Tight! Start and run it before putting the cover back on, goose it a few times, and make sure the flywheel is perfectly straight (no wobble/vibration). I had a crank snap off -Hotrod's says an imbalanced flywheel can cause/contribute to that failure. Also an improperly installed woodruff key can cause the flywheel to come loose while riding, then the key and flywheel can be damaged... JUST FYI

These come with everything needed to install on your banshee: carbs, manifolds, k&n filters w/ outerwears. The left carb float bolt has been ground down to clear the clutch arm on the case. These were removed from my bike and are in working condition. The filters only have a couple hours on them, and the carbs slide smooth and clean. This is a good deal w/ all the parts, when I originally bought the carbs I had to go out and spend another 150 for filters/manifolds/outers. These will need to be jetted to fit your application. If you've removed your TORS already your existing throttle cable will work. If you still have TORS (which nobody should) you'll need a new throttle cable. Q's -please let me know. In Phoenix, sale via paypal only, see ebay listing # 120366722779

back to the 4mm port question-you'll also need to consider whether or not you're going to use a spacer plate under the jugs or the other option is to use a head/dome too allow the longer stroke. that will effect how it is ported too. I'd recommend the head, don't mess w/ the spacer (less gaskets). Also the previous post was correct, the 795 pistons only acct for the longer rod. just my 2cents from my 4mm crank experience..

seems as though a single head would be stronger, when one piston is compressing and firing the stress is spread across both jugs, not just the one. if the deck heights aren't the same as mentioned in the previous post-you'd have bigger problems, the compression and port timings wouldn't be identical.. with my experience so far w/ heads, my original stock/milled head was my favorite.. that one head gasket was simpler then all the o-rings i'm f'ing with now on my cool head..

I'll probably go with a new flywheel either way, appreciate the offer though. at the end of the day its more then just a crank, the stator and pickup are now damaged, I'll need to replace all the gaskets, fluids, seals, and not to mention the labor involved with a complete tear down-even though I'm doing it myself. And murphy's law it happens right in the middle of dune season. Maybe I'll ask uncle sam for a bailout! Ultimately Hotrods saved a few bucks for themselves, but they've left a customer high and dry, w/ alot of friends. So my advice to everyone: All these aftermarket companies claiming they sell better then oem parts, ask them if they have a warranty. If they do- what exactly voids that warranty... If they can't produce anything-the warranty is up to the guy on the end of the phone-and what kind of mood he's in that day!!

they're still not covering it, spent a good hour and a half on the phone w/ them yesterday, including the manager. they think I'm not telling them something, they even suggested i heated the shaft w/ a torch-and that's why it's blue. but where it blued is between the back of the flywheel and the case seal-which is unaccessible when it's all assembled. it was pretty much like talking to a wall. horse sh!t deal all around. the thing snapped off while cruising down a dirt road in 4th gear on a group ride, now I'm just out a crank... they have no idea how it happened-but they somehow know with absolute certainty it wasn't the cranks fault... pretty much called me a liar.. not sure where they thought my motive would be-why would I want to take a brand new crank out of my bike to get it replaced!! they offered to sell me one at a significant discount-which is a step in the right direction-but it really puts me in a predicament-because why would I want another un-guarenteed crank in my bike. i'm sure they get alot of drag bike cranks returned, because people get huge hp out of them and they fail-but I'm a port/pipe above stock.

the type of gas will be determined byt he compression you have, I see alot of people use 160psi as a rule of thumb. anything over should start mixing in race gas.. simply using different octane on the same motor doesn't make more power...

The milled stock head is a no brainer, it's cheap and effective. If you still plan on dune/desert riding, a full drag port job may be a little extreme, but just my opinion. I've had alot of friends who had to be the fastest-then realized after big$$-the fastest drag bikes aren't very fun to ride anywhere but on the drags.. Milled head and mild to medium port job will give you a the biggest noticable increase. Then you may want to install a timing advance plate, and make sure to dial in the jetting as you go. When I installed a 4mm stroker, I didn't require any more porting, per LA Sleeve anyway. Teh mild was fine, they just cleaned it up. Technically a stroker will draw in more air thru the same ports..

Have to ask the default questions-What kind of riding do you do? Porting will be determined by what you're doing w/ the bike...drags, trails, desert, track, etc.. My opinion is to do things slowly-and not introduce alot of different mods at once-that can leave you dumb founded if things don't end up working right. For example if you get a new head, crank, pistons-and then you can't figure out why your compression is too low/high-you can have a combination of several issues. If she's virgin a good port and milled head will be a big difference.. i had cpi's, stock carbs, a mild port, and milled head for 4 seasons and was very happy w/ it in the dunes..

can clear coat it if it doesn't get hot. but getting something to stick to alum will be a challenge too. in my experience-just keep it dry and keep polishing away!!

That's what I thought too- the bearing went out, created alot of heat and caused a failure. My issue is that it's a brand new crank, w/ maybe 4 tanks of gas through it. All the other bearings are fine-actually the whole motor is fine. The hotrods service guy is trying to say the heat must have came from something else and caused the bearing to go out-which doesn't make any sense on the flywheel side of the motor... he kept asking if I'm running NOS, which is annoying-because NOS is an energy drink or a manufacturer of NO2 systems. But you don't inject NOS into your bike.. Either way I'm not. So I asked the guy if the guys running nitrous are snapping crank shafts-and he said "no". Just feel like I'm getting the run around...

next steps I'd recommend would be- mild port and if you're on a budget mill the head. if you like the bling and may want to play w/ different compressions-get the cool head.

tried to upload pic, but can't figure out how to reduce its size? not a drag bike, just a cruiser, stock carbs, mild port, cpi's and vforce. hotrod's saying they never seen it, but there's nothing they can do. kind of disappointed in that response-the manager is supposed to call me back. that shaft doesn't have any load on it. they said "it must've got really hot and snapped off", --well no crap! my question is how could it get that hot and the whole rest of the motor is fine. the bearing on that side is gone, but they said that's not what made it hot. doesn't make any sense to me, that bearing is the only load bearing point with friction-of course that is what made it hot. seems like inferior or flawed material or something. they tried to acuse me of welding the flywheel on(on the inside), but that would be impossible, and who would do such a thing.. Just can't believe a crank shaft would snap off, especially on a mild cruiser bike like mine.

anyone ever seen a hotrolds stroker crank break right off behind the flywheel? only has 8-10hrs on it and is mild bike(in banshee terms)..