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Posted

I would run it through a few heat cycles by letting it idle up to operating temp and then cut it off and let it cool completely. Ride it for about 15-20 minutes at a time after that varying the throttle speed but try not to really stab the throttle or ride it wide open. I would ride it for awhile using lower throttle positions and then increase the range of throttle everytime you ride it. You can rev it some, also try not to ride at one set speed. Let it cool completely in between the rides. After a few gallons of gas you should be set. I'd run it a little rich for the break in also, seems like this lets the parts polish themselves a little better. I know everyone else has their own method, but this seems to work well for me. Hope this helps, maybe someone else will chime in and give their 2 cents.

Posted

you will get many different opinions. differentstrokes gave some very good advice.

when i do it,i start it,ride it lightly for a few minutes check for leaks. listen for noises re torque. then i ride it like i normally do taking it easy for about 15 to 20 minutes on the second start up. then i ride it like i stole it.

top ends on my personal bikes have lasted years.properly jetted.

Posted
I would run it through a few heat cycles by letting it idle up to operating temp and then cut it off and let it cool completely. Ride it for about 15-20 minutes at a time after that varying the throttle speed but try not to really stab the throttle or ride it wide open. I would ride it for awhile using lower throttle positions and then increase the range of throttle everytime you ride it. You can rev it some, also try not to ride at one set speed. Let it cool completely in between the rides. After a few gallons of gas you should be set. I'd run it a little rich for the break in also, seems like this lets the parts polish themselves a little better. I know everyone else has their own method, but this seems to work well for me. Hope this helps, maybe someone else will chime in and give their 2 cents.

What he said. Just one thing he forgot. Between your heat cycles let the motor cool down completely & re-torque cylinder base nuts. Cubs & cheetah motors are a bitch to do, need motion pro offset wrench, or openend crows foot. While your there with the torque wrench do the head. Check it every now in then till they stop moving. Your good to go

Posted
you will get many different opinions. differentstrokes gave some very good advice.

when i do it,i start it,ride it lightly for a few minutes check for leaks. listen for noises re torque. then i ride it like i normally do taking it easy for about 15 to 20 minutes on the second start up. then i ride it like i stole it.

top ends on my personal bikes have lasted years.properly jetted.

And what he said.

Posted
thanks guys. So if I will be running 32:1 pre-mix, should I mix it at 24:1 for break in? or is 32:1 rich enough? I'll be using either amsoil interceter or amsoil hp injector.

the way i do it is 3 heat cycles, letting it idle to operating temp, and let it completly cool down between cycles. on the second cycle i blip the throttle lightly once in awhile, and a little more on the third.

then for the first ride i let it completly warm up and basically ride it like i usually would except when it tops out i let off, or shift a gear or whatever so its not screaming the whole time. on the second ride giver shit :thumbsup:

oh and i wouldnt bother mixing rich. all that does is effectively make your motor run lean on th air/fuel mixture

Posted

Would it hurt to do even 4 or 5 heat cycles? Because when it comes to my quads, and working on them, I've got nothing but time. Also, would it hurt to brek it in on dominator oil then swich to intercepter? Reason I'm asking is I have a friend who is an amsoil dealer and stocks dominator and is having to order the intercepter. Amsoil says that intercepter is betther for atv's than dominator.

 

amsoil 2-cycle oil recomendation chart

 

What do you think about running TC-3W oils? I'd like to use the hp injector oil because I can get it for next to nothing. And it says it is good for non-powervalve atv's at 50:1. I'd mix it at 32:1 though.

Posted

I would go easy on it the first tank of gas but try to go through all of the gears, then the second tank do the same but give it a little more throttle an the third tank you should be able to ride it like normal.

 

Thats how my best friend broke in his, when I bought mine new last year I did a mix between the heat cycles an the discrpition I gave .

 

As far as Ams-Oil idk I have never run it and I probably wont run it I couldnt live with myself mixing it anything diferent from 32:1.

Posted
Would it hurt to do even 4 or 5 heat cycles? Because when it comes to my quads, and working on them, I've got nothing but time. Also, would it hurt to brek it in on dominator oil then swich to intercepter? Reason I'm asking is I have a friend who is an amsoil dealer and stocks dominator and is having to order the intercepter. Amsoil says that intercepter is betther for atv's than dominator.

 

amsoil 2-cycle oil recomendation chart

 

What do you think about running TC-3W oils? I'd like to use the hp injector oil because I can get it for next to nothing. And it says it is good for non-powervalve atv's at 50:1. I'd mix it at 32:1 though.

most people will tell you not to use a tc-w3 oil, but i have used it forever, in every bike i have owned.

as long as it says its ok for atvs and dirtbikes id say its fine. if it says outboard oil on it then stay away.

Posted
most people will tell you not to use a tc-w3 oil, but i have used it forever, in every bike i have owned.

as long as it says its ok for atvs and dirtbikes id say its fine. if it says outboard oil on it then stay away.

 

That's just it. It says for outboard engines but amsoil has it listed under the ATV section. It also says it is a good oil for them. I just want to get the right oil the first time just because I will have to order 4 gallons just to get my money's worth out of the shipping. But the dominator is too expensive. I mean $9.50 a quart is steep for as much as I will be using.

Posted

since you are using wiseco pistons, why not break the motor in the way wiseco wants you to?

 

last time i bought wiseco pistons they came with a little orange paper that had a breakin in procedure on them. it basically said let the motor warm up, then drive around. dont baby the motor but dont run full throttle for long periods of time. but brief full throttle bursts were acceptable. it also said that breakin of a piston and rings on a 2 stroke only take 30 minutes of riding and that heat cycling a motor is not helpful.

 

that is right from my memory of the paper that came with my banshee pistons.

Posted

let it idle for 10 minutes, then let it cool all the way down. after that ride it normally, just don't let it hang in the higher rpms for a long time, just go thruough the gears a lot. you have to make sure the rings seat, and if you take it easy on the motor, they will never seat properly...

Posted

heres another way to break in a fresh rebuild with some supporting evidence.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

interesting way to go... note that this break in method is for a 4 stroke, but the piston and rings on a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke do the exact same thing and basically, i believe the breakin method to be similar. also note that motune's method is close to the method that wiseco recomends.

Posted
heres another way to break in a fresh rebuild with some supporting evidence.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

interesting way to go... note that this break in method is for a 4 stroke, but the piston and rings on a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke do the exact same thing and basically, i believe the breakin method to be similar. also note that motune's method is close to the method that wiseco recomends.

 

 

 

thats a very good write-up, and basically what i said, just longer. and he emphasizes allowing the engine to slow the bike down instead of using the brakes..

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