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It goes waaaaaaaaAAAAAAtrrrrrrrrr


civicfrk1

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stock is 130, you should be fine. Is everything tight? You might want to do a leak down test. check this thread out... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=leak+down+test

i still have parkin brake and choke tube is on.

 

 

i dont think its the parking brake system doing that though because usually it doesnt let u rev past a certain point.

 

in 1st n 2nd i can rev all the way through . i cant ride past that because the stuttering

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i still have parkin brake and choke tube is on.

i dont think its the parking brake system doing that though because usually it doesnt let u rev past a certain point.

 

in 1st n 2nd i can rev all the way through . i cant ride past that because the stuttering

easy way to tell is just unplu the park brake connector. mine was intermintent. sometimes would rev fine others not..

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easy way to tell is just unplu the park brake connector. mine was intermintent. sometimes would rev fine others not..

so i decided to wait till today to try it out.

 

 

i switched the tops from my other nonfunctional carbs onto these.

 

 

wouldnt start by kick start.

 

 

had to get my friend to tow me about 10 ft till it turned on. it will not hold idle. barely smokes out the left side . and it varies from left to right with the backfiring. switching the tops , for some reason , does not let it idle . anyone know the stock setting for idle????

 

why the hell would the tops make this happen?

 

im about to take my TORS off to see if thats the case , which im seriously doubting.

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dont bring it to 99slowformance their definition of tuning is making it run they will not make it spot on.Good thing I never paid him to tune my shit.Arent you close by atp racing>Have them dyno tune it.

ATP is 2 hours from me :( lol.

 

i called up a good friend of troys , Jeff , hes gonna tune it for me $60 :). i gotta drive an hour but fuck it if he does it.hes got a really good reputation and he told me he'll get it dialed in spot on lol.Hes been workin on em forever and he owns 3 drag banshees himself , so he knows what hes doing.

 

and hes a nice guy , when i was buildin my motor , i needed a few studs , and i drove to his house , and he gave them to me for no charge , we did sit there for like an hour or so and chat about banshees , hes a pretty cool guy n seems to know what hes doin.

 

he says its the carb sync.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest banshee 9531

id have to say to check your jetting also.it soounds like it might be alittle lean.i'd try going up one or two jets and see what that does for you.what the hell man, its only 20 or 30 bucks and its relativly easy. just pop your carbs off take the bowls off and there're right there.

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when i had my bike stock i tryed to ee what it would ride like with the airbox lid off. i could ride in 1st and 2nd but couldnt get into 3rd because it wasnt jetted for the extra air. keep the carbs you had before just switch out the top piece that has the idle screw. then check all your tors wires then check and see if your carbs are going up at the same speed and are going all the way up and are coming all the way down. then put your airbox lid back on if it runs good your jetting is lean and you need a bigger main and maybe move your needle up a clip.

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when i had my bike stock i tryed to ee what it would ride like with the airbox lid off. i could ride in 1st and 2nd but couldnt get into 3rd because it wasnt jetted for the extra air. keep the carbs you had before just switch out the top piece that has the idle screw. then check all your tors wires then check and see if your carbs are going up at the same speed and are going all the way up and are coming all the way down. then put your airbox lid back on if it runs good your jetting is lean and you need a bigger main and maybe move your needle up a clip.

picked up my bike from the mech without him doin anythin. . i told him i was going to hold off on it for now.

 

it wasnt getting any spark to it. he disconnected the 3 TORS plugs , and it started right up.

 

when he sync'd the carbs , he did it with the idle screws and theyre all the way in I THINK.

 

i start it up and it starts revving up on its own.

could i go adjusting the idle little by little turning each idle knob the same amount each time and have it NOT rev as high?

 

 

could there be something ELSE making it idle this high? its revving at like if it were a bit more than 1/4 throttle close to 1/2

 

 

 

Note: Tors is still there , just disconnected the 2 plugs from carbs and the one by the box.

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picked up my bike from the mech without him doin anythin. . i told him i was going to hold off on it for now.

 

it wasnt getting any spark to it. he disconnected the 3 TORS plugs , and it started right up.

 

when he sync'd the carbs , he did it with the idle screws and theyre all the way in I THINK.

 

i start it up and it starts revving up on its own.

could i go adjusting the idle little by little turning each idle knob the same amount each time and have it NOT rev as high?

 

 

could there be something ELSE making it idle this high? its revving at like if it were a bit more than 1/4 throttle close to 1/2

 

 

 

Note: Tors is still there , just disconnected the 2 plugs from carbs and the one by the box.

 

 

If the idle screws are all the way in, I would say thats a problem right there. I think the mechanic sounds like he wasn't too bright if he synced the carbs with the idle screws. Back the screws out evenly until you get a better idles speed, then adjust the air screws. Do a search on synching the carbs correctly, you should find more than enough info to get you in the ballpark. If you have issues with that, then you need to dial in the pilot and go from there.

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If the idle screws are all the way in, I would say thats a problem right there. I think the mechanic sounds like he wasn't too bright if he synced the carbs with the idle screws. Back the screws out evenly until you get a better idles speed, then adjust the air screws. Do a search on synching the carbs correctly, you should find more than enough info to get you in the ballpark. If you have issues with that, then you need to dial in the pilot and go from there.

ok the idle screws werent in , i was mistaken. theyre basically all the way out. but the knob by the thumb throttle , that holds the cable , was screwed all the way out , so it was pullin the cable like crazy.

now it holds idle but barely. n if i give it gas quick when idling it dies.

 

its still getting that power stutter at like 1/2 to full.

 

but i was told that im rich at 300. ill try 280. running Castor 927 @ 32:1.

 

its pretty smokey. lol.

 

how many turns out should the air screw be?

 

i did a comp check again and im at 120 each side so that hasnt changed lol.

 

any suggestions appreciated . im happy to have my bike somewhat running again. i still havent had a chance to fully enjoy my new topend :(

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