gentner8

You definately need a rebuild with those numbers. I bet its a bitch to start too isnt it? I would pull the top end off and see what the rods feel like as far as play goes. You can also pull the flywheel cover off and see if you can feel play in the crank bearings. As far as tearing your carbs apart, they are pretty simple and you probably dont need a manual. They are nice to have around for "those" times. Good luck, and the efforts will be well worth it. I just spent the last 4 months buying parts and putting mine back together. All I can say is WOW what a difference.

I forgot to add that I am running 28mm pwk's from keihin. since they are a different make, do I still turn the screw in to richen it up? Also, what size do my pix need to be to show up? BTW, the meaning of the post was to say thanks for all the help from the HQ members. Many beers and the arrival of pizza made me forget my objective. SO THANKS FELLAS!!!

Now why didnt my pix show?? Pizza just got here....to be continued...

After MANY PIA's, the banshee is alive and ripping! It may be mild compared to many of your rides, but it gets my eyes watering and the hands trembling. I just need to adjust an off idle bog and I should be good to go! If I want to richen up the air screws, which way should I turn them? Here are the before and after shots. Its a shame the previous owner never heard of maintenance!!

Bro, go spend a couple of bux at sears and get a compression tester. They are pretty cheap, as in less then $50. Pull both plugs. Screw the tester into one of the plug holes, open the throttle wide open and kick it hard 20-30 times and see what the guage reads. Repeat for the other side. This will tell you where to start to figure out the poor running. If that checks out, I would then pull the carbs and clean them, especially if gas has sat in them for a long period of time. Doing the compression test will save you a lot of aggrivation. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

I was thinking that too. Im not too worried about scratching the frame, I just want the least amount of effort possible. Is there enough clearance to do it? Is there a blade that will work better than others?

Im trying to replace the bearings etc in the rear end. I have a swingarm bolt that is completly frozen, and no amount of persuasion has gotten it to budge. I have tried heat, tons of PB blaster and a 10 pound maul. I have a replacement swinger and bolt. Whats my easiest way without damaging anything else to get this thing off?

After further inspection.... I used a come along to pull the frame a bit. The one front down tube was tweaked just a bit. I got a used oil cooler from ebay, and ordered a new bumper and various bolts etc to finish it. I put a new battery in it and it fired up. The motor is making some noise, so Im not sure if the last guy ran it without oil, or because the cooler gushes oil, its not making it back to the motor. I shut it down and will wait until the parts arrive. If all works out, I will have less than $500 into it. Im just crossing my fingers on the motor.

I picked up a damaged kawasaki prairie 360 4x4 for $160 tonight. I saw the add on craigslist, I guess right after it was posted, and was first to call. He was asking $250. From what I can see at this point, it smacked hard into the front left, but looks like it will need a push gard and some mounting tabs straightened. He also said the solenoind was clicking when he tried to start it, so he took the solenoid out in hopes of replacing it, but Kawasaki wants too much for it and he decided to sell it. It sounds like hopefully a dead battery. I know I have high hopes for a cheap fix, but who cares. I will get a better look at it in good daylight tomorrow. Even if its a basket case, I can still part it out. :thumbsup:

You may be able to take them someplace to get the dipped in a HD parts cleaner.

You can also buy stuff made to polish the blue out that works well, I just cant remember the name right this second. I used to use it on my harley pipes all the time. The blueing was caused by a lean condition. When I got the harley dyno tuned in, the blueing was drastically reduced, and the bike ran better too....go figure! :biggrin:

If its real bad, I would just replace it for peace of mind, unless the green is tight.

I stay away from all those "band-aid" fixes.

does it have the stock airbox and filter? Check to see if it sucked some dirt. You may need to do a simple carb clean.

I like the honda oil too. Seems to shift a bit smoother to me, but it could all be in my head.

Try a citrus degreaser and a hose. Use a nylon bristle brush and you should be good to go for most cleaning. The citrus is less harsh than most of the heavy duty degreasers, and it works pretty well.

I would also check a few other things. Finsh checking the rest of the ignition system like the coil resistances and the plug wires. If the RZ powervalve system is like most other 2-strokes, it could be gummed up and not opening and closing properly. I remember cleaning one on a CR250, and it ran night and day different. Lastly, when he did the rebuild, did he just do a top end? Could there be a crank seal sucking air? I feel your pain, I hate these kind of problems. Good luck!

So far I am pretty impressed by the set of Pro Circuits I got for my bike. I dont have many miles on them, but I have ridden a lot of 2 strokes from 50's to 500's. They may not make the most horsepower out of all the pipes, but they are strong and you can be a bit more lazy and still be in the powerband. A good overall balance for me and my riding style (Woods and firetrails) Good luck!

Ok, so the clutch cover comes off. I am going to buy a new clutch cover gasket, a pro design billet impeller and.....? Can somebody give me the complet parts list for this maintanance, or do they have a rebuild kit that would contain all the parts I would need? I appreciate all the help guys, more than you can ever know.

Condensation could be the problem also since the dipstick was not fitting correctly. Somehow it became distorted, so I bought a billet replacement for that. I need to look into it deeper. I have a pile of parts that I will eventually get to put on, but the weather has been really crappy for awhile, so I am waiting until things dry up and warm up. The seller said "it needs nothing, everythings been redone and is 100%" At least I know everything will be right when im done with it. Im just starting to feel like I will be passing it down to my kids to ride....cause I'll be too old by then!

so do i just need to pull the clutch cover off to replace the seal, or split the cases?

The bike runs stong, but the last idiot did not maintain it. Im sure the oil was never changed. I really dont want to pull it apart. I just want to ride it for the season, then do a tear down next winter if I can get away with it.

So I pull the banshee out to take the pipes off for powder coating and I notice some anti-freeze on the two bolts directly on the bottom of the case. I pull the dipstick and the oil is milky. Please tell me this will be a easy repair! I can take too many more of these surprises on this bike. :shoothead:

Um....it can be done? You need to give specifics on what your trying to do. However, keep in mind this is a banshee forum and jetting a blaster is a different animal if your just looking for people to set you up with specific jets. List your mods and what problems the bike is having running wise and Im sure somebody will chime in with some help. Good luck!

did it make a big difference in power and feel?