Cheetah Cubs....

[Dinner]

Hey guys,

 

I have been throwing around the idea of getting some cheetah cubs the last little while and I've decided that I'm going to get the highest cc cubs, that still use the stock crank. I sent Jeff an email asking him a few questions so hopefully he gets back to me as well between is busy time. Questions are: I'm assuming I will notice a power upgrade from my stock cylinders? What is the stock port work like on the cubs (dune, drag)? Is it alright to run my stock head, for now, until i get a Cool Head or something? What size carbs would you recommend using for this set up(would purchase those from Jeff as well)? And yea that is about it,lol

 

Thanks

 

Dinner

[J-Madd]

- You'll probably need to get your crank trued and welded.

- 35 mm pwks

- Not sure about making the stock head work with the big bore

- +4 or 6 swinger

- Heavy duty clutch springs

- Very noticeable power increase over stock cylinders (unless you got a badass drag port)

- CPI or Shearer pipes

 

It adds up quick!!

[bigboybanshee]

I "think" the biggest bore is a 68mm bore for the cubs, then the super cubs jump to 72mm bore. I am not sure you can get the stock stroke cubs in 68mm bore though, I think they only come in 65mm, "I think".

 

I wouldn't recommend running a completely stock crank unless its been welded.

 

You "could" run a stock head but I think you should at least have it shaved to bump up compression

 

Cubs are drag racing cylinders. They aren't trail cylinders. You can ride them on the dunes but they are strictly a high RPM cylinder. The powerband hits really hard.

 

I personally would run nothing smaller than 33's for a stock stroke cub. And you'll want to buy the larger fuel bowls for the carbs

 

Before you get set on buying some cubs, what kind of riding do you do most?

[dajogejr]

Depends on how much $$ you want to spend.

I don't know if they make a super cub for a stock stroke, I know they do for a 4 and 10 mil crank.

However, then you can add on the cost of a totally new head (they stud spacing is different, so even a stocker won't work).... and the cases have to be bored, they won't accept the 72mm bore as is.

 

My opinion, get your stock crank trued and welded, throw a max load or TZ bearing on the PTO side for good measure.

Get a stock stroke, 68mm cub. Run blaster pistons. Get someone to machine your stock head for the bigger bore (it's what I use) and O ring the head with 19 or 20 cc domes.

 

Cub porting out of the crate is drag porting. Many builders will clean up the porting (they have casting flaws from the factory molds) included with the price of the cylinder, some will charge you a nominal fee...it does take a little time to smooth them out.

 

Builders charge between 200 to 500 for a "Full Drag Port" but what they're actually doing is massaging the ports already there, changing shape, size...etc.

 

On average...and on smaller cubs, you could probably get 3 to 10 HP more out of a full port. Builder and setup dependant...of course.

 

Plan on a dunable overrride tranny and lockup to make the most of the power, longer swinger and stiffer rear suspension to get it to the ground....

 

A cub is a commitment....100%

[Dinner]

I "think" the biggest bore is a 68mm bore for the cubs, then the super cubs jump to 72mm bore. I am not sure you can get the stock stroke cubs in 68mm bore though, I think they only come in 65mm, "I think".

 

I wouldn't recommend running a completely stock crank unless its been welded.

 

You "could" run a stock head but I think you should at least have it shaved to bump up compression

 

Cubs are drag racing cylinders. They aren't trail cylinders. You can ride them on the dunes but they are strictly a high RPM cylinder. The powerband hits really hard.

 

I personally would run nothing smaller than 33's for a stock stroke cub. And you'll want to buy the larger fuel bowls for the carbs

 

Before you get set on buying some cubs, what kind of riding do you do most?

 

 

I ride a lot of gravel pits, hills and mostly roads/open fields. I don't do much trail riding anymore at all. I was thinking of trying out whatever cubs that use the stock size crank, and then i would get the need pistons/rings with them. I understand what you are saying, I would basically need to re-build my motor just so i don't have the "my engine blew up with stock components" topic started later on,lol.

 

Would it be a better choice(for my bike and style of riding) to get a really good dune port on my stockers? That way I can at least have some money for carbs and all that fun stuff to go along with the dune port?

 

All feedback is welcome :cool:

[Dinner]

Depends on how much $$ you want to spend.

I don't know if they make a super cub for a stock stroke, I know they do for a 4 and 10 mil crank.

However, then you can add on the cost of a totally new head (they stud spacing is different, so even a stocker won't work).... and the cases have to be bored, they won't accept the 72mm bore as is.

 

My opinion, get your stock crank trued and welded, throw a max load or TZ bearing on the PTO side for good measure.

Get a stock stroke, 68mm cub. Run blaster pistons. Get someone to machine your stock head for the bigger bore (it's what I use) and O ring the head with 19 or 20 cc domes.

 

Cub porting out of the crate is drag porting. Many builders will clean up the porting (they have casting flaws from the factory molds) included with the price of the cylinder, some will charge you a nominal fee...it does take a little time to smooth them out.

 

Builders charge between 200 to 500 for a "Full Drag Port" but what they're actually doing is massaging the ports already there, changing shape, size...etc.

 

On average...and on smaller cubs, you could probably get 3 to 10 HP more out of a full port. Builder and setup dependant...of course.

 

Plan on a dunable overrride tranny and lockup to make the most of the power, longer swinger and stiffer rear suspension to get it to the ground....

 

A cub is a commitment....100%

 

Sounds like it Dave...like I would like to have that power, but from hearing from you fellas it might not be the best choice for me...right now.

 

And as I said to bigboy...a good dune port would treat me well wouldn't it?

[dajogejr]

Yep...in those conditions...you'd be wasting your money on a cub.

Get a good strong port on your stockers...

 

cubs have all kinds of the wrong kind of power for what you're looking to do, IMO.

[Dinner]

Yep...in those conditions...you'd be wasting your money on a cub.

Get a good strong port on your stockers...

 

cubs have all kinds of the wrong kind of power for what you're looking to do, IMO.

 

And your opinion is appreciated!

 

Is there a difference between straight dune port, and a dune/play port? And what size carbs would be alright to run with that. Like even right now with my clean up port, and my stock carbs i can run them dry :ohmy:

[bigboybanshee]

Yeah, I think a good port on the stock cylinders would be wise, you can still crank out some really good power on a set of stock cylinders. Put the extra money towards carbs, reeds, and a cool head, adjustable timing plate, etc. and you'll be real surprised with the difference :thumbsup:

 

Cubs are gas guzzlers too, you won't make it very far before having to fill up again...just more food for thought :beer:

 

30's to 33's are good choices on carbs

 

dune port and dune/play port are pretty much the same thing if I'm not mistaken

[Dinner]

It's all good, at least I came here first instead of going out and buying them :laugh:

 

I think I may send my cylinders off sometime soon, or whenever companies are less busy, get some larger carbs, maybe a cool head and go from there. I have another stock timing plate that I could install..so I think i might just drill it out some and see how it goes.

 

Thanks guys :thumbsup: Free sigs for you two :yelrotflmao:

Edited October 9, 2007 by Dinner

[bigboybanshee]

LOL, thanks! :beer:

[jbooker82]

It's all good, at least I came here first instead of going out and buying them :laugh:

 

I think I may send my cylinders off sometime soon, or whenever companies are less busy, get some larger carbs, maybe a cool head and go from there. I have another stock timing plate that I could install..so I think i might just drill it out some and see how it goes.

 

Thanks guys :thumbsup: Free sigs for you two :yelrotflmao:

 

You should look in to doing a 4 mill dune ported machine. The stroker crank helps add some torque. The port job, crank, and noss head with stroker domes would cost you about the same as what your cub cylinder was going to cost.

[Bansh-eman]

also talk to Kevin at Herr jugs racing. last i talked to him he had a week turn around because he doesnt have much work right now. dude dose a killer job, is very ez to get ahold of, and his prices are by far the best.

[J-Madd]

Depends on how much $$ you want to spend.

I don't know if they make a super cub for a stock stroke, I know they do for a 4 and 10 mil crank.

However, then you can add on the cost of a totally new head (they stud spacing is different, so even a stocker won't work).... and the cases have to be bored, they won't accept the 72mm bore as is.

 

My opinion, get your stock crank trued and welded, throw a max load or TZ bearing on the PTO side for good measure.

Get a stock stroke, 68mm cub. Run blaster pistons. Get someone to machine your stock head for the bigger bore (it's what I use) and O ring the head with 19 or 20 cc domes.

 

Cub porting out of the crate is drag porting. Many builders will clean up the porting (they have casting flaws from the factory molds) included with the price of the cylinder, some will charge you a nominal fee...it does take a little time to smooth them out.

 

Builders charge between 200 to 500 for a "Full Drag Port" but what they're actually doing is massaging the ports already there, changing shape, size...etc.

 

On average...and on smaller cubs, you could probably get 3 to 10 HP more out of a full port. Builder and setup dependant...of course.

 

Plan on a dunable overrride tranny and lockup to make the most of the power, longer swinger and stiffer rear suspension to get it to the ground....

 

A cub is a commitment....100%

 

Dave, I thought the stock stroke 68 mm Cubs ran Banshee pistons, and the long rod 68 mm ran Blaster pistons!!?? I've got a few pistons my buddies use for ash trays from my 4 mil 68 mm and my stock crank 68 lying around..I can double check for sure.

[dajogejr]

There are alot of good tuners/builders out there. Keep in mind, CA is just starting riding back up with cooler temps.

For the money and turn around time, Bob @ R&B porting in Michigan is hard to beat, I've seen a couple of his port jobs, rode one of his bikes....and it ran pretty good.

 

Money and turn around time is gonna be key...