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Elka rear shock preload/ride height set up. HELP!


Jayy

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Hello, guys. I recently installed a Elka dual rate rear shock with the self sagging device on my banshee. The shock came from Elka set up for me, my weight, and for MX riding. The shock makes the rear sit very low. I do not at all have the ride height under the frame, or tire to rear fender clearance I used to. Now, my ride height under the foot pegs is about nine inches, and i have the compression adjustment almost maxed out, but the shock will allow the frame to bottom out on the ground if i get 5 feet of vertical air from the ground. I have the preload adjustment collar about 2/3 of an inch tightened down from the top. The secondary spring is basically already completely compressed as is, but there is still plenty of spring travel available for the main spring without it binding. How much further can i tighten the preload collar down to increase preload on the shock without being unsafe? I am thinking i need to go further on increasing spring preload to back of the compression some and decrease frame dragging but do not know how far i can go. The set up guide from Elka that came with the shock doesnt say. Thanks in advance for help.

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use the spring adjuster to set your ride height where you want it, if you are bottoming out then you adjust that by the compresson adjuster not the spring

 

Thanks. I am not bottoming out as far as shock travel, my shee's frame is bottoming on the ground. I know to adjust ride height with the spring adjuster, but i do not know how far i can safely compress the spring without spring binding because Elka and nobody else specs that.

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turn your compression adjuster to the right and it will be harder to compress your shock keep slowly adjusting it till it no longer does that

 

I am only 5 clicks from full hard now. It makes me think i may need a stiffer main spring, secondary spring, or both. Your bike looks sweet, do you have a SSD elka rear shock? If so, how far do you have the spring compressed? I am afraid my bike is going to buck me off going over small, fast bumps and ruts.

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I find it kind of hard to believe you frame bottoms out with an elka. Do you have 18s in the rear? I run 18s with the stocker adjusted to my liking and its hard for me to ever bottom out even with some good air. Either way you might need a revalve and new spring. I say this because just putting a stiffer spring wont allow your valving to work efficiently. anyways play around with your adjustments first i had to play with my fronts bc i was bottoming out like a bitch after about an hour of work there a dream. now i can get huge ass air whoops and its almost impossible to bottom out.

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I find it kind of hard to believe you frame bottoms out with an elka. Do you have 18s in the rear? I run 18s with the stocker adjusted to my liking and its hard for me to ever bottom out even with some good air. Either way you might need a revalve and new spring. I say this because just putting a stiffer spring wont allow your valving to work efficiently. anyways play around with your adjustments first i had to play with my fronts bc i was bottoming out like a bitch after about an hour of work there a dream. now i can get huge ass air whoops and its almost impossible to bottom out.

 

 

I know what you mean, but I have the drag marks on my frame's skid plate to prove it. I will have to play with it more. I am also running 20X11X9 rears. I am going to call Elka and see what they recommend.

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Do you have a aftermarket swing-arm? If so, what is the dimension from your pivot bolt to your linkage mount on the swing-arm? Center to center It should be about 11.5 inches check that first. If it is 11.5 inches call ELKA about the problem you have.

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