Dgrey Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 Okay so im trying to adjust the idle. I installed a Toomey TORS elemination kit and cant get the slides to go all the way down even through everything seems to be the way it should be to let the slides all the way down. I want to use the idle screws to adjust the idle. As you can see the slide is still open. Another one. This top cable is screwed all the way in to allow the slide to go down, but it is still now down all the way As you can see here the throttle cable is not even hooked up! And on both carbs the idle screws are all the way out as seen here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 the slides do not close completely. there will b a small gap at th bottom still when they are "closed" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt96shee Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 yea, i think the one in that 1st pic is open way too much. i used a 2mm allen wrench to set mine up. you definately have something wrong. maybe unscrew the cap and take a pic of the spring and what not under it. btw, no need to answer me in your other thread, this one answers my questions. the slides do not close completely. there will b a small gap at th bottom still when they are "closed" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badassbanshee479 Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 looks like you have the wrong slid in the wrong carb. The cut away part of the slide needs to face out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Okay well then if that small gap there is normal then I don't know what the problem is because I adjust the idle screws all the say in and it still willl not idle on its own. It also seems like my bike vibarates a lot more after all the sh*t Installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 (edited) If the slides were completely closed, then the bike wouldnt start much less idle. Screw the idle screws ALL the way in(dont use a ton of force, just a tad bit snug), then back it out 1/4 turn. I zip tied the thumb throttle open before i did that. Your bike should idle. The screws keep the slides from going down too far. oh yeah tighten up the nut on the idle screw once you back out the screw 1/4 turn. It should rest flush/flat against where it touches assuming you filed down the area like u were suppose to. The screw part on the carb tops do not control idle. You use them to sync your carbs. Edited August 13, 2007 by RagunCajun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badassbanshee479 Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 did you make sure to grind alittle metal off where you tapped for the idle screws? if you do not remove matieral here the screws will bottom out before they adjust the slides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Awesome everyone thank you for the replies. I got the bike to idle. Apparently the carb slides ARE a little bit open when they are all the way down. I got the bike to idle perfect, and full throttle is obtained. Now I just have to cut these two nipples off the frame that used to hold the stock air box because my new pod filters jam into them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt96shee Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Awesome everyone thank you for the replies. I got the bike to idle. Apparently the carb slides ARE a little bit open when they are all the way down. I got the bike to idle perfect, and full throttle is obtained. Now I just have to cut these two nipples off the frame that used to hold the stock air box because my new pod filters jam into them. so what fixed the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 (edited) so what fixed the problem? Well I took out the carb slide on one carb to make sure it was in right and it was so I set the throttle using the top of the carbs until the carbs were synchronized to the best of my eye. Then I turned the idle screws all the way out and then screwed each one in until I felt them touch the slides. Then I started up the bike (wished I had someone else there to hold the throttle for me) and turned the right side idle screw in 1 turn then the left 1 turn (I was holding the throttle at where I wanted the bike to idle) then when I turned the right side in a little more I heard the idle jump up a little bit so I turned the left one the same amount and let go of the throttle and BAM it was good to go! I think the reason that at times the bike was idling REALLY ROUGH so rough that I could not even stick a flat head into the idle screw is because the carbs slides were not open the same causing uneven gas and air flow. But its all good now and it starts up and sounds a little different with all the crap I put on and smells really good with that race gas in there. This week I'll cut off those tabs that hit the K&N pods and take the beast down the street for a jetting test. I still have not checked the jetting. And I don Edited August 13, 2007 by Dgrey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ojcool Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Well I took out the carb slide on one carb to make sure it was in right and it was so I set the throttle using the top of the carbs until the carbs were synchronized to the best of my eye. Then I turned the idle screws all the way out and then screwed each one in until I felt them touch the slides. Then I started up the bike (wished I had someone else there to hold the throttle for me) and turned the right side idle screw in 1 turn then the left 1 turn (I was holding the throttle at where I wanted the bike to idle) then when I turned the right side in a little more I heard the idle jump up a little bit so I turned the left one the same amount and let go of the throttle and BAM it was good to go! I think the reason that at times the bike was idling REALLY ROUGH so rough that I could not even stick a flat head into the idle screw is because the carbs slides were not open the same causing uneven gas and air flow. But its all good now and it starts up and sounds a little different with all the crap I put on and smells really good with that race gas in there. This week I'll cut off those tabs that hit the K&N pods and take the beast down the street for a jetting test. I still have not checked the jetting. And I don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ojcool Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 BTW putting an idle kit in the bike is not something that requires rejetting. Since you bought the bike already jetted I would do a plug chop (or use a wideband) to make sure the kid had it jetted right in the first place. 350 sound about right for pipes and pods though... but NEVER just throw in some jets that "sound" right for your mods... Do it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Please don't try to jet your bike by looking at the smoke, it's a little more scientific than that ; ) I know... I really wont be able to get the jetting down until I have paddles on it and im at the dunes and I check it out. BTW putting an idle kit in the bike is not something that requires rejetting. Since you bought the bike already jetted I would do a plug chop (or use a wideband) to make sure the kid had it jetted right in the first place. 350 sound about right for pipes and pods though... but NEVER just throw in some jets that "sound" right for your mods... Do it right. I know along with the TORS elimination I also installed recently ported jugs, pod filters, vf3 reeds, noss head w/ 19cc domes, billet impellar, cluth springs, and a 200 watt ricky stator with timing plate set up to +6. There were size 300 jets in there and the person who did my porting said 350 is a safe starting point, but may be to fat... I'll have to wait until I get to the dunes because I think knobbies on the street is not as much work on the bike as paddles in the sand and jetting for the sand is different, but maybe im wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheeryder21 Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 are you going to Glamis this weekend for the night races? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgrey Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 are you going to Glamis this weekend for the night races? Dang I didn't even know that they were having night races. I would be down to go, but my woman and I are going on vacation at the end of the month and need to save our $$$. Hmm damn that sounds so fun! Maybe I can convince her to just let ME go and it will be much cheaper. Chicken strips, chips, beer and gas instead of all the other BS that girls always want!! DAMNIT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.