Noss head, v force III, reed spacers

[Dgrey]

Im going to install a noss head, v force 3 reeds, and reed spacers this weekend on my 05 banshee. Does anyone have an installation tips or things that I should know that maybe I don't or maybe things that could go wrong?... any advice that will help move things along smoothly...

[zach45]

the intake boots on the carbs you have to cut the 2 "triangles" on the back of each one..

i used a hack saw blade then used one of my moms nail files to smooth it down..

 

i never needed a spacer ..and dident get my noss head yet..so cant give ou tips with them..

[bansheeryder21]

Im going to install a noss head, v force 3 reeds, and reed spacers this weekend on my 05 banshee. Does anyone have an installation tips or things that I should know that maybe I don't or maybe things that could go wrong?... any advice that will help move things along smoothly...

 

 

Zach45 is right about the intake boots. They will not fit into the VF3's unless you cut them. They come with instructions on how to do it. It's not that hard at all. The Noss Head should come with instructions too. That is not hard as well. For the head you will need some RTV sealant, a torque wrench, and some all purpose grease for the O'rings. If I were you though, since you have everything pretty much apart, I would take the short amount of time and unbolt your cylinders(4 nuts per cylinder) and send them to Kevin Herr (www.herrjugsracing.com) for a nice port job. It should only cost about $150-350 depending on what you get done. If you contact him, he will talk to you about your motor and let you know different options he can do all depending on what kind of riding you like to do. He does EXCELLENT work and can make some serious power. Spend the extra 20 minutes and take those things off and get them ported. You won't be dissapointed! You will not find a better price on port jobs for the quality and time that he puts into his customers bikes! Plus the customer service he gives is second to none! Let him know bansheeryder21 sent you! (Elisha)

[peak-j]

Make sure you go by all the torque specs on the head and the reeds. Other than that it is pretty simple.

[jbooker82]

Grease up the o rings with a little vasoline. That helps hold the orings in place while your installing the head.

[Dgrey]

the intake boots on the carbs you have to cut the 2 "triangles" on the back of each one..

i used a hack saw blade then used one of my moms nail files to smooth it down..

 

i never needed a spacer ..and dident get my noss head yet..so cant give ou tips with them..

 

Well hopefully your mom didn't get mad that you took her nail file. hahahaha j/k thanks for the tip im glad they give instructions on how to do it! =)

 

 

Zach45 is right about the intake boots. They will not fit into the VF3's unless you cut them. They come with instructions on how to do it. It's not that hard at all. The Noss Head should come with instructions too. That is not hard as well. For the head you will need some RTV sealant, a torque wrench, and some all purpose grease for the O'rings. If I were you though, since you have everything pretty much apart, I would take the short amount of time and unbolt your cylinders(4 nuts per cylinder) and send them to Kevin Herr (www.herrjugsracing.com) for a nice port job. It should only cost about $150-350 depending on what you get done. If you contact him, he will talk to you about your motor and let you know different options he can do all depending on what kind of riding you like to do. He does EXCELLENT work and can make some serious power. Spend the extra 20 minutes and take those things off and get them ported. You won't be dissapointed! You will not find a better price on port jobs for the quality and time that he puts into his customers bikes! Plus the customer service he gives is second to none! Let him know bansheeryder21 sent you! (Elisha)

 

I sent the "port man" as I am going to call him an e mail. I think that I might actually do that. I went to his website and he is in San Diego and so am I so that should not be to hard. Is this like your friend or something or does he just do really good work? Thanks for the tip.

 

 

Make sure you go by all the torque specs on the head and the reeds. Other than that it is pretty simple.

 

I will have to borrow a torque wrench... My dad has a pretty nice craftsman one (Yota) as he calls it (and has it labeled) actually. Kind of funny, but its a man thing, im sure you understand. Wait, will I need like a really small torque wrench? I wonder what the minimum setting is on his... dang i'll have to find out damn maybe i'll have to break down and actually buy one. That kind of sucks the wife is alreay mad enough that I spent all this $$$ on the shee and its not even desert season yet. She said to me "you guys are starting early this year" because me, my brother, and my best friend all have 'shees and there is the standard "friendly competition" going on about who has the fastest bike. I for sure will if I get the above-described port work done. =)

 

 

Grease up the o rings with a little vasoline. That helps hold the orings in place while your installing the head.

 

Its okay if there is a little vasoline on the rings when the final assembly is torqued down to spec? Thanks for the tip!

[RagunCajun]

O-ring safe grease is what i used. It keeps the orings in place while you flip the head and put it onto the studds. It was easyer for me to get someone to help me when it came down to putting it on the studds. Just keep checking as it goes down all the way to make sure all the orings stay in place. it's very simple. Although once you get at it, everything on a banshee is simple.

 

Drain the coolant before you start too. You dont want any coolant getting in the bottom in!

 

I did mine w/o instructions cuz my bike is 2nd hand but it was a breeze.

Edited August 1, 2007 by RagunCajun

[bansheeryder21]

QUOTE(bansheeryder21 @ Jul 31 2007, 04:20 PM)

I sent the "port man" as I am going to call him an e mail. I think that I might actually do that. I went to his website and he is in San Diego and so am I so that should not be to hard. Is this like your friend or something or does he just do really good work? Thanks for the tip.

 

 

 

Yes he is local so that makes it that much easier. He is not a friend of mine. Just a guy that can port like no other and make some serious power. Definetly call him and talk to him about it! You won't be dissapointed!

[Dgrey]

*******update************

new sh*t now!

I talked to the guy recommended above for the port job. I will be getting a port job when I take the cylenders off. I told him about the mods I have and he recommended that I

1. take off the stock air box and k&n (with no lid) and get pods

2. take off the timing key (+3 deg) and get a timing plate and adjust to +6

he said it will be a different bike and I will smoke my friends and that is exactly what I need. =)

 

What do y'all think about it?

 

After I do the port these will be my mods (vforce 3 reeds, noss head w/ 21cc domes, K&N pods, +6 timing plate, toomey t-5's) what type of gas do you think I will need to be running? I for sure will have to rejet after doing the pods. I heard that they suck in a lot more air so that is a good thing.

 

Now im excited. I just need to gather these parts together and install before I hit the dunes for halloween weeeknd! GORDON'S WELL woowoo!

[RagunCajun]

The builder will know which mods will make the port job shine. Listen to him.

 

Port jobs are the way to go. Get your flywheel lightened while your at it as well. It's a night and day difference man, youll see. Change the top end too while you at it. Doesnt take long at all.

 

As for the gas, the guy doing ya portjob will tell you. 21 is safe for pump gas. I ran 93 octane with 21cc domes and i still do with 20cc domes. Like i said, the guy will tell you what to run and why. He will answer all your questions for you. Atleast he SHOULD, that's what you are paying him for.

 

Now start working out those muscle, the bike is gonna pull! :biggrin:

Edited August 1, 2007 by RagunCajun

[Dgrey]

The builder will know which mods will make the port job shine. Listen to him.

 

Port jobs are the way to go. Get your flywheel lightened while your at it as well. It's a night and day difference man, youll see. Change the top end too while you at it. Doesnt take long at all.

 

As for the gas, the guy doing ya portjob will tell you. 21 is safe for pump gas. I ran 93 octane with 21cc domes and i still do with 20cc domes. Like i said, the guy will tell you what to run and why. He will answer all your questions for you. Atleast he SHOULD, that's what you are paying him for.

 

Now start working out those muscle, the bike is gonna pull! :biggrin:

 

DAMN now I need to lighten the flywheel... *** sigh *** the list will never end. =)

Im in San Diego is it a simple and cheap thing to have done?

[bansheeryder21]

Glad to hear the good news! Your bike is going to haul ass. Porting makes a HUGE difference! You can do "bolt ons" as much as you want, but without a good port job, they are pretty much useless!

 

 

*******update************

new sh*t now!

I talked to the guy recommended above for the port job. I will be getting a port job when I take the cylenders off. I told him about the mods I have and he recommended that I

1. take off the stock air box and k&n (with no lid) and get pods

2. take off the timing key (+3 deg) and get a timing plate and adjust to +6

he said it will be a different bike and I will smoke my friends and that is exactly what I need. =)

 

What do y'all think about it?

 

After I do the port these will be my mods (vforce 3 reeds, noss head w/ 21cc domes, K&N pods, +6 timing plate, toomey t-5's) what type of gas do you think I will need to be running? I for sure will have to rejet after doing the pods. I heard that they suck in a lot more air so that is a good thing.

 

Now im excited. I just need to gather these parts together and install before I hit the dunes for halloween weeeknd! GORDON'S WELL woowoo!

[Dgrey]

Okay so when I purchased my banshee it had a "timing key" already installed on it. I do not know where exactly this timing key is located, but it needs to come out and I need to replace it with the stock one!

 

I bought a 200 watt rickey stator with adjustable timing plate and am going to need to take this key out.

 

Where should I get a stock one at and am I going to see this timing key to take it out when I install my stator and timing plate?

[BansheeDan]

Okay so when I purchased my banshee it had a "timing key" already installed on it. I do not know where exactly this timing key is located, but it needs to come out and I need to replace it with the stock one!

 

I bought a 200 watt rickey stator with adjustable timing plate and am going to need to take this key out.

 

Where should I get a stock one at and am I going to see this timing key to take it out when I install my stator and timing plate?

ill tell you right now.....if youre gonna run +6 timing you better run race gas

dan hull at a&s racing builds my motors and he says +4 is safe for pump gas NO MORE!!

 

if youre gonna go +6 you might as well drop the domes to 19cc and get some compression out of it

 

 

if youre goin +6 you will need race gas

 

 

Dan

[Dgrey]

ill tell you right now.....if youre gonna run +6 timing you better run race gas

dan hull at a&s racing builds my motors and he says +4 is safe for pump gas NO MORE!!

 

if youre gonna go +6 you might as well drop the domes to 19cc and get some compression out of it

if youre goin +6 you will need race gas

Dan

 

 

Alright screw that then im going +4. Race gas will break my wallet because I usually ride our about 15 gallons when I go out for the weekend!!!!!!!!!!!! My timing key is +3 that is in there now and I always add some octaine booster to the 91 pump gas. I will set the timing at +4 and continue to run octaine booster in my gas... is that cool you think?