4stroker Posted July 18, 2007 Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 (edited) hey guys, as soon as my barrels get back from the machine shop i will be diving head first into bolting an rz top end onto a banshee bottom end. i bought the rz motor as a conversion, ie its been in a banshee before, so has everything from the exhaust flanges to the custom bracket for the PV servo. i have ordered a new set of banshee base and intake gaskets, and an rz head gasket, what else do i need? are there any tips or tricks to installing the electrical system? or is it just a case of bolting everything up and connecting the wires? oh yeah, one more thing, 35mm keihins will be going on at the same time, do i have to worry about any tors removal stuff? i am guessin no with the rz electrical system... i am planning on buying a clymers manual for the rz before attempting this, as well as the banshee manual. will the rz manual have the procedure for re-setting the power valves? if not, where can i find this info? also, what is the best way to put the dent in my pipes? (toomey t5, bare finish) thanks! mark. Edited July 18, 2007 by 4stroker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt96shee Posted July 18, 2007 Report Share Posted July 18, 2007 here's how i did my wiring. i made a bracket and put it all under the radiator. if your setup was in a 'shee before, then you probably have an idea where to put the servo. i put mine up on the tab where the tors module went. as for the pipes, i'm not sure what the best way to dent them would be. fyi, there was a sweet set of rocket pipes for sale on here in the last day or two!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
370banshee Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 so lemme get this striaght.. you use the electrical from the RZ as well... does an RZ run a battery and if so do yoiu need ot use it with a banshee comversion... been wondering becuase i'm thinking of building a ported long rod rz motor for a banshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroker Posted July 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 you need to use the RZ stator and ignition because the ignition tells the PV servo motor when to open the power valves (6000rpm i believe). you just run a battery eliminator kit to get rid of the battery. and yeah my setup uses the tors mount for the pv servo as well. matt96shee did u have any trouble wiring yours up? thanks, mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vitovito240 Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 if those rockets are still for sale jump on them they woild work awsome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt96shee Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 the rz needs either a battery eliminator (which i run) or a battery. no floating grounds like you would on a normal 'shee to put in a battery. yes, you need all the electronics. but, do a search and you'll find a recent topic where we were talking about electronics and a guy that makes a programable cdi/servo controller package. 4stroker, i didn't really have any problems...here's what happened. i bought a complete rz engine but then found a package deal of jugs/electronics/pipes on ebay so i bought that too. i used the bottom end, along with the original stator, and the package deal setup. i re-wired, and cleaned up, all the wiring and ended up not labeling a few connections (figured i could remember them! ). so, i had to break out the rz manual. it's only helpful to a point. after a few checks i said F-it and put the stator from the package in and ran all new wires. this time i tried a new wiring setup for the kill switch and it fired on the 1st kick. so, it wasn't too much of a PITA but i don't really know if i wired it wrong or the original stator was bad...but, i do know now it now runs like a raped ape! you need to use the RZ stator and ignition because the ignition tells the PV servo motor when to open the power valves (6000rpm i believe). you just run a battery eliminator kit to get rid of the battery. and yeah my setup uses the tors mount for the pv servo as well. matt96shee did u have any trouble wiring yours up? thanks, mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt96shee Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 the manual i have has a small paragraph or two about setting the pv's...it's easy. with it off, set the hole in the finger looking piece in line with the hole in the case behind it. sounds stupid if you're not looking at it. us a drill bit to hold it in place then take the slack out of your cables. you'll be setting it at about an 11 o'clock position. once you fire it up you'll see it kind of auto adjust it's self to the proper position which is about 2o'clock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroker Posted July 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 thanks for your help man what pipes are you running on yours? reckon you could show me some pics of the pipe to ypvs clearance? its only a problem on the left pipe yeah? thanks again, mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt96shee Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 Paul Turner High Revs. The way these pipes snake around in front of the jugs leaves a lot of room at the pv. yes, i believe it's only tight on the left (clutch handle) side. the grey ones in my sig are not the PT's...they are FMF Gnarlies, I need to update my sig pic! I'll try and get a pic of the pipe to pv clearance. thanks for your help man what pipes are you running on yours? reckon you could show me some pics of the pipe to ypvs clearance? its only a problem on the left pipe yeah? thanks again, mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenBB Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 thanks for your help man what pipes are you running on yours? reckon you could show me some pics of the pipe to ypvs clearance? its only a problem on the left pipe yeah? thanks again, mark. I looked for pics of mine but couldn't find 'em; I ran PT revs and now have my old Fattys back on, the right side fits fine but the left I cut and rotated to clear the PV housing. Also on mounting the electrics, I put the voltage regulator and CDI in the stock locations, if I remember right I just had to hog out the mounting holes a little bit for the reg. I put the PV control box under the seat where the tool kit used to live, along with a couple in-line fuses (I built the harness from scratch as well). Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZBansheeMan Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 As for the programmable ignition, Check out http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/home.php. The nice thing about these components is that you replace the original cdi box, which the original RZ cdi boxes are getting aliitle more scarce and the most desireable ones are the 52y-50. From what I understand the older 29k-50 cdi's were more failure prone. The Zeeltronic unit comes with 3 or 4 pre programmed ignition curves already but to get the most out of it you would most likely need a dyno, one of the greatest thongs from zeeltronics is the programmable powervalve controller, you could adjust the valves to open at different rpm's than stock and the duration could be shortened or lengthened compared to stock also. In the case you use original equipment, I think that I had read somewhere, that the voltage regulator/rectifier can be used from a yamaha FZ model bike, but I could be wrong. I also had learned that both, the the EXUP valve servo and controller, can be used from the Yamaha R1 exhaust to control the power valves on the RZ. I also have wiring diagrams, if anybody needs them, give me a holler. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt96shee Posted July 19, 2007 Report Share Posted July 19, 2007 one of the greatest thongs from zeeltronics is lol...didn't know they made those :yelrotflmao: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroker Posted July 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2007 I also have wiring diagrams, if anybody needs them, give me a holler.Mike hey man could you email me those diagrams? mark.tomarchio@cardno.com.au im thinking my setup should be pretty straight forward as it has all been running in a banshee before, the only reason it was removed from the bike was to put it back to standard and sell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4stroker Posted July 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2007 hey guys been playin around with my motor today and have a few more questions the cases are stamped 1WY and my jugs are stamped 1UA, the cdi is a 1UA as well. what does this mean? is it the good stuff? also in the big box of parts i got with it there are two stators, one is banshee and one is rz, i just dont know which is which??? is there a way to tell? maybe from the numbers stamped on em? any help much appreciated, mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZBansheeMan Posted July 20, 2007 Report Share Posted July 20, 2007 You have got the good cylinders :thumbsup: , the 1UA's were rated at 63HP. The RZ stator has several more wires than the banshee, if remember correctly, it should have 11 total wires coming from it including the ground and the neutral indicator wire, and there should be 17 poles on it. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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