Mini Twister vs a Cheetah Cub?

[Cykotik]

Im looking into either one right now and i was just wondering what the differnces are and whats good and bad about them

[majicmike]

If you have alot of money and time the mini. If you want the same power for less money and time the cub thats the simple truth.

[strokerace]

why not do the regular cheetah

[Cykotik]

If you have alot of money and time the mini. If you want the same power for less money and time the cub thats the simple truth.

 

 

Iv seen some prices but i cant find a resource that as a good sie by side compairson, i have a guy in baok says he can get me a mini and help install it for cheap ( how cheap i dont know)

 

why not do the regular cheetah

 

 

I really dont want something that big

 

 

 

Does anyone know where i can find some decent prices on both?

Iv noticed on ehre most people ahev the cheetah cub whays that?

[Handyman]

I really dont want something that big

Does anyone know where i can find some decent prices on both?

Iv noticed on ehre most people ahev the cheetah cub whays that?

The cubs are cheaper.....the motors have the same peak HP but the P.V. has more bottom end due to the P.V., requires a reed set up from a CR250 or a TRX250... and have a head specifically for the P.V.

[casper]

You should go with the 4mil cub like SoCalinIts, not too much $$ and you can always send it off to FAST for some porting later on.

[lowriderb]

mini twisters are a complete top end, comparable to the big cheetah's.. the cubs may be cheaper but the power is in the twisters.. the cubs are cheaper because its only the cylinders..

 

my 10mm mini hit 131hp/70tq with no porting done at all (best time of 3.62@89mph(spray) 3.74@80mph (motor) in oklahoma) (soon to see what more it may have in it).. my 4mm cub (sold now) hit 106hp/53tq with porting, a 4mm big cheetah hit 120hp/62tq with alot of porting (best time of 3.91@76mph at planetsand drags)

 

 

 

 

 

the cubs dont have power valves, i dont think that it was an option on the mini's either.. the big cheetahs can have them (optional)..

 

the minis are at the top for price, cheetah's, then the cubs.. the full top ends at more expensive than the cubs (which use stock parts like reed cages and head)..

 

imo if your going to do a motor and have the funds go with one of the full top ends and have all the right accessories for that motor..

[Cykotik]

You should go with the 4mil cub like SoCalinIts, not too much $$ and you can always send it off to FAST for some porting later on.

 

 

Casper what have you all donw with urs? the oscarmyer one seems pretty fast, i didnt poke my head about looking at your motor when i saw it but whats done to it?

[bigboybanshee]

I guess the appropriate question to ask is...what are your plans for the bike, overall? Are you going to dune this bike, drag race this bike, etc. Depending on what you do, depends on which cylinder is best for you. My next aftermarket cylinder will be a twister :thumbsup:

[dajogejr]

I gotta admit, 131 out of a non-ported min-twister 10 mil is impressive....

 

Normally, 120ish from a 10 mil cub on alky. I'm thinking I might send my cylinder to Jeff after this season is over to see how much he can tweak out of it.

 

It's always been my belief you're not gonna coax more than 5 to 7 HP out of a cub, (After a clean up port) but...I'd love to be proved wrong....

 

The Mini-Twisters are cool for the fact not everybody and their brother is running it...

[Cykotik]

I guess the appropriate question to ask is...what are your plans for the bike, overall? Are you going to dune this bike, drag race this bike, etc. Depending on what you do, depends on which cylinder is best for you. My next aftermarket cylinder will be a twister :thumbsup:

 

 

Well Steve (Socalinit) and i were going through some stuff yesterday, to get my bike more dune ready, this is what we have come up with for starters so far

1. Aggressive dune port...
   
2. Some good V3's
   
3. Some PWK 35's for carbs
   
4. With 6" K&N pod filters
   

 

That just for now... then i want to do some more for sure

[bigboybanshee]

For what you want, the cub would be the best aftermarket cylinder for you, mainly for the amount of money. I'm not trying to say twisters can't be dune cylinders, but cubs are much more suited for your transition, at least, that's my opinion :beer:

[casper]

Casper what have you all donw with urs? the oscarmyer one seems pretty fast, i didnt poke my head about looking at your motor when i saw it but whats done to it?

 

 

Well, work with Steve when you put it back together his buddy does a good job on rebuilding, he is the one who did the work on oscar meyer shee. Also some vforce 3 reeds, NOSS head, T5s and such is all I have.

[lowriderb]

For what you want, the cub would be the best aftermarket cylinder for you, mainly for the amount of money. I'm not trying to say twisters can't be dune cylinders, but cubs are much more suited for your transition, at least, that's my opinion :beer:

 

 

 

actually the twisters have more conservative port timings than the cubs do starting out..

 

like i said though if you have the funds (about 3k or so) for the top end and crank for the twisters i would go for it.. the cheetah's are next in line at about 2500 or so with the crank, then the cubs are third at about 1800 or so (with a 10mm crank)..

 

all the cranks im talking about are billet cranks also and there are different options that will change the prices up some..

[FireHead]

If you have alot of money and time the mini. If you want the same power for less money and time the cub thats the simple truth.

I agree.

 

However, the first set of cylinders that I bought in about 4 years wound up being a Twister product. The selling point for me was that the cooling scheme in the Twister cylinder block is better IMO than most other things out there. Hopefully I will still think that after I get the engine up in a dyno cell. :ermm: