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Stock Stroke Cub


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They run pretty damn good, but you'll need to buy all the other things needed for a Cub; and you'll need to have the crank welded. Why not go +4mm (or bigger)if you have to split the cases? Not a whole lot more money for a substantial power/torque increase.

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I wouldnt waste the $$ on a stock stroke cub, when for just a little more $$ you can get a 4mm cub. I am glad I went with the 421 over a stock stroke.

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Acutally, if you are not big into dragging, and just want a power increase for duning a stock stroke cub wouldnt be too bad. I wouldnt have one, but for a budget build it will give you a lot more power.

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I basically drag for fun, I love to do it and probably spend about 50% of my time dragging, But I also like to take long duning rides. I was thinking about going to a Stock stroke cub, 4 over on the swinger and how do you think 33pwk's would fit with the setup?

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I basically drag for fun, I love to do it and probably spend about 50% of my time dragging, But I also like to take long duning rides. I was thinking about going to a Stock stroke cub, 4 over on the swinger and how do you think 33pwk's would fit with the setup?

i think it would run good with the 33's. you could run the pipes you have now but you will gain more power with CPI's or shearer's. is your crank trued and welded? if so, then yeah it would be a bolt-on job. to have your crank T&W'ed would be around $65, but if you have to split the cases to have that done then you could spend a little more for a +4mil crank. you can get a +4mil crank for a little over $400. you may be able to find a good deal on a used one. i understand if you don't want to spend the extra cash for the +4mil, you have to stop the bleeding at some point. i was in your shoes last year. although i had my stock crank T&W'ed when i had my stock jugs ported i decided to go with the +4mil 421 cub. i already had 35mm PWK's and in-frame shearer's.

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i think it would run good with the 33's. you could run the pipes you have now but you will gain more power with CPI's or shearer's. is your crank trued and welded? if so, then yeah it would be a bolt-on job. to have your crank T&W'ed would be around $65, but if you have to split the cases to have that done then you could spend a little more for a +4mil crank. you can get a +4mil crank for a little over $400. you may be able to find a good deal on a used one. i understand if you don't want to spend the extra cash for the +4mil, you have to stop the bleeding at some point. i was in your shoes last year. although i had my stock crank T&W'ed when i had my stock jugs ported i decided to go with the +4mil 421 cub. i already had 35mm PWK's and in-frame shearer's.

 

 

No its not T&W right now but it will be in the next few weeks cause I am currently at 170psi and would like the peace of mind. I will wait to buy the cylinders till after summer, meanwhile I will start to collect the pieces and if the money is right I might go 4mill with a cub setup. It really depends on how much I can talk the boss (wife) into letting me have. I am about to trade my fatties for T6's and then I will probably sell those and buy some Shearer's

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No its not T&W right now but it will be in the next few weeks cause I am currently at 170psi and would like the peace of mind. I will wait to buy the cylinders till after summer, meanwhile I will start to collect the pieces and if the money is right I might go 4mill with a cub setup. It really depends on how much I can talk the boss (wife) into letting me have. I am about to trade my fatties for T6's and then I will probably sell those and buy some Shearer's

keep in mind that you'll be able to sell your stock jugs and cank in order to recoup some money. not a great deal, but somethings better than nothing. yeah, those T6's won't be much better than the FMF's on a cub. but, there's nothing wrong with running them until you can afford to get what you want.

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you won't be saving that much since you have to get the stock crank welded or replaced anyways.

 

Just do the 4 mil for mroe torque, which is what you will lose when you switch to a tripple exhaust port cub.

 

FMF Fattys > T6's on a ported bike.

Edited by Justintoxicated
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Chuck, what kinda port did you have b-4 the cub... what kinda power differance (though some of it is from the crank?) between the 2?

i had a trinity 420 big bore kit with their stage IV porting. stock stroke crank, 70mm big bore sleeves and pistons. i ran both setups with dual 35mm carbs, VF3's, and small bore in-frame shearers. the 420 BB was a good setup, it came on sooner and pulled hard. but, the 421 cub hits more violently in the mid range and pulls much harder on top. the power is in the cubs favor, even a stock stroke 68mm bore cub because of the port layout. you can get OEM jugs ported to turn good numbers, but it will cost you a bunch of money to have a good builder to do it. it will cost a lot more than the average port job. of course over all setup is key in a drag race.

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the cubs have poor lowend power anyways especially one that is actually drag ported and not some quick

cleanup port where they just knock down the high spots .i run a 358cub does it have great lowend ?...nope but on the pipe where im going to be riding it it wil l yank your arms off and will hang with a 4mill ,and although rare theres vids of 358s smoking 421 cubs ....chassy/tire setup and the bolt ons make all the difference i dont regret gettign a baby cub they can make big numbers just like a 421 can ...theres 358's turning 100 hp at the rear wheels it is not a good dune setup really ...but it would be ideal for flat drags .a 421 will make more torque and an awesome setup but a 358 can hit higher rpms and hit them with faster response . just depends on what your lookign for as far as power delivery .a 392 stock stroke would help get better lowend grunt over a 358 version .regardless what you decide youll want a hd clutch setup possibly a lockout ,gotta weld taht crank ..and the right pipes ,carbs and such or youll be choking it out and losing potential power

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the cubs have poor lowend power anyways especially one that is actually drag ported and not some quick

cleanup port where they just knock down the high spots .i run a 358cub does it have great lowend ?...nope but on the pipe where im going to be riding it it wil l yank your arms off and will hang with a 4mill ,and although rare theres vids of 358s smoking 421 cubs ....chassy/tire setup and the bolt ons make all the difference i dont regret gettign a baby cub they can make big numbers just like a 421 can ...theres 358's turning 100 hp at the rear wheels it is not a good dune setup really ...but it would be ideal for flat drags .a 421 will make more torque and an awesome setup but a 358 can hit higher rpms and hit them with faster response . just depends on what your lookign for as far as power delivery .a 392 stock stroke would help get better lowend grunt over a 358 version .regardless what you decide youll want a hd clutch setup possibly a lockout ,gotta weld taht crank ..and the right pipes ,carbs and such or youll be choking it out and losing potential power

I will DISAGREE with you!!!!! NOT all cubs are bad for low end power, Mines NOT lacking at all, and YES its drag ported.

I would also like to see a 358 smoke my 421........ NOT gonna happen.

The vids you speak of the cubs obviously didnt have the set up right.

There are plenty here who have seen my little 421 run, and spank 535`s. I would recomend a good 421 cub set up to anyone, they get the power to the ground better than most

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