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4mm or 10mm


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you can get the 10mm and run low compression and stock timing to mellow it out if its too much for you. I would go with the 10. 4mm is not that much bigger than stock and 400 bucks for 5% increase in power is not worth it to me. Really being that you are new to the sport you should just get your stock cylinders ported and see how you like that. Its not going to be as fast as a 200hp super bike but if you really wanted something like that you would have bought a cr500.

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who said i was new? :huh: anyway.. yea before i order this the first thing imma get its my suspension.. cause this 18 year old suspension system is killing my ass. XD should i go with elkas or works? cause im really diggin that new elka rear linkage system...

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who said i was new? :huh: anyway.. yea before i order this the first thing imma get its my suspension.. cause this 18 year old suspension system is killing my ass. XD should i go with elkas or works? cause im really diggin that new elka rear linkage system...

If you have a builder in mind you might want to contact them and see what they suggest would fit your needs. I have seen alot of 4mill cubs running strong in the dunes and on the trails in the dunes. I know there is alot of guys on here who ride there cubs with short swingers like you are talking about. But I wouldn't want to be on a 10 mill cub unless it had a +8 arm. Your body weight and frame setup is going to play a big factor. Since you are experienced with high horsepower bikes you understand that a smaller motor in a proper setup frame can out perform a big motor in a poor frame setup. And if you plan on running long fireroads on a 10 mill to be safe you might have to run a pump to keep from melting the top end down.

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uh.. wait.. i think everyones misunderstood something.. IM NOT GETTING A CUB. i know that cubs suck for fireroads/trails cause of the lightswitch effect... im going to have the oem cylinders ported and bored and im going to drop in a +10 crank.. and imma switch the swinger to a +4... also im very interested about what mallot1 said.. could you please explain this? ive never heard of this problem.. i have an oversize pwr radiator.. engine ice.. pro design mpeller. thats all in the cooling department besides a cool head... btw mallot thats a nice machine in your sig :thumbsup:

Edited by CRAZY-SHEE!
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uh.. wait.. i think everyones misunderstood something.. IM NOT GETTING A CUB. i know that cubs suck for fireroads/trails cause of the lightswitch effect... im going to have the oem cylinders ported and bored and im going to drop in a +10 crank.. and imma switch the swinger to a +4... also im very interested about what mallot1 said.. could you please explain this? ive never heard of this problem.. i have an oversize pwr radiator.. engine ice.. pro design mpeller. thats all in the cooling department besides a cool head... btw mallot thats a nice machine in your sig :thumbsup:

If you are talking about the melt down comment I thought you were looking into a cub. A cub likes fuel and on wide open runs down a fireroad you might have a issue on a big motor running the bowls dry. That is what I meant by melting down. Sorry for the confusion.

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uh.. wait.. i think everyones misunderstood something.. IM NOT GETTING A CUB. i know that cubs suck for fireroads/trails cause of the lightswitch effect... im going to have the oem cylinders ported and bored and im going to drop in a +10 crank.. and imma switch the swinger to a +4... also im very interested about what mallot1 said.. could you please explain this? ive never heard of this problem.. i have an oversize pwr radiator.. engine ice.. pro design mpeller. thats all in the cooling department besides a cool head... btw mallot thats a nice machine in your sig :thumbsup:

 

 

Well IMO a 10mm in stock cylinders is a waste of money there is so much work that has to be done to the stock cylinders. the have to have a new sleeve put in them then they have to be welded and the porting alone will set you back at lest 550. You could put a 7mm in stock cylinders just cutting the domes and more worth the money. just my 0.02

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I have a 7mm stock cylinders. Run a stock base gasket size and set your port timmings from there. You have to use a stock base gasket and run the piston out of the cylinder or your transfer port timmings will be way too high. Also you must run 795 pistons. Mine runs great. PM me if you need a great, cheap builder who can do a two week turn around time.

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Well IMO a 10mm in stock cylinders is a waste of money there is so much work that has to be done to the stock cylinders. the have to have a new sleeve put in them then they have to be welded and the porting alone will set you back at lest 550. You could put a 7mm in stock cylinders just cutting the domes and more worth the money. just my 0.02

I will agree with Mike here. I have run several different strokes with stock cylinders and it probably isn't worth the effort anymore. I do all the work myself and it still winds up costing alot of cash compared to a cub engine.

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I was going to build a 7mm stock cylinder but then I just went with a cub.I spent around 3500.I ONLY went with the cub because my builder says cubs are more reliable.Oh yeah im going to be trail riding it too.He says cubs run alot cooler becuase they hold more water?????Dont know how true that is I dont know much bout cubs.But he trail rides his big cubs all day long.NO tight stuff everything is wide-open

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