Shee very hard to start

[bansheeboy02]

I had the same problem with my 99 banshee. I still don't know what was wrong, but I know if i pulled the hose out that is hooked at the top of the gas tank and blew in it to pressurize the tank it would start right up. I know it sounds real weird, but it worked. Sold it right after that.

[IROOST1]

I had the same problem with my 99 banshee. I still don't know what was wrong, but I know if i pulled the hose out that is hooked at the top of the gas tank and blew in it to pressurize the tank it would start right up. I know it sounds real weird, but it worked. Sold it right after that.

 

mines a 99 too, i will try that right after i put some fresh race gas in it. I think the crap mobile pump fuel may be bad.

[dajogejr]

Your pilots are too big, especially on a stock port bike with an airbox, but i agree with you 100%..it should at least start...and should start pretty good cold with those big of pilots.

 

Just for the heck of it, put stock pilots back in the bike, set the air screws at 1 turn out each.

 

If it makes a HUGE difference, you need to work on your pilot/air screw settings. If it don't make a lick of difference, I'd be checking the electrical and possibly an air leak. However, it would run bad at higher RPMs with an air leak....

[Screaming Yellow Zonker]

how is your fuel flow? You have filters on the fuel shut off and if they get plugged than your fuel is restricted. just a thought.

[IROOST1]

It wont even start with the stock pilots. And there is no air leak, i am 100% sure. Also, i have clear fuel lines so i know for a fact, they fill up fine.

[dajogejr]

1Roost, I don't know how to type this without sounding like a smart ass....so, please don't take it that way...

 

How do you know it doesn't have an air leak? Did you actually do a leak down test?

I'm very confident in my build skills/techniques, but...my brand new out of the box cub leaked like a screen door in the wind...and I did everything 100% correct. An uneven surface won't seal, no matter how careful you are and how well you torque it down.

 

I think something else is plugged in the pilot circuit ...maybe not the jet, but a passage somewhere.

It might not start well, or easy...but with stock pilots in, it should still start....

[IROOST1]

I have sealed everything, the manifolds are new, i have really good clamps on the carbs, i even rubbed sealant on all the surfaces where it might leak. Because an air leak would only be between the jug and reed, reed and manifold, manifold and carb, and around the boost bottle. I have ever so closely inspected it. thats why this starting problem is pissing me off. Hopefully tommorow i can drain the old gas and put the new gas in.

 

Also, for some reason, with the stock pilots the thing wont even start. But with the 30's it will, just takes 30 kicks.

[dajogejr]

There are more places it can and will leak...like the crank seals.

You really need to do a leak down test.

if it's sucking that much air, it really doesn't matter what jet you put in.

You also forgot the base gasket. It can leak there as well.

[Bansh-eman]

I have sealed everything, the manifolds are new, i have really good clamps on the carbs, i even rubbed sealant on all the surfaces where it might leak. Because an air leak would only be between the jug and reed, reed and manifold, manifold and carb, and around the boost bottle. I have ever so closely inspected it. thats why this starting problem is pissing me off. Hopefully tommorow i can drain the old gas and put the new gas in.

 

Also, for some reason, with the stock pilots the thing wont even start. But with the 30's it will, just takes 30 kicks.

you can leak at more then those palces... head, base gasket, crank seals and the surfaces you said... hell if you split the cses and didnt seal them well you could potentaily have a leak there although its pretty unlikley

[IROOST1]

I was meticulous when i rebuilt the motor, has all new seals, i have the jugs nice and tight. It could be possible but probably not. And the last time i had the carbs off, i put my hand over both manifolds while kicking it and it sucked real good.

[dajogejr]

Buddy...I am trying to help you.

 

I put a brand new 4 mil cub together from scratch. I was METICULOUS about how I put it together, TWICE....

It still had an air leak.

 

Mine had a casting flaw...top and bottom of the cylinder due to the sand blasting Millenium does to the cubs after they're nikasiled....

 

Unless your eyes are better than a mic, you're not going to see a few thousands of an inch or so of gap....anywhere.

 

I know what you're saying, trust me... A buddy of mine came over the second time I put my cub together and he watched me, step by step, put it all together. It still ran like absolute shit....

 

We both scratched our head in amazment...until my buddy put my cylinder on a sanding block then it became perfectly clear the problem.

 

This was a brand new, out of the box cub....

 

I'm not 100% sure you have an air leak, but you can't be 100% sure you don't until you test it.

[David Keith]

Listen to dajogejr. He's onto your problem. Just get the items needed to do a leak-test & the problem will be revealed. I had one leaking last year between the cases. All things visible to the naked eye were fine. Only the leak-test showed the problem. Nothing else would have showed me the problem.

[IROOST1]

What do i need to do for the leakdown test?????????????????????????????????

 

The motor was running until a manifold cracked and sucked in sand.

[David Keith]

What do i need to do for the leakdown test?????????????????????????????????

 

The motor was running until a manifold cracked and sucked in sand.

This is what I use:

(2) 1-3/8 inch diameter expansion plus (rubber) to seal off the exhaust ports

(2) 1.380 diameter x 0.75 wide aluminum plugs to fit into carb. adapters

One of these is solid & the other has an 1/8th inch NPT threaded hole. This has a pipe nipple with a tee fitting attached. One end has a 0 to 15 psi gauge & the other has an 1/8" ball style on-off valve. It has a quick disconnect fitting attached. Then I only fill the air tank to six psi. Connect it & let air in.

 

You have to be very careful to only allow 6 psi air pressue into your engine. Then close the ball valve. If it maintains six psi pressure for three minutes, its okay. But if it looses pressure, you have to trace the leak.

 

Everybody uses different ways to accomplish the same thing. Other ways might work, but this way is proven.

[IROOST1]

This is what I use:

(2) 1-3/8 inch diameter expansion plus (rubber) to seal off the exhaust ports

(2) 1.380 diameter x 0.75 wide aluminum plugs to fit into carb. adapters

One of these is solid & the other has an 1/8th inch NPT threaded hole. This has a pipe nipple with a tee fitting attached. One end has a 0 to 15 psi gauge & the other has an 1/8" ball style on-off valve. It has a quick disconnect fitting attached. Then I only fill the air tank to six psi. Connect it & let air in.

 

You have to be very careful to only allow 6 psi air pressue into your engine. Then close the ball valve. If it maintains six psi pressure for three minutes, its okay. But if it looses pressure, you have to trace the leak.

 

Everybody uses different ways to accomplish the same thing. Other ways might work, but this way is proven.

 

that sounds like a project. so i just need to somehow seal off the intake and exhaust and get six psi into the motor. Could i use a compression tester to check the six psi?

 

i was out draining the old gas and filling with new gas mixed 40:1 with amsoil interceptor. It still took 30 kicks to get it started, full choke and 1 spin out on the air screw(remember, 30 pilots). But once its hot, it starts like nothing to it and idles perfect. ANY MORE SUGGESTIONS ANYONE BEFORE I PULL THE THING APART TO DO THE LEAKDOWN TEST????