notatallhappy Posted March 30, 2007 Report Posted March 30, 2007 What is involved in building a 10mm stroker cub with 68mm bores and how reliable will the engine be Quote
dajogejr Posted March 30, 2007 Report Posted March 30, 2007 Call a builder, here's a quick run down. Head, coolhead or stock, cut to run big bore pistons. 68mm blaster pistons. 10 mil cub casting/cylinder 10 mil stroker crank cases trenched so the crank rod journals don't rub That's the necessities....here are the recommended. Override trans, dunable or standard. Lockout clutch (a must pushing 110 to 125HP) Big Bore Pipes Larger carbs, 35 to 41mm Longer Swinger extended chain That's a basic list... A stock motor pushes 35 HP, give or take. that motor will make roughly 4 times that. How reliable it is depends on how well it's put together and how well it's maintained. Bottom line is is a drag engine....so...there are no real guarantees...period! Quote
Animalman294 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Posted March 30, 2007 Well stated Dave, plus the bottom line is what you are ultimately going to do with the bike and how much money you want to spend. Everything on a 7 or 10 mill has to be changed because of the design of the motor, which is one of the reasons for designing the cub, because it uses a majority of the parts that you already have....................... Good luck with your decision. Quote
locogato11283 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Posted March 30, 2007 ive had my 10mm cub for over a year now. its been reliable as fuck and runs hard..ive never had any issues with it. they are pretty expesive to build from scratch. what you gonna use it for? a 4mm cub really has plenty of power for most applications.. noss head 21 cc domes 39mm pwk vf3 straight cut gears 2-4 duneable override rocket pipes lockup Quote
2bzy2p Posted March 31, 2007 Report Posted March 31, 2007 Call a builder, here's a quick run down. Head, coolhead or stock, cut to run big bore pistons. 68mm blaster pistons. 10 mil cub casting/cylinder 10 mil stroker crank cases trenched so the crank rod journals don't rub That's the necessities....here are the recommended. Override trans, dunable or standard. Lockout clutch (a must pushing 110 to 125HP) Big Bore Pipes Larger carbs, 35 to 41mm Longer Swinger extended chain That's a basic list... A stock motor pushes 35 HP, give or take. that motor will make roughly 4 times that. How reliable it is depends on how well it's put together and how well it's maintained. Bottom line is is a drag engine....so...there are no real guarantees...period! pretty much nailed it there!! Quote
notatallhappy Posted March 31, 2007 Author Report Posted March 31, 2007 (edited) I will be using the motor mostly for drag racing and a little dunning. Ihave a cool head and mild drag port now, and would like to see a night and day difference with the new motor. I was also looking at a plus 4 but a lot of people are running them around here, and i wanted a bit more power. whats the money difference between the 10 and the 4. I just ordered 35mm carbs ( used ) supposedly air strikers but we will see. I also ordered all the parts to build a swingarm, as i am a pretty good fabricator and have a dynasty tig welder at home at my disposal. i was wondering how long to make the swinger. Edited March 31, 2007 by notatallhappy Quote
locogato11283 Posted March 31, 2007 Report Posted March 31, 2007 10mm are a lot more money.. you have to have the cases trenched. the crank is about 900 bucks. you really need straight cuts to harness all that power.. so right there youre talkin about 800 more bucks easy. you HAVE to run a lockup. and if youre drag racing youlll need an override.. so theres another 600 or so.. theres quite a bit of price difference in the 4mm and 10mm.. Quote
dajogejr Posted March 31, 2007 Report Posted March 31, 2007 Actually...there's a guy coming out with 10 mil forged cranks for not much more than a 4 mil....about 550 was the price I heard. I'll have to post it up when I find it... I don't think straight cuts help make more power or not (I've seen claims of 2-3 HP...) but they do relieve side load on the crank itself....so, I'd call that a longevity/insurance factor. Pipes are a little more...and once you go cub, IMO...a lockup and override are mandatory in my book. Plus...the cub cylinder 10 mil castings themselves are a little more than the 4 mil. The price gas used to be pretty big..however, that's starting to change. Quote
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