Help with Electrical

[moneybags]

When my flywheel went out. I could not hear anything broke inside. Outher people can hear it but not me. Careful dont hit your self wile shaking the flywheel close to your head. :: :biggrin:

 

I hope you get your Banshee running soon. I just got off a bad spark problem myself. I know how it filln after 7 weeks. :sweat: You said since christmas. :shoothead: Man that has got to hurt. Mine turned out to be a flywheel that was crap. :turned:

[magunit420]

When my flywheel went out. I could not hear anything broke inside. Outher people can hear it but not me. Careful dont hit your self wile shaking the flywheel close to your head. :: :biggrin:

 

I hope you get your Banshee running soon. I just got off a bad spark problem myself. I know how it filln after 7 weeks. :sweat: You said since christmas. :shoothead: Man that has got to hurt. Mine turned out to be a flywheel that was crap. :turned:

yeah it dam well could be my fly wheel....so i guess im gonna have to buckle down to get one and yes it hurts as bad as my broken leg

[Snopczynski]

As far as I know, the brake light circuit should be tied into the yellow wire coming out of the case. It should branch off and run to the switch, then to the brake light. I would think this green wire is off the e-brake switch, the bike wont go over an idle if the ebrake is pulled (via green wire activation). I need to check a diagram to be sure, but all the lighting circuits should not be tied into the cdi at all.

[Bansh-eman]

on my 2000 the brake light come off the light switch blue... same thing snop was saying just differant color...

[magunit420]

on my 2000 the brake light come off the light switch blue... same thing snop was saying just differant

so iit should spark no matter if the brake light wire or ebrake wire is connected or not?

[sleeper06]

sorry to sound like a dick, I feel your pain/frustration. Like I said I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the harness. Im an electrician so I had some spare wire around Imade temporary harness, bypassing all shit you dont need and the bike fired rite away. You have the manual so try atemp harness. Its hard to say with out seeing it

[LiftdT4R]

Damn, sorry to hear your still having problems. Sounds like you have one BIG mess over there.

 

First off, do you have a Clymer? If so, take a look at the electrical diagrams in the back. It will tell you what switches on the bike are normally open(the circuit must be incomplete to run) and which switches are normally closed(circuit must be complete to run).

 

Doube check, but I think the only switch that is N.C. is the key switch, every other switch on the bke actually breaks the circuit to make a spark, and then if the circuit is complete, there will be no spark, for example, just unplugging your TORS(when everything else works) ensures that there will be a spark because that cicuit is broken.

 

My guess is that you have a problem in your wiring somewhere. But you should alsotest the Stator and make sure it meets the Specs in Clymers. You should also make sure the pickup coil is good and gapped correctly, again in Clymers.

 

The flywheel usually doesn't go bad unless you dropped it or hit it really hard, because it will loose it's magnetic properties.

 

When I had electrical headaches with my bike, I stripped EVERYTHING electrical off of my bike, looked over it all, cleaned it up(took out unnessecary shit like the TORS, and wrapped it all back up. Turns out I had a big clump of shit in my TORS plug which made the circuit think it was complete and the bike would not spark.

 

If your anywhere near NJ hit me up, I have a clean wiring harness off an 01 I'd let you borrow to see if that was your problem.

[magunit420]

Damn, sorry to hear your still having problems. Sounds like you have one BIG mess over there.

 

First off, do you have a Clymer? If so, take a look at the electrical diagrams in the back. It will tell you what switches on the bike are normally open(the circuit must be incomplete to run) and which switches are normally closed(circuit must be complete to run).

 

Doube check, but I think the only switch that is N.C. is the key switch, every other switch on the bke actually breaks the circuit to make a spark, and then if the circuit is complete, there will be no spark, for example, just unplugging your TORS(when everything else works) ensures that there will be a spark because that cicuit is broken.

 

My guess is that you have a problem in your wiring somewhere. But you should alsotest the Stator and make sure it meets the Specs in Clymers. You should also make sure the pickup coil is good and gapped correctly, again in Clymers.

 

The flywheel usually doesn't go bad unless you dropped it or hit it really hard, because it will loose it's magnetic properties.

 

When I had electrical headaches with my bike, I stripped EVERYTHING electrical off of my bike, looked over it all, cleaned it up(took out unnessecary shit like the TORS, and wrapped it all back up. Turns out I had a big clump of shit in my TORS plug which made the circuit think it was complete and the bike would not spark.

 

If your anywhere near NJ hit me up, I have a clean wiring harness off an 01 I'd let you borrow to see if that was your problem.

i did test the stator and it was within the spec in my clymers......when i bought then bike the kill switch didnt work just the key....and the light switch worked.....so someone did something to the kill switch ill have to take a look at it.....the tors and the removal kit on them so i dont think that is the problem...im just gonna have to strip my harness and ill look over the hole thing again and if i dont see anything wrong ill j ust make me a new harness and heat shrink and make it nice and pretty...too bad i live in northern california in BFE cause it would be a hell of a lot easier if i had someone else with a bansheei could`ve had this problem solved already but i dont no anyone.....i just moved to susanville like 50 miles north of reno....i mean everything on the bike besides the harness is in really good shape well the harness looks good too but hard to tell untill i take it off and strip it downi just hope i get this bull shit fixed by easter because i want to go to sand mountain and chase the bunny

[Bansh-eman]

yea it will still spark... it just wont rev... with the ebrake pulled you can start it but when you hit the gas it will just bog out...

 

to remove the ebrake you just have to unplug it at the cap... if you still got yours on unplug it and see what happens...

[LiftdT4R]

i did test the stator and it was within the spec in my clymers......when i bought then bike the kill switch didnt work just the key....and the light switch worked.....so someone did something to the kill switch ill have to take a look at it.....the tors and the removal kit on them so i dont think that is the problem...im just gonna have to strip my harness and ill look over the hole thing again and if i dont see anything wrong ill j ust make me a new harness and heat shrink and make it nice and pretty...too bad i live in northern california in BFE cause it would be a hell of a lot easier if i had someone else with a bansheei could`ve had this problem solved already but i dont no anyone.....i just moved to susanville like 50 miles north of reno....i mean everything on the bike besides the harness is in really good shape well the harness looks good too but hard to tell untill i take it off and strip it downi just hope i get this bull shit fixed by easter because i want to go to sand mountain and chase the bunny

Yeah, I'm willing to bet that it is just a simple wiring problem, 95% of electrical problems I have had are in the wiring harness somewhere. Either someone fucked around with the wiring that had the bike before you, or a wire melted, something like that.

 

Also, I forgot, but check your ground. It should be a short pigtail coming off the CDI that gets mounted to the frame underneath the voltage reg. I had a whole bunch of rust build up around it, and the ground was shitty so nothing worked. Just another possible place. Good luck! :beer:

[Snopczynski]

Common problems with kill switches are the small plastic piece inside where the contacts are mounted. They come loose and the switch wont work.

[magunit420]

Common problems with kill switches are the small plastic piece inside where the contacts are mounted. They come loose and the switch wont work.

i finally took my harness out and stripped it down....and jeeze i found where it spliced from the stator into the main harness it was moist and sand and shit threwout the harness...so im guessing this might be my problem...i stripped all the tape off and everything and going to go back threw and redo everything and give it a shot....im gonna put it all back together and shrink wrap it up i might as well get a new voltage reg too and i really hope this works im sayin my prayers ANYONe from reno area willing to help a fellow shee owner out if this doesnt work?

[HotCarl]

My vote is flywheel. I've taken apart working harneses and they too were moist anf full of sand. When you shake the flywheel it is supper quite and almost sounds like sand. I know you can pick one up pretty sheap on ebay.

 

 

I'll be up your way in about a month, but I hope you get it running before then.

[VIPES]

The "green/yellow stripe" wire should be part of the e-brake and was part of a white plug with a black(ground wire). I eliminated the e-brake entirely. I have a 2003 and saw that the CDI had five wires coming out of it too! The green/yellow stripe was the fifth wire, so I did my best to clip it and tape it up so as to not cause a short. BTW, my brake light was blue wire.